Heave to ?

  • 28 Feb 2018 07:54
    Reply # 5881209 on 5734568

    Graham, I don't feel any contradiction here! I was trying to say, earlier, that in a "yachtsman's gale", Force 6 - 8, heaving to can be a useful technique. I think we agree, though, that it's the sea state that matters, not the wind strength. A 50 knot squall in flat water can be tough sailing, but not dangerous. 30 knots of wind that is opposed by a current, putting up big steep seas, can be very dangerous.

    The only time that I was knocked down in Tystie, in the South Atlantic, the wind was less than gale force, but had changed direction rapidly, and I suspect that there were some ocean currents involved as well, so that the seas became steep and confused. In such conditions, there is not one straightforward answer. Have a look at this recent account of a very similar encounter with confused seas, again with no easy answer:

    http://figure8voyage.com/disaster/

    In such cases, heaving to certainly isn't the answer, and in my case a drogue wouldn't have helped.

  • 28 Feb 2018 00:06
    Reply # 5880728 on 5734568

    It is not my intention to contradict someone with as much experience as David Tyler, whose seamanship I much admire, but would like to suggest that it might be ok to heave to with a light boat , or more accurately, fore-reach, in moderate gales.  Roger Taylor has done this numerous times with little Ming Ming, with just a panel or two of the sail up, the sheet eased and self-steering engaged at 40-45 degrees.  However, he also runs off when conditions get really severe, using his Jordan Series Drogue if the boat is going too fast.  John Guzzwell lay ahull successfully many times in lightweight Trekka, and no lesser an authority that Eric Tabarly recommended it for fin-keeled yachts in his book on seamanship.  He used the tactic on his 35ft Pen Duick V, as well as his bigger yachts.  However, the tactic scares me.  In 1986 I lay ahull in a moderate gale in the Tasman Sea on a fin-keeled 30ft yacht.  The seas knocked the bows off, we'd career down the face of the wave with the sea on the quarter, then broach in the trough, despite tying the tiller down.  That boat had fat stern quarters and a fine bow, though, and I think design plays a large role in tactics, as does the particular sea state.  Heavy boats with long keels certainly heave-to or lie ahull the best.  The Hiscocks did it many times with Wanderer 111, though they also chose to run off once heavy crests began to board the vessel, around Force 9 in the open sea, and earlier in places where there was an opposing current, such as SW gales off the east coast of South Africa, or a norther in the Gulf Stream.  So there are many variables, it seems to me, and many different types of boat, all happily sailing around the world.  You have to choose a boat that suits your personality.  If you are a bit anxious, a long-keeled steel boat makes sense, it will take longer to get there but so what?  But if you love performance and are good at taking calculated risks (like rock-climbers) a well-engineered, fast, light displacement fin-keeler will be just the packet.  I own the former type of vessel but often wish I had the latter!  Either way, you'll almost certainly get there.  It is a lot safer than driving a car down the highway! 

    Last modified: 28 Feb 2018 00:08 | Anonymous member
  • 27 Feb 2018 19:51
    Reply # 5880410 on 5734568

    Raymond,

    Please try to put heaving to, fore-reaching and lying ahull on one side, as a technique for surviving extreme weather. For such working craft as pilot boats and fishing boats, they were a useful technique for staying in one place in all weathers, and so they evolved hull types that did that well: very heavy, with full length deep keels. But, that kind of boat does not make a good cruising yacht. Cruising yachts from the last 50 years or so, that are fit for long distance cruising, are moderate in all respects - chiefly in beam, draught and displacement - and their best way of surviving extreme weather is to turn their stern to it, and to run under bare poles, using a drag device to keep their speed within safe limits. There is now a consensus amongst experienced offshore sailors that using the Jordan Series Drogue is the preferred option in survival conditions.

  • 27 Feb 2018 17:43
    Reply # 5880172 on 5734568
    Deleted user
    Dear David. You are right, I only crossed between Sweden and Norway 40 years ago with my father who looked very serious as we surfed back home on some big waves as the rudder vibrated  intensely . But now that I prepare for blue waters I did not mean heave to for resting or eating which I did when sailing my Snipe when young but I was more looking for survival during an unexpected heavy storm even though this is rare. I read Storm Tactics by Lin and Larry, Get Real Get Gone and Singlehanded by Andrew Evans who races which I won't. So after this and reading on forums Even if heavy storms are unusual I don't now whether it is safe to buy a flat bottom Southerly or twin keel version to get close to beaches and up rivers and through canals as well. Some people say that a full length keel is the only really safe way to go. And steel ! Junk rig seems to be heavenly when alone or with non sailors. And another thought is, can I not during a storm add aa small storm foresail on a junk last to get the heave to balance ? I will read the book you recommended to me, thank you.  For the moment I plan to sail during some years from the Mediterranean sea to the carribean sea and through panama to the Pacific Ocean during the European winters (November - March. The southern oceans, not this time Thank you for your help.  My budget is 30 000 euros plus 10 000 for equipment 
  • 24 Feb 2018 08:13
    Reply # 5875221 on 5734568

