S2 6.7 Junk Rig Conversion

  • 23 Oct 2020 07:08
    Reply # 9321009 on 9319328
    Anonymous wrote:
    Kris wrote:

    Scott,

    I scroll back thru the conversation to the info regarding a lamp post. Does your post has an inspection door in the lower part? What you going to do about, if so? This is my case and I am not certain how to deal with it.

    Hi Kris,

    Your profile says that you are building one of Jerome Delaunay's designs. I like how his boats look as drawings. I hope you will share some build photos. The center cockpit scow with two masts looks especially interesting.

    The short answer is that my lamp post does not have an inspection door.

    The long answer is that I was able to avoid the issue with the inspection door after some persistence. The first two vendors I contacted stopped talking to me as soon as they found out I wanted to use the the lamp pole as a mast.

    I tried to keep quiet about my intentions with a third vendor but eventually he told me that they can't sell a lamp pole without an inspection door. The inspection door is required by the NEC (National Electrical Code). I imagine that there are similar regulations in the EU.

    However this third vendor was very happy to sell me a pole without a hand hole after I told him that I would not be using it for a lighting application. I had to sign several documents but in the end I was able to purchase a plain tapered 6063-T6 pole without any holes.

    I remember seeing photos from at least one JRA member who purchased the pole longer than necessary and then cut off the lower section with the inspection door. If I remember correctly the mast on Ming Ming II was made this way.

    Please understand that I have not yet built a functional junk rig with this pole. The most I have done is get the mast vertical in the tabernacle. I am not any sort of an expert or authority. With that said I think you have a few options.


    1. If the pole is long enough cut off the lower section

    2. Cut off the lower section and extend the upper section with wood or an alloy tube

    2. Get a different pole

    3. Add a sleeve inside the lower section or on the outside of the lower section

    4. Determine, somehow, that the pole is strong enough with inspection door installed normally.

    Thank you Scott for sharing the story. Lucky you and persistent enough. I went exactly thru the same, ending up in a whole-seller warehouse keeping mouth shut. Since I planned to use the tabernacle anyway, I think will make it higher then 10% and burry the part with a door, which is about a 1 meter. 

    Regarding my new "ANNA LUCJA 2" i post frequently on my FB account ( https://www.facebook.com/kris.matuszewski.1 ), but of course along with other stuff.

    Yeah, I must do better with the CARAVELINA topic here in the JRA site 

    https://www.junkrigassociation.org/technical_forum/7917477#7926500

    I  am very interested to watch your progress with the conversion and learn a lots from all the discussions. I am waiting for reports from the sea trials. 

    Good luck

    Kris



  • 22 Oct 2020 21:49
    Reply # 9320366 on 9320170
    David Th wrote:

    Possibly slight overkill with the diameter but you should have pretty bullet-proof battens. You could probably use the same tube as your boom. The tube should also be very light with that wall thickness, which makes a difference when it is time to hoist the sail.

    I would like to go to the warehouse like you did and get a feel for how light or heavy, stiff or bendy each option is in person. I have not found anything around here.

    I ordered a sample pack of the fiberglass tube from MGS before placing the big order. Looking at the 2 foot long samples I thought it would be fine. It was very different when the full size tubes arrived.

    Since I have to replace the batten pockets anyway I am aiming for 'too big' on this second try.

  • 22 Oct 2020 19:53
    Reply # 9320170 on 9319603
    Deleted user
    Scott wrote:

    I ordered some more tube with this spec:

    'Aluminum 1-3/4 OD X .065 WALL(1.620 ID) 6061-T6 EXT STRUCTURAL TUBE P1'

    I hope I can make these work and also find a purpose for the floppy fiberglass tube. It is getting difficult to explain why I need all these long pieces hidden around the house and garage.

    Possibly slight overkill with the diameter but you should have pretty bullet-proof battens. You could probably use the same tube as your boom. The tube should also be very light with that wall thickness, which makes a difference when it is time to hoist the sail.
  • 22 Oct 2020 16:37
    Reply # 9319603 on 9317726
    David wrote:
    Er, no, perhaps he isn't, not having used aluminium battens for more years than he cares to remember. A more recent user can probably speak with more authority, but purely as a guess - 1.25" x 0.065" 6061T6, at least for the upper sheeted battens, even if the lower ones can be 1" x 0.065"?

    I ordered some more tube with this spec:

    'Aluminum 1-3/4 OD X .065 WALL(1.620 ID) 6061-T6 EXT STRUCTURAL TUBE P1'

    I hope I can make these work and also find a purpose for the floppy fiberglass tube. It is getting difficult to explain why I need all these long pieces hidden around the house and garage.

  • 22 Oct 2020 14:43
    Reply # 9319328 on 9318798
    Kris wrote:

    Scott,

    I scroll back thru the conversation to the info regarding a lamp post. Does your post has an inspection door in the lower part? What you going to do about, if so? This is my case and I am not certain how to deal with it.

    Hi Kris,

    Your profile says that you are building one of Jerome Delaunay's designs. I like how his boats look as drawings. I hope you will share some build photos. The center cockpit scow with two masts looks especially interesting.

    The short answer is that my lamp post does not have an inspection door.

    The long answer is that I was able to avoid the issue with the inspection door after some persistence. The first two vendors I contacted stopped talking to me as soon as they found out I wanted to use the the lamp pole as a mast.

