David wrote:

Scott wrote:

David can you tell me, please, is your advice on making carbon fiber tubes still "Don't do it" ?

It's more like "Don't Do It!" Yes, CFRP tubes are great, when made with the correct resin, tooling and methods, and with an autoclave to post-cure, but it's too hard to do all that reliably at home.

OK. I will try to get myself mentally prepared to make at least one more aluminum purchase. After so many years of saving money 'for the boat' I find it hard to spend money, even on the boat.

I spent part of the weekend gluing fir plywood where the balsa core was before. I hope to have the structural part of the mast partners done sometime before the end of the month.

Last week I think I made progress on getting a tapered pole ordered. The lead time ended up being a little less than I expected.

I still need to get some battens and a yard somehow. I started watching videos on how to lay up carbon fiber and epoxy tubing at home. After that I found David's topic about his efforts to make a CFRP battens.

David can you tell me, please, is your advice on making carbon fiber tubes still "Don't do it" ?

When I built Tystie, some of the tube work was too big for the anodising bath, so it got powder coated. Over several years, the coating started bubbling where the water had got behind it (the anodised tubes stayed good).

Weaverbird has an untreated mast, and it is staying good above deck. A natural oxide film forms in the presence of dry air and the absence of any electrolysis; anodising is simply a speeded-up, controlled version of this oxidation process. Below decks in the forepeak, there is some salting on the surface due to a damper, stiller atmosphere, but I don't think it's doing any harm. For a better cosmetic appearance in an inhabited forecabin, it could be painted with etch primer then enamel.

Sailing on a fresh water lake, there's little or nor reason to paint or anodise an aluminium mast.

I have been procrastinating. Some more important things needed attention but honestly I think I have been lazy, too.

Anyway it seems I need to order an alloy lamp post right now so that the 12 week lead time does not use up ALL of the summer.

Does anyone have an opinion on white powder coat vs unfinished aluminum alloy?

I think the powder coat would be good initially. I would expect less friction and fewer stains from oxidation. But in the long run I have no idea how I would refinish a powder coated mast once the original finish is warn through. 

Annie wrote:

You might find a multitool is a good choice for this job, Scott.

Go for the oak, Scott, as long as it is seasoned.  (a) we are just talking trim here (b) John Guzzwell recommends it in his book (c) Tystie is trimmed out in oak and has had no problems with bits falling off. It supposedly has a reputation for not gluing that well: so has teak.  I've never (touch wood!) had a problem with either. 

To ease your mind, just be more than usually scrupulous in ensuring that both surfaces are well wetted out first and maybe even wipe it with solvent.  If you look here, you will find more about gluing it from the Gougeon Bros.  But don't forget, you are not using it structurally.

Annie,

I am working on borrowing a multi tool or maybe buying one if I have to.

The Epoxy Works Article that you shared was the same one that convinced me not to use oak and epoxy for structural work on the deck core.

This is from the article:

" [..] two factors, dimensional instability and high density, interact to result in the unpredictable performance of an adhesive bond. The grain strength of the oak is about the same as the adhesive strength of the WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin-based epoxy. When the oak changes dimensionally, there is a “tug-of-war” between the strength of the wood and the strength of the epoxy bond. Sometimes the epoxy holds and sometimes it doesn’t. [The flexibility of G/flex epoxies is what allows them to maintain their bond with oak—Ed.]"

Scott.