Grab rail replacement

  • 12 Aug 2012 13:51
    Reply # 1044878 on 1044186
    Deleted user

    Thanks Anthony

    Looks like both gallows and struts are made of 1" tubes. Certainly stronger than the bimini style folding design with grub screws. I'll keep your point about not having the struts facing aft in mind too.

    Luckily haven't come round to insulating the cabin trunk yet, making through bolting with backing pads easier!


  • 12 Aug 2012 12:23
    Reply # 1044853 on 1044186

    Nothing very sophisticated about the boom gallows.  It's just a couple of vertical s/s tubes, with forks at the top to hold the Iroko crossbar.  Each upright has a tubular strut on the forward side for rigidity.  The tops of the struts are flattened and bolted to the uprights, and both uprights and struts are welded to pieces of flat s/s bar at their feet, which are bolted to the coachroof.

    It was fortunate that the struts are on the forward side of the uprights, where they help to resist the compression of the heavy webbing jackstays, which are lashed on with Dyneema.  Incidentally, I don't think I have laid a finger on the Iroko hand-holds on the cabin top since re-siting the jackstays.
  • 11 Aug 2012 22:53
    Reply # 1044459 on 1044186
    Deleted user

    Hi David

    Actually I did think of Iroko, you can't get "real" teak nowadays without paying through the nose it seems! Would prefer to do away with them altogether though. Thanks for the very helpful input indeed!

    Anthony, could you shed some more light on the construction details of your boom gallows? They look almost exactly like the one I was thinking of, apart from the support leading aft.

    I'm not terribly good at drawing plans, at least not in a way acceptable to an engineer!

  • 11 Aug 2012 21:13
    Reply # 1044400 on 1044186
    I use the same idea as Anthony, but with 10mm braidline. Strong eyebolts or eyeplates near the mast, and near the hatch, a spliced eye or bowline each end, and a lashing of several turns of good 3mm line at one end to tighten it up, and you have something to hold onto and clip onto.
    But if you want to renew the wood, look for Iroko (poor man's teak), or one of the other oily or resinous far eastern hardwoods. I wouldn't use ash, which is not a durable wood.
    Last modified: 11 Aug 2012 21:17 | Anonymous member
  • 11 Aug 2012 19:50
    Reply # 1044368 on 1044186
    Hi Patric

    Zuleika Louise has very low guard rails, only really useful if you choose to go forward sitting down (which has been known...).  Previously, the jackstays used to run along the side decks, but have been moved so that they now run between the boom gallows and the block rail, as shown here.  You can clip-on to them, or just grab them to steady yourself when going forward, and they have proved to be really useful.  Cost was nothing, as I re-used the original webbing and you don't even have to paint them!

  • 11 Aug 2012 13:53
    Message # 1044186
    Deleted user

    Hi all!

    Been contemplating what to do about the rotten grab rails on my boat. The builder used some kind of soft wood and painted them, so the're thoroughly rotten. He did the same for the toe rails and rubbing strake but having them replaced would be prohibitively expensive. Options for the cabin top however seemto be: Teak, Ash or stainless. Again cost is an issue though, they're currently ~2 m long. Teak comes in at 40 - 50 GBP each, ash at half of that.

    On the other hand, being perishable, ash might be unsuitable if not meticulously oiled and maintained. Stainless would cost me around 100 quid. Then again: do I really need them?

    Obviously it's a good idea having something to hold on to when having to go forwards but they're only knee height. I'll be fitting a strong and sturdy s/s boom gallow on the cabin roof anyways. How about a short (hence cheap) teak handle, then said boom gallow?

    Last modified: 11 Aug 2012 13:57 | Deleted user
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