Anonymous wrote:

“Halibut Special”

Now I got the idea to try a fully fanned 3-panel JR for Halibut, essentially the top-section of the sails I usually draw. I have found that the top section of my sails are so efficient that they deserve to be tried alone on such a little nutshell. This will give a sail of half-decent sail area, which will reef well in two stages. The running lines will just be the sheet, halyard and lazyjacks.

The boom has been shortened to avoid sheet tangles, and the sheet goes to a boomkin long enough to sheet the reefed sail or bundle to the centreline.

The procedure of stowing the sail should sound like this:

• 1.      Let go the halyard to dump the sail into its lazyjacks.
• 2.      Haul on the running lazyjacks to raise the sail bundle and pin it to the mast. Longish batten parrels make this possible. Cleat the tail of the lazy j. at the mast.
• 3.      Bring the sheet inboard,  reeve it around the sail bundle and cleat it off on the mast.
• 4.      Unstep and lower the mast.
• 5.      The boomkin may be taken in at leisure.

With a little practice, this should be doable within 60 seconds, which is the maximum I would tolerate.
One may well row the boat with the mast erected and the sheet in place. When clear of the beech, the lazyjacks are cast off, the sail hoisted and then one is under way (.depending a bit of wind direction and choice of leeboard and rudder/steering oar...).

I kind of like this rig.

Arne

Hello, Arne.

I've been enthusiastically following this thread because it satisfies most of my more important requirements for a potential sailboat. I have a few questions, though, and a possible suggestion.

Bear with me; I've never sailed anything, and sailing craft are still a bit mysterious to me, so my thinking may be way off. Anyway ...

Regarding your point #2 above, it seems to me that the batten parrels would have to be absurdly long if the objective is to have them folded up parallel with the mast. My first inclination was to have one end of them detachable (an extra bit of work), but maybe you're not thinking of the whole package being a cylindrical roll (which would be nice). A narrow fan-fold, maybe? Also, would excessively long batten parrels give the sail assembly too much freedom of movement?

Then it seems to me that if you could arrange for the mast to fold over, at some point above the shear line, all the other rigging could be just tidied up a bit but otherwise left in place. This would be the ultimate selling point for me: at the end of an excursion, I could reef and fold up the sail, fold the mast down, hang a flag on the end of it and load it into the bed of my pickup and drive off; no separate parts to handle. This is why I use a plastic kayak: shove it in the truck, strap it down, and go. If it becomes too much work, I wouldn't do it, which is partly why I haven't yet built a sailboat or considered buying one.

Finally, in this particular configuration it makes me wonder if the boat would be underpowered. Its sail area is only 25+ square feet, and I know that PDRs typically carry over twice that. Maybe Halibut's hull shape makes up for that somewhat? I can't envision a way to substantially increase the sail area without doing something drastic, but I'd like to hear some thoughts on using a biplane rig.

Graeme wrote:

Would something like this, on Halibut or the mini-SIBLIM  be worth a try?

This is David Th's bilge runner (see HFJY34 thread)

It doesn't take all that much to get a dinghy to go to windward.

For a SibLim 2.3m, that is principally a rowing tender that's occasionally sailed - yes, that's worth considering.

For a SibLim 4m, that is principally a sailing boat for junkets and open boat cruising - I'm not so sure. It seems that chine runners work on boats of a certain type and with certain proportions - long, narrow and deep, with a rectangular midship section. David's are really mini bilge keels, which are a different thing and need to be designed differently. 

Would something like this, on Halibut or the mini-SIBLIM  be worth a try?

This is David Th's bilge runner (see HFJY34 thread)

It doesn't take all that much to get a dinghy to go to windward.

Deviding the JRA dinghy project into two steps.

Now it looks to me that the discussion around the 2.4m JRA dinghy has completed a full circle. I and others started with suggesting rowing-only tenders. I then added a dead simple downwind sail, but with no board or rudder planned for it. Then came the junk rig demand, and the 3-panel sail for Halibut was introduced. At the same time, the lines of Halibut were adjusted for better stability. After many words written around the bow-board, leeboards, fixed keel and, finally, the usefulness of a rig at all, we are now back on the rowing tender.

Here is what I will do:
Step One:
I will present the Halibut design with the cb. slot fitted from Day One. I will then suggest that you build it with the slot in (easier during building than retrofitting it), and then go rowing in it.

Step Two:
If the desire arises for sailing Halibut, the rig, rudder and bow-board can be constructed and fitted to complete the project.

Arne

PS 19.4.2021
I will complete the plans for Halibut in due course, but I will not bother with participating in the design competition. Spring is here, and it’s time to make my Ingeborg ready for sailing. I’ve received the first Covid vaccine shot, so I will rather focus on ‘real life’ again. Designing dinghies was well and fine during the lock-down, but is off less interest now. Besides, I am reluctant to compete with an untried boat.
I wish you good luck with your entries.

A.

(If it were lightly and nicely built, like Annie’s FanTan, I think I would rather carry it on my back like a turtle, which is easy and often done here.)

We're straying into "The Ideal Tender" territory here, rather than "JRA tender designed to sail under JR" territory. But yes, a dinghy that weighs the bare minimum is best carried coracle- or curragh-fashion, on the back. When I had a miniature curragh, 2.65m long x 1m beam, I could very easily swing it up onto my back by grasping the thole pins. A skin-on-frame boat makes a very satisfactory lightweight rowing or paddling tender, but perhaps not a sailing tender.