Dave Leet wrote:

Re double sheets: They really need.to be attached forward of the leach to  prevent them from tangling with the ends of the battens and the sheets on the other side. Double sheets are also quite useful offshore to allow rigging of preventers to help the sail stay out when the wind is light and there's a swell tossing the wind out of the sails. It also helps keeping the foresail out when the wind gets too far aft before you get dead downwind and need to lower it. See attached pictures.

Dave

Very interesting to see the lee sheets used as preventers.  I have often wondered if the hassle of extra sheets might be worth it for this reason.  I hate it when the sail is slamming around.  My only experience on a junk with double sheets though was unimpressive, as there was too much friction, and the lee sheets did not run out freely when the windward sheets were eased.  I think this may have had something to do with too many turning blocks on deck rather than the sheets themselves, which were just 3 span, six part systems, running through sisterblocks.  Every time a sheet or halyard passes through a turning block, the resistance seems to double, even with expensive blocks.  So ghe fewer the better! I spent some time with the new owners of the Colvin junk, Madame Wong, last year and they were having problems with adjusting their euphroes.  Had to get up onto the wheelhouse roof which was precarious.  Colvin based his rigs on the working junks of Southern China, where there were plenty of hands to work the rig.  If you can sort out your double sheets to run freely, I think the existing rig will be just fine.  And it is so pretty!

There are a couple of split battens in the main that are doubled up, so when I get down to bamboo country I will be harvesting some fresh pieces. That would be a good time to experiment with cutting some of the battens 

Rebuilding a functional rig is not in the budget, I would rather be sailing. However I am always experimenting  with new ideas. When I get back to the usa (land of cheap boat parts) I may try a few other ideas. 

Lynda and David Chidell had a copy of Hasler's Practical junk rig that I looked through. It was interesting enough that I bought a ebook copy on Amazon. I am getting some  ideas on the sheeting possibilities from it . I don't think I have enough blocks in my parts box to try anything major, but may be able to try one side of the main as an experiment with a few different methods. A river would be a.good place to play, but things need.to be right and strong before ocean work. 

Dave

Anonymous wrote:

Nomad's Top Gun sails are holding up remakably well so it may be quite a few more years before they are ready for replacement. 

Dave

This is a common luxury problem: A junk sail may well last for a generation. If you find that the performance of your boat is good enough, then end of discussion.

However, if you are not satisfied with her, you'd better do something about it now, rather than later. Time is running. One low-risk compromise could be to start with replacing the foresail only. At only 23sqm, it is a good little learning project. If you find that you don't like it, then you haven't invested that much. If you like it, you have now gained the skills to make the mainsail any time you like.

Arne

Nomad's Top Gun sails are holding up remakably well so it may be quite a few more years before they are ready for replacement. But less costly experiments with the rigging are definitely in the plans, now that I have sailed it enough to be aware of itsi few.shortcomings. Dealing with the euphroe when reefing and loss of control of the sail when raising and lowering it are two big problem areas.

I can see where having a straight leech would be different. For anyone contemplating end sheeting on an original rigged Gazelle, note that the main does hang over the stern a very little bit, so sheets needing an aft lead would need a.creative workaround.

Is it possible to do hinged battens with bamboo battens, maybe using a piece of pipe for the sleeve? I wasn't sure if the randomness of bamboo sizes would be a.problem in getting a consistent shape..

Dave

Dave,
I’m afraid I am not with you here. The deciding difference between the Colvin sails and the HM sail I have suggested (and used a lot), is that the leech of the HM sail is vertical (or better, leaning a bit aft). The sheet point at deck level should be aft of the boom’s end as well. This, combined with rigging the sails with the battens flush at the leech, should prevent sheet tangle, most of the time. I also lean on Davis Tyler’s practical experience with this on Tystie.

At some point, as one bears away onto a broad reach, the lee sheet can take over the load and thus avoid compression loads on the battens.

Arne

PS: It should be possible to hook a preventer onto the lee sheets on my suggested rig as well.

PPS: It's a free world. There is no law against trying one's preferred sheeting system, and then try the other if it fails. Failing is another word for gaining experience...