Daisy Mae resto-mod build

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  • 04 Jan 2019 04:17
    Reply # 6982772 on 6315683

    Thanks for all the input. The project is moving way slower then I would like, but this venture is both an educational and healing journey. If anyone would like to come help me, I can house you in the cottage I am renting until the boat is splashed :)

    Last modified: 04 Jan 2019 04:17 | Anonymous member
  • 12 Dec 2018 01:24
    Reply # 6956133 on 6315683

    I would have thought it much easier to just offer up the frame, bore right through it and through the hull and the sheath, and bolt it up. That would not mean removing any epoxy sheathing other than filling and repairing the sheath at each of the bolt holes. However, main thing is, you are talking to local boat builders and asking their advice - that was my only concern really.

    Best wishes for the project.

    Last modified: 12 Dec 2018 01:25 | Anonymous member
  • 12 Dec 2018 00:57
    Reply # 6956123 on 6315683

    Thanks for the input! The planking is in good shape, and I have 7 ribs to replace. I dont want to remove that much fiber glass as it is adheared quite well. My idea was to make the ribs, mark spots, ues a fostner bit amd bore into the planking amd epoxy lag bolts in. Then, take the shaped rib and bore through it to bolt the new rib in. All the boat builders out here that I have spoke to said fir wood is the way to go for this application. I was just curious if anyone has ever used glass ribs as an alternative. 

  • 11 Dec 2018 23:00
    Reply # 6955989 on 6315683

    James I am hearing warning bells here.

    For the sake of further discussion, just scanning quickly through the previous threads and photographs: The hull has been heavily built in a work boat tradition, of carvel planking (yakal below and teak above the waterline) over sawn frames of white oak.

    At a later stage in its life, the seams were splined and the hull covered with a heavy fibreglass sheath.

    About a year ago a deck leak was discovered to have caused rot to one or more of the sawn frames, which the previous owner claimed to have "sealed and fixed in 2017 using epoxy". Evidently further water damage to frames has now been discovered, and some rough sawn white oak boards and epoxy was to be left to the new owner for further repairs. (Ref the original "for sale" advert.)

    Photographs show at least one of the sawn frames has rotted away in places. Photographs one, two, three.

    James, I presume these frames are meant to be part of the structure. In that case the rotten parts need to be removed, the frame(s) restored and properly re-fastened to the planking. That is, provided the planking itself has not been infected by rot.

    Modern resins are wonderful stuff, ideal for modern methods of construction in association with modern materials. They have their place also in some situations in the repair of traditional hulls, but not in all situations. The idea of making "fibreglass ribs" in this situation does not seem to me like a sound idea, particularly if the reason is an intention to just try to stick them on from the inside.

    The amount of timber required to make or repair a sawn frame is not great, so cost should not be an issue here. Shaping and fitting a sawn frame (or part of a sawn frame) to the original workboat finish might require a little patience with scribing, and a little skill with sharp tools, but not too much of a challenge if you study the existing frames to see how they were made and the hull fastened to them. I should think any durable timber would do, and I would be interested to know from an expert if there is any good reason why you can not fasten a new frame in place, properly, from the outside, and then repair any resulting minor damage to the fibreglass sheath quite simply with epoxy resin.

    The above is not offered as advice, not knowing enough about the situation, but no rocket science is required here. It would seem not to be a major problem, and if a frame is actually needed here, as part of the structure, then it should be fixed or replaced properly. The actual advice that I will give you is that if you are uncertain about how to proceed, then it would be worth consulting a local boat builder, to come and have a look at the situation. Preferably not someone whose background is in modern materials but someone who has a knowledge of traditional shipwright skills. I am sure you can do the job yourself, but the hire of a shipwright or traditional boatbuilder/surveyor for a couple of hours, just to give you the right advice and set you in the right direction, might be money well spent.

    (It might pay, at the same time, to get this person also to examine closely the condition of the planking, between those frames, as shown in photographs one, two and three above, and explain that matrix of ss fastenings. Hopefully the planking there is better than it looks in the photographs.)

    (Referring to an earlier post, I would also be a little hesitant, and think carefully before following through with the idea of reinstalling the ballast with resin, as I suspect your idea of filling up to the level of the cabin sole might require a much greater volume than you may think. The use of resin here may be a good suggestion, but in your application of it there may be the potential for some further brainstorming. Anyway, that is another issue.)

