.

S2 6.7 Junk Rig Conversion

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  • 18 Jan 2026 14:32
    Reply # 13586536 on 6872873
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Bonjour
    It is normal to have the boat "on the nose" at mooring  the bow supports the wait if the mooring and their is no crew in the cockpit.
    If you want to move the CG backwards, to reduce the wait at the mast level will be a hard job with a minimal effect. The mast remains near of the CG.
    If the anchor and possibly the associated chain (I hate chain but it’s an other subject !) are still at the bow, if would be much more efficient to move them backward, or around the centre of gravity to limit the longitudinal inertia (as on racing boats) or toward the rear of the boat in a stern lazaret to have a maximum effect. 
    It is very easy to moor by the stern especially with a junk-rig where you may adjust the sail area. If you want to keep the bow to the wind a line from the bow to the cockpit would do the job. Just keep a long ded end to be able to bring back the mooring to the cockpit before retrieving it. With your boat stern to the wind, it will be very easy to find it in a crowded mooring !
    Otherwise, Don Jordan ( the man behind the Jordan drogue) recommends to moor by the stern in heavy weather : the stern is much more buoyant than the bow and the mast (especially with a junk rig) will feather the boat into the wind. With your boat stern to the wind, it will be very easy to find it in a crowded mooring ! 
    Otherwise a few kilos solidly fixed in a cockpit lazaret will do the job in a simple manner.

    Jordan recomandation on mooring


  • 16 Jan 2026 14:33
    Reply # 13586019 on 6872873

    There is no doubt that moving the mast forward changed the center (or centre) of gravity of my boat. The new mast, bare, was about the same or maybe a little lighter than the original due to it being a larger diameter but about four feet shorter. After adding the tabernacle and rig the new assembly is absolutely heavier than the original.

    Over the years I have trimmed a few ounces (or grams) here and there. I replaced the large chain at the end of the battens with a very small stainless screw and nut. I trimmed all standing parrels as short as possible and replaced large diameter rope with the smallest I thought would work.

    At the end of summer 2025 I would squint at my boat from the shore and convince myself that the bow wasn't floating too much lower than the others at the marina.

    One afternoon I received a voicemail from the marina. This always makes my heart skip a beat since I immediately imagine that my boat sank or came loose and damaged a large yacht worth more more than all the money I will ever see in my life.

    The voicemail informed me that someone reported my boat was 'not floating right' and that I should check on it. Continuing to imagine the worst I pictured my boat swamped with the deck at water level.

    When I arrived at the marina my boat looked the same as it always does.

    All of this is to say that, maybe, I should try to get some weight out of the bow.

    I am considering modifying the tabernacle to be a Holey Tabernacle by removing the material inside the red circles shown in the attached images. I would do the same to both the port and starboard side and maybe to side facing aft as well.

    Does anyone care to share their opinion on this idea? If anyone can say, "Don't do that, it will break!", or, "That looks like good idea, I think the tabernacle will still be very strong", it would be very helpful.

    Scott

    2 files
    Last modified: 16 Jan 2026 14:40 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Oct 2025 17:57
    Reply # 13553388 on 6872873

    Unless and until someone wants to buy my boat I intend to keep repairing things as needed and hopefully making improvement as well.

    I had been watching my tiller for a couple years now and thinking about encasing the whole thing in glass, epoxy and paint. I want to say I was putting it off because I couldn't quite figure out how to get a nice flat wrap of glass on the elegantly curved tiller.

    While I was day sailing in protected water this year I leaned on the tiller and it went 'crunch' and bent down. I think it failed in the best way possible. The top strip of wood delaminated. There was still plenty of strength in the direction that took the most load (when was not leaning on it).

    Anyway. I tried my best to get a fair surface before painting. It sure FELT smooth to my hand after several hours of hand sanding. After the paint went on it became clear the tiller does not have the smooth glossy finish I want. However, I am 100% sure it is sealed up and protected for a very long time now. 

    My intention is to sand and paint and then sand and paint again over the months or years until it looks the way I want.


    6 files
    Last modified: 17 Oct 2025 18:03 | Anonymous member
  • 04 Sep 2025 13:47
    Reply # 13538708 on 6872873

    I made one rig-related update this year.

    I imagine this is obvious to most of you, but line bags are a huge improvement to the overall experience of sailing. I added three bags this spring. The YHP, THP and Halyard now have and place to live and no longer get tangled together. It was so easy to make these bags using materials I already had. I should have done it much sooner. I have one more bag for the sheet, but I didn't get around to installing it in the boat, yet.

    Scott.


    1 file
  • 13 Sep 2024 19:12
    Reply # 13406483 on 13405592
    Arne wrote:

    Summary: Start on top and work your way downwards...

