Demast and advice

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  • 17 Aug 2017 01:53
    Reply # 5033228 on 5028218

    Hi everybody,

    I saw pictures, and for me ther is undoubtely root in the wood and that what the mast broke. I have about the same foremast (180/150 for 10.4m ,30sqm sail) in laminated oregon pine since 15 years and about 45 000 milles. Yes, one time i had damage due to a sharp edge of a wedge which was coming down a little (pictures in my profile), but exept damage due to the shafe they seem to be still good (I touch wood saying that!). They have a flexibility which doesn't seem dangerous, but I rekon that some noises happens around the main mast partners in heavy seas due to the very little motions between mast/wedge/partners and they are sometime impressive (I have to fix it by the use of soft wood wedges).

    Using spaced wedges and mast coat there is plenty of air around this area (and water sometime!). when i saw size mast specifications in PJR i was a little afraid because they were a lot more bigger than mine  .

    In final I think if these masts are laminated  with good wood, good glue, and good work they make the job. If timber pole is used they may be have to be bigger to take cracks in count.

    I hope Roger will find a good solution to fix this problem, and I am sure he is in the good place in Wangharei to do that with the help of the wonderfull NZ JRA community.

  • 16 Aug 2017 20:50
    Reply # 5032845 on 5028218
    Deleted user

    I have a golden rule for all masts and many other bits for a boat . 

    Does it look right  second does it look manly enough  look at the mast on Rogers Ming ming 2  some would say a bit big me I like the look of things that look like they can take on the world


    pete

  • 16 Aug 2017 09:27
    Reply # 5031816 on 5028218
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    In 2013 a French gentleman contacted me. He had almost finished the building of a 12m/11ton Le Forestier schooner (cold-moulded).

    Now he had heard about others with the same type of boat, which had had problems with the rig. One mainmast (of good quality wood) fell over in light winds in a heavy swell.

    The mainmast was planned at 220mm at partners and 180mm at mast top.
    The fore mast was planned to be 180mm at deck and 150mm at mast top.

    When the builder spoke to a friend with an operational boat, that owner reported about a number of problems. The rudder was too small, the flat sails didn’t draw well, and the sheets got tangled with the battens.

    To me, the mast looked way too thin at the partners and way too thick at the mast top.

    To make a long story short, I suggested the main mast to be 29cm (hollow wood, Mb=9800kpm) and the foremast to be 2/3 as strong, at 25.6cm diameter. Both were suggested with 40% diameter in the top.

    I am afraid I am not a fan of le Forestier's designs. However, his plans are great to look at. I guess this is another case of..

    engineer versus architect...

    Cheers, Arne

     


    Last modified: 17 Aug 2017 17:34 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 16 Aug 2017 08:28
    Reply # 5031796 on 5031484
    Graham Cox wrote:

    It does seem your masts are a bit light.  Last night I was re-reading Kris Larsen's Monsoon Dervish (working, not loafing, doing research for a future HOF article!) and he mentioned that his mast, which is 12m overall, is 300mm at the partners, 125mm at the truck and 200mm at the step, a solid oregon tree he purchased from the Tasmanian Forestry Commission (anything like that in NZ?).  It is hard to find the sort of alloy, spun-tapered mast I have in this part of the world.  Mine came from France and I was lucky to get it, one of only 4 available in Australia.


    No such luck, I'm afraid.  Invercargill used to have a managed plantation of Sitka Spruce, planted for the War Effort (by a complete pessimist, one has to assume.)  The masts on PassePatu came from there, but the council chopped them all down and turned them into wood chips (rumour has it) some years ago.  All our douglas fir/oregon is grown too fast, really.  (Or maybe they simply export the good stuff - you'd have thought that grown high up on S Island would be first class.)  Good spar timber is all imported, unless you can get hold of some second hand. 
  • 16 Aug 2017 00:55
    Reply # 5031484 on 5028218

    It does seem your masts are a bit light.  Last night I was re-reading Kris Larsen's Monsoon Dervish (working, not loafing, doing research for a future HOF article!) and he mentioned that his mast, which is 12m overall, is 300mm at the partners, 125mm at the truck and 200mm at the step, a solid oregon tree he purchased from the Tasmanian Forestry Commission (anything like that in NZ?).  It is hard to find the sort of alloy, spun-tapered mast I have in this part of the world.  Mine came from France and I was lucky to get it, one of only 4 available in Australia.

  • 15 Aug 2017 22:15
    Reply # 5031358 on 5031260
    Roger Fullerton wrote:

    Hi Annie,

     The broken mast was 180mm at the deck with a 33,7m2 sail area and a height of 11.7m The main is 250mm at deck with 58,5m2 sail area and 15m mast. The masts do not have wedges, they make a lot of noise so I reckon they are a little loose, hence the theory they where rubbing and wearing out. Will know more when I remove the main mast and dissect it. I will drop by shortly to Nor sand’s if that’s ok Annie.


    For an offshore boat, as stiff as a Le Forestiere junk, they sound a bit light on.  I think that might explain why they failed on you.  I don't know if you have a copy of Practical Junk Rig, but I have a copy that I can lend you.  You are very welcome to come by Norsand - ask in the office to find out where I am.  Best described as the big shed with the real windows.
  • 15 Aug 2017 21:23
    Reply # 5031260 on 5028218
    Deleted user

    Hi Annie,

     Yes I'm at Riverside Marina, lifting onto the hard today. Unfortunately the boat went across the Pacific on another boat, I did not. The crew reckoned the main mast might suffer the same problem and we would not have enough diesel to make Galapagos to Marquesas. End of one dream, start of a different one now.

