One more question on the mast step:  do you use any additional hardware to hold the mast in /down in the event of a knockdown.  What keeps this thing deep into the step until you really want to remove it? 

1) I used a 5/8" hole and channel, and a 3/16" gap around the tenon. The polyurethane is very fluid when first mixed, so these sizes were more than enough. Make a dam of modelling clay around the pour hole and the mast, so that the cavity can be slightly over-filled.

In Canada, I used Smooth-on brand, their TASK series, but I can't remember which grade.

2) I made a cable exit hole just above the heel plug, and this would also act as a drain.

Arne Kverneland wrote:

David Tyler wrote:

...

I've also very reluctantly come to the decision that the Suzuki 2.5HP is just too small. At least, for the big strong tides around here, where it's often necessary to work to a timetable, getting in and out of harbour at high water. I've bitten the bullet and bought a Tohatsu 6HP Sailpro with high thrust prop already fitted. I got it aboard and installed today, and started it up at high water. It's neaps, so Weaverbird didn't quite float and I couldn't go for a test drive, but everything seemed to be functioning very well, and I think I've made the right decision.

David,

PS: I very recently added a simple block device to let me get a more effective pull while standing in the cockpit. A quick half-meter pull on my (blue plywood) handle gives a super-quick one-meter pull on the start chord handle. My conclusion is that the engine makers must have changed the gearing of the recoil starter, to make it lighter.

PS: I have made a new topic on outboard engines, here.

Having twice skinned my knuckles on the companionway frame, the pull is so long, I've set up this 1:2 purchase, and now it's much better for starting. With the long pull, I was finding it difficult to spin the motor fast enough. Now I can get a more reliable start.

David Tyler wrote:

 I've made a single burner cooker using a Maxie meths burner as I found this to be an excellent piece of kit in operation and efficiency - but not, as both Annie and I have found, quite so good for longevity. However, I did get several years use from a burner, with no maintenance required at all. 

David, what parts of the Maxie wear out (burn out)?

I also recommend this thread for those interested in cookers.

BTW, today I was out in Ingeborg with a mate and we opened a can of soup and heated it on the Origo 3000. After having brought it to boil with the burner at full steam (yellow, inefficient flame), I turned the burner down to lowest setting. This was still enough to keep the soup simmering, and now the flame was nice and blue, which I conclude must be quite efficient (oxygen-rich = full combustion). Can that be so bad? I admit I haven't tried to fry a steak on it  -  is the problem that you don't get enough heat out of it?

Arne