    Last modified: 12 Dec 2018 00:21 | Anonymous member
  • 11 Dec 2018 21:02
    Reply # 6955845 on 6315683

    Thanks for the input and helping to keep me focused! Lets first just get her back in the water!! My biggest obstacle is making and installimg new ribs. The fiber glass shell prevents me from just nailing them in as I dont wamt to cut into it, there is no seperation. Any ideas on how to make fiber flass ribs, or am I going to be best served just using fir? I definitely dont have the budget for teak, and the ones that need replaced are made from white oak. 

    Last modified: 12 Dec 2018 00:51 | Anonymous member
  • 01 Dec 2018 01:05
    Reply # 6940655 on 6315683

    Good to read the update.

    Before actually embarking on any of these major alterations (bilge keels, huge battery banks) it would be well to just get her seaworthy and fitted out in the simple way which becomes this type of vessel, and see how she goes. You might be pleasantly surprised. She looks to me, in the way she has been built and fitted out, to have integrity. Convert her into something else and you risk losing that. 

    Whatever you decide, I wish you the joy of it and hope to hear more about it. And in addition, I still do hope that you can persuade the original owner to write us an article describing the concept and how she came into being, in Hong Kong. That would be a real treat.

    Last modified: 01 Dec 2018 08:42 | Anonymous member
  • 30 Nov 2018 08:26
    Reply # 6939173 on 6937202
    Anonymous wrote:

    A bit of an update. The boat is comimg together slower than I would like as Ive found significantly more water damage and rot issues then expected. Still chugging along on the project though. 

    I have several ideas I would appreciate input on from you savy folks.

    I intend to put bilge keels on the vessel so that it will track better, sit level in a tidal flat, and help with righting motion in a knock down. I spoke to a fellow who lived in hong kong for a while and said this was very popular modification on the motor junks. I was hoping to salvage a pair but have yet to find a donor boat. No luck yet, any ideas on constructing some? 

    I found a soft spot in the keel so I pulled the floor boards to check the whole beam and found the lead was just stacked and wedged into it. It was never melted or epoxied in.... Bad news in a knock down. My last boat had a cement with iron ingot balast with a cement floor. I quite liked it. The keel was good, and I hardened the small soft spot with thinned epoxy. I am considering stacking the lead back in, then pouring marine cement in the hold to gain a bit more ballast, hold everything in place, and make a nice smooth floor with no need in trying to cut fine wood to fit. I figure just paint it and use exterior carrpet. Thoughts?

    I am considering using only electric appliances. I have a charging system on my diesel, plan on a 400 to 600 ah batterey bank and would carry an emergency camp stove. I got a small household convection oven for a great price and love it. This got me thinking about an induction stove aswell. It would be great and a major cost saving. The nice diesel units still heat up the whole boat and arent as easy. If I go this route I will use house hold units adapted for the cost saving. For the price of a dickonson I can have a great solar electic system. Input? Anyone run all Electric?

    I have a pair of barlow 16 winches I am considering mounting ro the hailiards on the coach roof. Idk, I have them and dont know what to do with them. Maybe use them for adjusting a horizontal windvane?

    I am planning a horizontal windvane since I have a huge rudder. I should be able to balance the schooner rig the have the rudder true to be under the control of the vane. Tips on this sort of gear? My rudder is massive.

    Fair weather and following seas. 

    I've had successful results with a slurry of dry sand and resin, mixed in a bucket, and also with lead shot to fill the gaps between the ingots and resin poured over. It seems to me that your boat is asking for epoxy resin rather than cement, to bond to the wood and eliminate pockets of moisture.

    All your other ideas: I'd put on hold until you have some seatime and know how she handles and what she's like to live with at sea as well as in harbour. You don't yet know for sure whether bilge runners are a good idea, and I doubt it.

    Only big high-budget boats are really suited to going all electric, and they carry a genset. A 30ft boat will have a job to carry more than 200AH of battery. Stick with diesel for heating and alcohol for cooking.

    Only by going to sea under sail can one decide what kind of self steering will suit her, but I can say for sure that it won't be a vane-to-tiller, more likely a vane-to-pendulum-to-tiller gear.

  • 29 Nov 2018 22:18
    Reply # 6938642 on 6315683

    Sorry, there's only what you see in that article. Somewhere, I might still have the paper drawing of the hatch, but it would be of limited application to other boats.

    Last modified: 29 Nov 2018 22:18 | Anonymous member
  • 29 Nov 2018 21:12
    Reply # 6938585 on 6315683

    Thanks! Its great to have some pics. Ive been using the pjr. Did you make your own hatch? Did you do a write up on that?

  • 29 Nov 2018 18:53
    Reply # 6938425 on 6937202
    James wrote:

    Can someone link me to good pram hood building resource? Thanks.

    Pramhood article
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