     The broken mast was 180mm at the deck with a 33,7m2 sail area and a height of 11.7m The main is 250mm at deck with 58,5m2 sail area and 15m mast. The masts do not have wedges, they make a lot of noise so I reckon they are a little loose, hence the theory they where rubbing and wearing out. Will know more when I remove the main mast and dissect it. I will drop by shortly to Nor sand’s if that’s ok Annie.

     Paul, I will email you later today, thanks.

     Graham, thanks for the info I had not really thought about alloy masts much yet. Good to have more options and opinions.

     Off to haul the yacht out now.


  • 15 Aug 2017 06:14
    Reply # 5029829 on 5028218

    I think timber masts are quieter, and nicer, though I have no serious complaints about my alloy mast.  However, my mast sets up an infernal squeaking at times when there is some movement of the yard and battens at sea, caused by the yard and throat parrels rubbing back and forth, but at least it doesn't make sawdust, as Mike Richey reported occasionally happened with his unsheathed timber mast on Jester.  So, maybe timber with a good epoxy and glass sheathing!  Steel and alloy masts of the right spec are probably stronger for a given weight, but it should be possible to build a laminated, epoxy and glass sheathed timber mast that is reliable. Properly wedged, with a good mast boot! 

    Having said all that, I like my unpainted alloy mast because I never have to think about it, apart from checking under the boot occasionally to make sure it is not corroding.  I spray around the partners thoroughly with lanolin oil every time I check.  I have friends who stepped painted steel masts from China 10 years ago and have had excellent service.  It becomes a matter of preference.  They all flex a bit, and should, which is why they are tapered, though some masts seem to flex excessively and alarmingly to me.  My mast is 200mm dia. at the partners and 110 at the truck, 8.6m height above the partners (overall length 10.6m), wall thickness 5mm, with a sail area of 35sq m.  My sistership, Minke, has a solid timber mast that is 250mm at the partners but only 100mm at the truck and I noticed it flexed a lot more. 

  • 15 Aug 2017 03:35
    Reply # 5029705 on 5028218

    Hi Roger,

    Feel free to contact me if you need help to get a steel mast, I've designed and built a few now.

  • 14 Aug 2017 09:21
    Reply # 5028284 on 5028218
    Roger Fullerton wrote:

    Hello all,


    I recently got a Forestier junk and set off to sail across the Pacific to New Zealand from St Martin. Unfortunately the forward mast snapped after a week in roughly 20 knots of wind. It neatly fell over the boat, 2 ropes where cut and the mast and sail are now somewhere in the Caribbean sea.


    There are pictures in the photo section of the snapped mast, the silicon seal around the other mast and a towel inside wrapped around the mast to prevent water getting inside.


    Now I understand why there is so much discussion on here about mast boots, a silicon bead around the bottom does not do the job.


    The previous mast was Oregon planks laminated into a solid mast with a hole down the center for wires. The mast snapped where it meets the deck, around the outer circumference the split parallel to the deck and very clean. The theory so far is that the protective layer was worn down where the mast and deck meet, the silicon bead did nothing to prevent water getting in, it probably rotted around that area and eventually broke.


     Trying to get replacement mast in Panama was not successful so the boat is back in Whangarei, NZ now for repairs.


    After the mishap I am leaning towards replacing them with steel masts because hopefully they are stronger, lighter and don't sway so much when having to go up the mast.


    Are there any good reasons to stay with wooden masts? From the forums the major advantages seem to be the mast bending reduces boat rolling and it doesn’t rust.


    Hi Roger

    My friend, Marcus, saw your boat at Ray Robertsmarina late last week.  Welcome to NZ. It must have been quite an epic passage, across the Pacific and dismasted.  How did the boat handle under just one sail?

    I was surprised to see in the photo, that there didn't appear to be any wedges around the mast - it must have been a very snug fit in the partners.  I could imagine that the mast could be damaged and let the water in.  How old was it?  From the photos, it doesn't look rotten, but it's hard to be sure with a photo.  I wonder if it was too small for the job. How big was it, and what sail area did it carry?  Regardless, you wouldn't expect it to fall over the side in 20 knots of wind.

    I'm not sure that steel masts are stronger than a wooden mast - they are lighter than a solid one of similar strength but I'm afraid they are no less unpleasant to climb up.  However, good douglas fir is not cheap here, although high-grade second hand wood can be found.

    There are three junk-rigged boats here with steel masts - one here in Whangarei and the other two in Auckland.  Another choice is to buy a 6m section of alloy and to build a wooden topmast that extends it to the correct length.  Or you could consider getting a fibreglass topmast made to do the same job.  There is a bloke here who reckons he can make one as stiff and strong as alloy.

    Junk masts shouldn't bend - well at least not that noticeably.  If yours bent, then it implies it was too light a section for the sail.  Personally I can see many advantages to a wooden mast, but I would always coat one with glass and epoxy myself.  A steel mast shouldn't rust if it is manufactured correctly and galvanised - you pays your money and you takes your choice.

    Please feel free to get in touch if you think I can help.


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