    Arne

    Thank you! Somehow I managed to adjust these correctly years ago. This year (I think?) I replaced the HK parrels with 'exact length' lines. During this change it seems I messed up the lines. The sail sets much better now.



    2 files
    Last modified: 13 Sep 2024 19:13 | Anonymous member
  • 11 Sep 2024 21:37
    Reply # 13405592 on 6872873
    Anonymous member (Administrator)


    Summary: Start on top and work your way downwards...


    Arne

  • 11 Sep 2024 21:12
    Reply # 13405578 on 6872873

    I have creases.

    I thought I would be able to spend an hour so this week adjusting my HK parrels to finally eliminate the long creases that show up in some, but not all, of the panels.

    I was able to get the starboard tack looking OK, but then the port tack became worse than before the adjustments.

    Can someone suggest a procedural way to adjust the HK parrel tension? Should I start and the top and work down? Bottom up? Middle first? It seems like when I improve the shape one one panel in makes a different panel worse.

    2 files
  • 26 Apr 2024 15:22
    Reply # 13348597 on 6872873

    I really should have written an update at the end of last summer. I feel like I did a lot of work on my boat but now I can only remember three changes to the rig. So, I only have a very small list of updates.

    Everything takes so much longer than I expect. It is hard to believe how many years I have been messing around with the same rig. Boats, right?

    1. I replaced the fiberglass yard with an aluminum tube.

    Under full sail the fiberglass yard would sometimes bend enough to concern me. After dropping even one panel it would pretty much look straight, so, while I felt it was a problem, I was pretty sure it was not not an immediate problem. I put this off for almost a year after I bought the replacement tube since I remember getting the original yard rigged was very difficult. This is one of the few things that actually was easier than I expected. It seems that most of the difficulty was learning how to rig the yard, not doing the actual work. I was able to rig the new spar in something like half the time I expected. I now have the same size tube in place for my yard, all battens and the boom. I hope this means my battens are oversized and not that my yard is undersized. So far I like the new yard. It is easier to hoist the sail because it is lighter, but it is actually slightly more work to drop the sail completely. The new yard is not heavy enough to allow the top panel to fall all the way to the top of the sail bundle. This has not been a serious problem. I can still get the sail all the way down without leaving the cockpit.

    2. I replaced my 'rope only' mast lift with a webbing mast lift. The rig seems to rotate more easily or, at least, with less noise from the rope rubbing on the mast. I also rigged this mast lift using a snap shackle so it is less work to rig and de-rig the boat each year.

    I have one photo that shows the mast lift and part of the new yard.

    3. I trimmed the lines that attach the sail to the boom. This was one of many things that look untidy. It bothered me. I am happy with the improvement.


    1 file
    Last modified: 26 Apr 2024 15:25 | Anonymous member
  • 08 Sep 2023 19:56
    Reply # 13251966 on 6872873

    I was able in move the double block for the sheet back about 4 or 5 inches. The alignment of the sheetlets seems better, but I am still not sure it is correct. I measured the lengths using the valves from PJR. I double checked everything and I think I followed the recommendations correctly. However, the sheetlet attached to the block seems to be pulling up and and back. I expect it should pull down and back. Any thoughts from those with more experience?



    5 files
    Last modified: 26 Apr 2024 15:09 | Anonymous member
  • 31 Aug 2023 14:34
    Reply # 13248327 on 11134770
    David wrote:

    [...] it seemed to me that the middle of those upper 3 sheeted battens was being pulled more than the battens above and below, which would suggest that the sheetlets are incorrectly set up, and to me, too short. [...]

    After trying to convince myself otherwise for a few years now, I finally understand that my upper sheet spans are not long enough. I recently reworked the sheets to use Pilmer style sheeting. With this setup I can now clearly see the thimble on the upper-most sheet span getting jammed into the thimble on the next lowest sheet span.

    Unfortunately I cannot make the top span longer. There is not enough boat to mount a block farther back.

    So it looks like building a bumkin or an arch or something will be top of the list for the upcoming off-season work.

    Right now I think a bumkin is the way for me to go. I am wondering if anyone can suggest an appropriate size, for strength. I do not see any specifics in PJR.

    I am thinking about using 2x4 dimensional lumber (Pine / Spruce / Fir) tapered to be about 1" x 1" at the far aft end of the bumkin, and 10% of the bumkin buried into the transom of the boat. Held in place with epoxy and glass, I think this should be strong enough. 

    Would anyone like to share their opinion about my plan? It is too big, to small?

    Last modified: 31 Aug 2023 14:37 | Anonymous member
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       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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