S2 6.7 Junk Rig Conversion

  • 26 Jun 2019 22:20
    Reply # 7672105 on 6872873

    I had a nice sheet of 1/2" marine plywood. Now I have a stack of five things. I thought I had a clear idea how to get the mast step done, so I just went for it. I stopped to take a look at the bigger picture after 5 layers. Something does not look right.

    Back at the computer I see that my stack of plywood does not look like Arne's mast step. The thing I have is a lot wider and still not as thick. It is so wide that I can't fit the biggest pieces through bow access in my boat. It is also so wide that I do not have enough plywood left. With the original plan I still need to make 3 more layers to finish the mast sole and 4 more layers for mast step (the collar section to hold the mast).

    I would like to determine how much surface area I need contacting the hull on the beveled edges of the mast step. I hope that I already have more than enough. If that is the case then I will cut off the aft end of each layer such that I have the required amount of surface area. Then with a little more positive thinking this will actually fit in the boat.

    Does anyone have a rule of thumb for how much hull contact is needed in this type of mast step?

    Scott.

    Update:

    After some searching I found the comment I remembered from Arne. It is on the caption of a photo here. He says, 'With a contact area of at least 1500cm2, that thing will stay put'.

    I think I will do some measuring and see how close I am to that number.

    2 files
    Last modified: 26 Jun 2019 23:38 | Anonymous member
  • 25 Jun 2019 18:16
    Reply # 7655525 on 6872873
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Scott,

    I don’t know how good that is, but it looks very much like the way I did it on Ingeborg (and on Johanna and Malena as well...). None of these mast steps has come loose. When thinking of how big the contact area between the mast sole and the hull is, I have no fear.

    Good luck!

    Arne


  • 24 Jun 2019 21:47
    Reply # 7642300 on 6872873

    I made a lot of dust. Much more than I expected. I hope this indicates some progress.

    I might have considered attaching a vacuum hose to the angle grinder some how if I knew how much dust I would be cleaning up later.

    I did not grind the entire mast step area down to translucent glass. I tried to take at least a small layer off everywhere. Any opinions after reviewing the photos would be welcome. I plan on wiping the area down again with towels and acetone just before I epoxy the yet-to-be-made plywood layers.

    The weather is reminding me why I like the inside 'control point' from PJR so much. It is raining and raining. I hope someday I will have a boat that is able to sail in the rain while I am inside dry and comfortable.

    Now I am waiting for dry weather so I can cut and shape plywood. Too messy to do in the garage.

    Scott

    2 files
    Last modified: 24 Jun 2019 22:06 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Jun 2019 22:26
    Reply # 7592849 on 6872873
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Scott,

    Ingeborg’s maststep actually wasn’t so heavy, after all, but if you want to shrinkyours to half the weight of it, it is enough to crimp all dimensions with 20%. The plywood I used was either 15 or16mm thick  -  I don’t remember now.

    Just make sure the mast will never jump out of the step, or else...

    Arne


    Last modified: 14 Jul 2019 21:26 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 21 Jun 2019 16:33
    Reply # 7592231 on 7589014
    Arne wrote:

    [...]

    PS: Check this: http://bit.ly/2sf2tsW

    Hi Arne,

    I have been studying your mast step and partners document for some months now. I have never considered any other way to build a mast step. My only doubt is if I should use the same total thickness on my S2 6.7 (998kg) as you did on your Folkboat (2150kg). I am not concerned about how much labor is involved. I am concerned about adding too much weight to the bow of my boat.

    In addition to the very helpful instructions I also enjoyed these comments:

    "With the sail finished (Jan. 2015), it was time to set to work on the hard bits."

    "to have a mast step come loose [...] would turn the big mast into the mother of all can openers. "

    When I was working on the sail it did not occur to me that the hard part was yet to come!

    Scott.

    Last modified: 21 Jun 2019 16:34 | Anonymous member
  • 20 Jun 2019 09:07
    Reply # 7589014 on 6872873
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Scott,

    this plywood maststep may not be the quickest to build, but it surely is strong, and you have the advantage of being able to move it a little on top of the base, to get the mast standing right. My present boat was afloat while I fitted the step, so the boat was only so and so level with me moving around on it.

    Four things may be of interest:

    ·         I rubbed the hull with a little angle grinder to make the epoxy stick as well as possible. (Edit: Wise from experience, I brought the vacuum cleaner on board with the angle grinder...)

    ·         I sealed the plywood thoroughly.

    ·         I made a drain notch in the mast step. Even with sealed plywood, I don’t want the mast to stand in a puddle of water. (so far the step has stayed bone dry, thanks to the mast coat).

    ·         I have later secured the mast from ever being able to jump out of the step.


    Arne

    PS: Check this: http://bit.ly/2sf2tsW

    Last modified: 24 Jun 2019 22:20 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 19 Jun 2019 22:34
    Reply # 7588409 on 7586679
    Deleted user
    Anonymous wrote:

    Phil, if you are following along I would appreciate your opinion on how thick and wide to make the mast step. As you may recall the displacement of your ComPac is close to the displacement of my S2 6.7

    Is 6" tall, total, too much? Is 2" for the collar too much or too little? 

    I think I had six beveled layers of 1/2 inch ply for the base, enough to to have good contact area on its bottom and the beveled edges. The upper section that held the mast is probably 2 inches thick.  Brenda B’s hull is flatter than some so the bevels may be flatter with slightly more surface and contact area for the epoxy, first well coated (plywood edges soak it up pretty well) then glued with thickend epoxy. I also glasssed top edge of the base to the hull.  If I get out to the boat tomorrow I’ll double check.

  • 18 Jun 2019 23:44
    Reply # 7586679 on 6872873

    Phil, if you are following along I would appreciate your opinion on how thick and wide to make the mast step. As you may recall the displacement of your ComPac is close to the displacement of my S2 6.7

    Is 6" tall, total, too much? Is 2" for the collar too much or too little? 

    Last modified: 19 Jun 2019 00:47 | Anonymous member
  • 16 Jun 2019 22:28
    Reply # 7582802 on 6872873

    Thank you for the responses. I ordered a water level. I will plan on leveling the boat on the trailer using the bottom of the bootstripe and then make a fore-aft and port-starboard 'level' line on a bulkhead or some other place.

    I was thinking I should sail the boat with the original rig at least once before taking the existing mast off. But it keeps on raining! I am not against sailing in the rain but trying to learn how to step a mast and launching a boat for the first time in the rain seems like it could cause problems.

    Summer is short. I think I may skip the sailing this summer and stick to working on the conversion.

    Scott.

    3 files
  • 12 Jun 2019 15:55
    Reply # 7574319 on 6872873
    Deleted user

    If the scum line is anywhere close to following the boot stripe, I'd use the bootstripe.  Manufactures generally try to get that right.  You're going to be changing the center of gravity on the boat by moving the mast, but then you'll probably futz with the trim once its in the water - to match the boot stripe.

    Once you've adjusted the stands to get the boat level athwartship and fore and aft using the water-in-a-clear-hose trick, you can make 2 level lines on 2 interior bulkheads: one fore and aft, one athwartship.  Every week or two, slap the level up against them to make sure the boat hasn't settled. Mine moves about an inch between the spring and summer.

    Last modified: 12 Jun 2019 15:59 | Deleted user
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