    Hello Raymond,

    I see from your profile that you are an old dinghy sailor, so from that I am assuming that you have little or no offshore sailing experience. I think that you may be thinking of the landsman's "storm", meaning " a lot of wind (undefined)", whereas a seaman defines a storm as being the next step after severe gale in the Beaufort Scale.

    Repeating what I said earlier: Let's be clear what both of these techniques [fore-reaching and heaving to] are for: they make it possible to stop the boat, to wait for any reason, to think about what to do next, to cook, eat, navigate and do maintenance, in greater comfort when the sea is rough, (in up to Force 8, and possibly force 9 if the sea state is not too bad). But not, with modern boat types, as a way of surviving very heavy weather (Force 10 and above), just as a way of achieving a bit of comfort in moderately heavy weather.

    I suggest that you get a copy of Heavy Weather Sailing, By Adlard Coles, updated by Peter Bruce. This will bring you to an understanding of what it is like to be at sea in a gale, or more than a gale. If you look at the photo on pp 54-55, taken in the North Atlantic in Beaufort F10 - 11, Storm - Violent Storm, you will see, I hope, that survival has nothing to do with the rig, or with heaving to. 

    But don't worry! Very, very few sailors experience the ultimate survival storm at sea. I haven't, after sailing the length and breadth of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  

    Last modified: 24 Feb 2018 09:00 | Anonymous member
  • 24 Feb 2018 01:29
    Reply # 5874930 on 5734568
    Deleted user

    Dear David Tylor. I would like to buy a junkrigged boat since I am the only one aboard who knows sailing and this I consider that I am singlehanded. BUT I also want to be able to heave to to survive a heavy storm !  I am looking for a used 30-35 footer. Would you not consider this possible ? 

  • 17 Feb 2018 09:59
    Reply # 5741576 on 5741513
    Nicholas Head wrote:
    What a facinating thread this has turned into for those of us with.limited heavy weather junk experience. Thank you all.
    Am I right to assume that the fore reaching method is needed to provide the flow over the servo blade to keep the helm set the right way. I imagine that going too much sideways would not be beneficial to using the windvane?

    In general terms, and with the proviso that different boats will behave differently, yes. Fore-reaching is really just sailing very slowly, the boat needs steering, and the windvane can do that for you.

    Being hove-to is an attempt to stop the boat completely, when the vane steering won't work. Having a pendulum vane gear connected whilst hove-to will dampen the helm, but a tiller will still thrash to and fro, to some extent (though a wheel will behave in a more subdued way, due to the flywheel effect).  I think there's too much risk of damage, and would choose to lash the helm when hove-to.
  • 17 Feb 2018 07:28
    Reply # 5741513 on 5741493
    Deleted user
    Annie Hill wrote:

    And quite apart from anything else, if you have a servo pendulum gear, engaging the wind vane is an excellent way of lashing the helm, including having a bit of "give"!

    What a facinating thread this has turned into for those of us with.limited heavy weather junk experience. Thank you all.
    Am I right to assume that the fore reaching method is needed to provide the fliw iver the servo blade to keep the helm set the right way. I imagine that going too much sideways would not be beneficial to using the windvane?

  • 17 Feb 2018 05:21
    Reply # 5741493 on 5734568

    And quite apart from anything else, if you have a servo pendulum gear, engaging the wind vane is an excellent way of lashing the helm, including having a bit of "give"!

  • 16 Feb 2018 21:31
    Reply # 5740951 on 5740504
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    I agree with David on his points about single junks. Still, different hulls need slightly different practice.

    For long-term offshore heaving to, I bet David’s method is the best. It would not surprise me if he uses the wind vane to select his pointing angle and avoid tacking.

    What do you say, David?

     

    Cheers, Arne


    Yes, different boats can need very different methods. Tystie is very different from Weaverbird, with the former sailing well on a lashed helm and the latter, having no skeg, needing steering nearly all the time. I use the vane for that very reason.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
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