    I tried to keep quiet about my intentions with a third vendor but eventually he told me that they can't sell a lamp pole without an inspection door. The inspection door is required by the NEC (National Electrical Code). I imagine that there are similar regulations in the EU.

    However this third vendor was very happy to sell me a pole without a hand hole after I told him that I would not be using it for a lighting application. I had to sign several documents but in the end I was able to purchase a plain tapered 6063-T6 pole without any holes.

    I remember seeing photos from at least one JRA member who purchased the pole longer than necessary and then cut off the lower section with the inspection door. If I remember correctly the mast on Ming Ming II was made this way.

    Please understand that I have not yet built a functional junk rig with this pole. The most I have done is get the mast vertical in the tabernacle. I am not any sort of an expert or authority. With that said I think you have a few options.


    1. If the pole is long enough cut off the lower section

    2. Cut off the lower section and extend the upper section with wood or an alloy tube

    2. Get a different pole

    3. Add a sleeve inside the lower section or on the outside of the lower section

    4. Determine, somehow, that the pole is strong enough with inspection door installed normally.

    1 file
    Last modified: 22 Oct 2020 14:56 | Anonymous member
  • 22 Oct 2020 06:45
    Reply # 9318798 on 6872873

    Scott,

    I scroll back thru the conversation to the info regarding a lamp post. Does your post has an inspection door in the lower part? What you going to do about, if so? This is my case and I am not certain how to deal with it.

    1 file
  • 21 Oct 2020 20:07
    Reply # 9317726 on 9317597
    David Th wrote:
    Scott wrote:

    Looking back at my notes this is what I picked out for aluminum battens after some discussion here on the forums and over email.

    1" OD X .065" WALL (.870" ID) 6061-T6

    This is 25.4mm Outside Diameter and 22.1mm Inside Diameter. It is only a hair bigger than the smallest, 25mm, that you recommended.

    Do you think it is reasonable to expect these dimensions to be stiff and strong enough?

    Well, I am no expert on this, David Tyler is the man for that. 

    Er, no, perhaps he isn't, not having used aluminium battens for more years than he cares to remember. A more recent user can probably speak with more authority, but purely as a guess - 1.25" x 0.065" 6061T6, at least for the upper sheeted battens, even if the lower ones can be 1" x 0.065"?
  • 21 Oct 2020 19:27
    Reply # 9317597 on 9317524
    Deleted user
    Scott wrote:

    Looking back at my notes this is what I picked out for aluminum battens after some discussion here on the forums and over email.

    1" OD X .065" WALL (.870" ID) 6061-T6

    This is 25.4mm Outside Diameter and 22.1mm Inside Diameter. It is only a hair bigger than the smallest, 25mm, that you recommended.

    Do you think it is reasonable to expect these dimensions to be stiff and strong enough?

    Well, I am no expert on this, David Tyler is the man for that. But the way I tested the stiffness of my battens was to pull a length of the tube out of the rack at the tube suppliers warehouse, supported each end of the tube, and put a lot of weight on the middle of the tube to see how much the tube flexed. When I could only get minimal deflection I knew I had found the right tube - it was a very scientific approach!

    Bearing in mind that your sail will be quite small in area the 25 to 30 mm diameter seems about right to me. The larger the diameter the stiffer the batten. You also need to think about how you are going to finish the ends of the battens, I put timber inserts into the end of mine for attachment to the luff and leech of the sail.

  • 21 Oct 2020 18:39
    Reply # 9317524 on 9316318
    David Th wrote:The alloy battens were the top three on the sail and were 6.5 meters in length and from memory about 65 mm diameter and 1.5 mm wall thickness. To lift them individually there was no flexing, and with the sail up and working there was very little deflection, not really noticeable at all. I know the recommendation is to use T6 alloy which would allow smaller diameter but my T5 battens were fine. I imagine for your sail you would only need 25 to 30 mm diameter battens, but others might be able to advise better on sizing.

    Thanks for the response, David.

    In hindsight it seems like going with aluminum would have been easier to get right, given what I have learned about fiber orientation in pultruded tubes. Not all fiberglass is the same!

    Looking back at my notes this is what I picked out for aluminum battens after some discussion here on the forums and over email.

    1" OD X .065" WALL (.870" ID) 6061-T6

    This is 25.4mm Outside Diameter and 22.1mm Inside Diameter. It is only a hair bigger than the smallest, 25mm, that you recommended.

    Do you think it is reasonable to expect these dimensions to be stiff and strong enough?

  • 21 Oct 2020 16:40
    Reply # 9317253 on 9316544
    David :

    This reminds me of when Annie was looking for battens for Fanshi, and the pultruded stock tubing readily available in NZ was found to be too floppy to support its own weight, like this USA stock. This must have been made with random directional fibres as well.

    David,

    Do you think you could stop by my place and align all these randomly oriented fibers in one direction for me? Seems easy enough.

    Your preferred supplier has excellent pricing. I would really like to find something like the '30mm (OD) x 27mm (ID) GRP Tube - 6m Length' around the £74.59 price advertised. I assume google is converting that to $98.03 properly.

    The closest I can find is $190.00 for a 2.4 meter length here.

    I think maybe 'Filament Wound' is the more common term in the US for the 'Pullwound' construction described here.

    Last modified: 21 Oct 2020 18:47 | Anonymous member
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