Arne wrote:

Scott,
after all the hard work you have done to get that rig working, I think both you and the sail deserve to finish the job:

To get rid of all those diagonal creases, I suggest you fit Hong Kong parrels and a running throat parrel.

In addition, to stop that lowest leech from fluttering, an elastic tack line, tied to the boom so it looks like a kicking strap, should be fitted. When the sail is fully up, the TL should have some stretch in it.

Good luck  -  remember that a sail has only been finished when it has been correctly rigged.

Arne

PS: Here is how it should look. The HK parrels do most of the job, but by pulling a bit on the THP, the load on the HKPs is much reduced. No bend in the battens.

PPS:
The diagonal creases in your sail are not just cosmetic. They remove a good deal of camber, so I think you lose some drive and suffer added drag instead.
Going upwind and tacking is all about improving the lift to drag ratio.

You were, of course, absolutely correct Arne. I got it in my head that the creases were just cosmetic. I added HK parrels. The difference in performance is like night and day. I was having too much fun sailing to stop and get a photo, but my sail sets much like the one in your latest reply. I have not missed a tack with the HK parrels rigged.

It seems I needed to learn the importance of HK parrels on my own. Thank you for explaining to me personally why they are necessary. It is clearly described in your book and write-ups. I should have just done what you said to do! You have been such a great help.

I am very happy with the sail I made following your design. I will be sure to get a photo, next time, showing the beautiful camber that develops with the HK parrels rigged.

I am having a little more trouble with the standing tack line. If it is taught enough to pull the boom down when sailing on the wind then it is too short to let the boom swing all the way out when running directly down wind.

I am also attempting to build a tiller brake following your write up.

Scott,
after all the hard work you have done to get that rig working, I think both you and the sail deserve to finish the job:

To get rid of all those diagonal creases, I suggest you fit Hong Kong parrels and a running throat parrel.

In addition, to stop that lowest leech from fluttering, an elastic tack line, tied to the boom so it looks like a kicking strap, should be fitted. When the sail is fully up, the TL should have some stretch in it.

Good luck  -  remember that a sail has only been finished when it has been correctly rigged.

Arne

PS: Here is how it should look. The HK parrels do most of the job, but by pulling a bit on the THP, the load on the HKPs is much reduced. No bend in the battens.

PPS:
The diagonal creases in your sail are not just cosmetic. They remove a good deal of camber, so I think you lose some drive and suffer added drag instead.
Going upwind and tacking is all about improving the lift to drag ratio.

On the starboard tack on a close reach the sail balances the boat just about perfectly without me touching anything. On the port tack there just a little bit of weather helm. It is barely noticeable but it is enough that the boat will tack through if I don't keep my hand on the tiller.

The video shows me tacking to change from the starboard to port tack. It is much more difficult to 'make' this tack. I have 'missed' and got blown back onto the starboard tack several times. (It seems to happen most often when people on shore can see me). Tacking the other direction is very easy. I have never had a problem.

I am trying to decide if this is a problem that I can fix, or if this is just the way it is.

Annie wrote:

I had to have the mat band made because of the stainless steel tubing attached to the back of it, that the bolt goes through.  I was lucky enough to find a real 'old-time' metalworker for this, who took the trouble to understand what it was we were trying to achieve and to sketch it out so that we were both on the same page.  I wish I'd known about him earlier.  He also lined the ring with Mylar to avoid any corrosion between it and the mast.  I obviously didn't take a photo of it when we were stepping the mast - I was a tad distracted at the time!  It's pouring with rain at present, but if you require a photo, I'll take one for you when the weather improves.

I agree with the other comments that lee helm is not unusual in very light airs, with junk rig.  Also, of course, junk rig is much more amenable to adjustments made after the event, than a sail sliding up a track or hanked to a forestay.

Hi Annie,

Thank you for the response. Please do not go out in the rain just to get me a photo. When the weather is better and, if you have time, I would like to see some of the details.

I am always amazed to find that there is a proper nautical term for every part of a sailboat. I spent some time looking at images of 'mast bands' used on traditional western sailing rigs. I had no idea this piece had a name.

On Saturday the weather was just about perfect for day sailing on Lake Michigan. The wind was about 9 knots from the south with smooth water and clear weather. This is perfect for going out on a reach, as far as you care to go, and then sailing right back on the reciprocal tack.

In these conditions I experienced neutral helm and just a slight bit of pleasant weather helm. It was a good day sailing and I am very happy with the rig.

To be clear I am absolutely happy that I converted to a Junk Rig. It is so much better for single handed sailing than a mainsail on a track and a hanked-on foresail.

In no particular order this is what I am enjoying:

- If I need to drop the sail and depower the rig quickly all I have to do it let the halyard go from the rope clutch. This is awesome.

- If I need just a little bit of sail to get moving again in the harbor it is just as easy to pull one or two panels back up and sail slowly. The precise maneuvering I can do under sail is great.

- The sail is so quiet. Letting the sail luff makes a very soft and pleasant sound. To me it sounds like fresh, dry snow under my boots on a calm winter night. This is so much different than a triangular Dacron sail flogging in the wind.

- I can round the boat up into the wind (in irons) to stop for a minute without any stressful sail noise. This has already been useful several times.

- I have one big yellow sail.

- Even when things did not go exactly right hoisting the sail I never had to leave the cockpit. I am sure I am much safer. It is very unlikely that I will fall on to the deck or off of the boat.

- Self tacking! Working my way up wind is fun. No sail trimming required. I just sail back and forth using the tiller. It is so easy and enjoyable.

Scott.

Scott wrote:

Annie: Can please tell me, does Fanshi have a large insulated pipe clamp for a hinge, or was that custom made?

I am a little concerned about the helm balance. With the right wind speed and the right angle into the wind it is perfectly balanced. This is huge change from my South Coast 23 where I had to pull against the weather helm constantly. But in light air the boat has lee helm

I had to have the mat band made because of the stainless steel tubing attached to the back of it, that the bolt goes through.  I was lucky enough to find a real 'old-time' metalworker for this, who took the trouble to understand what it was we were trying to achieve and to sketch it out so that we were both on the same page.  I wish I'd known about him earlier.  He also lined the ring with Mylar to avoid any corrosion between it and the mast.  I obviously didn't take a photo of it when we were stepping the mast - I was a tad distracted at the time!  It's pouring with rain at present, but if you require a photo, I'll take one for you when the weather improves.

I agree with the other comments that lee helm is not unusual in very light airs, with junk rig.  Also, of course, junk rig is much more amenable to adjustments made after the event, than a sail sliding up a track or hanked to a forestay.