Annie Hill wrote:I used International Perfection (two-part polyurethane), outside in the summer.  I did the job myself having to shift my platform (no scaffolding available) and found that I could 'tip off' effectively, using the foam roller very gently after each roll. The trick was to get going as soon as the hull was dry (a rub down and second wipe over with alcohol helped here) and to start on the shady side.  It was still a bit of a rush, but the result was very satisfactory.  I've put a photograph of the finished result as the cover of my Fantail album here.

However, I would caution against putting too much work into the paint job: most of the time you are not looking up at the hull from below the water line and most imperfections will be far from obvious.  In addition, your own dinghy and visiting boats will all start knocking the hull around once your go sailing.  A liveaboard, voyaging yacht is a work boat and it's well to remember that she will be far less cosseted than her marina-based sisters.  I invested in a (very) expensive boarding ladder this year and was more than a little dismayed to see how it had scuffed up the topsides where it rested against them, in spite of the fact that the lower part is pulled out of the water when it's not actually in use.  I'd have been very distressed if that had happened a couple of weeks after launching, if I'd put weeks of effort into the prep and painting.

Thank you Annie!  I agree with the hull AWL portion.  I really think we need to do something about the decks especially where there is some rust and things are weeping a bit.  Can't wait to get her here and get going on the work.

If anyone wants to know, I use POR "Chassis Black" (now known as Topcoat) a single part Urethane that is totally non-porous and does not chip or peel. It goes on semi-gloss but after six months or so goes matt. However the semi-gloss can easily be brought back with some gentle buffing.

The paint has lasted three years now and shows no sign of fading or any UV damage. It's tough, hard and dammed near unbreakable ... just like LC.

I agree with Annie: think Landrover, not Mercedes, when it comes to a home built, junk rigged dory. I've used Brantho Corrux, a paint with a non - shiny appearance for my Wylo. A high gloss paint such as Toplac will make any defects, bumps and scrapes glaringly obvious and break your heart.

After a year in the French canals, (over 400 locks transited), our hull came out looking presentable. Had she been painted with a high gloss paint, a complete repaint would have been needed to maintain pride of ownership.

David Thatcher wrote:

I have had very good results with International Toplac paint which I think is universally available. This is a single pack paint which has Teflon and other modifiers in it which gives a finish and durability similar to high grade two pack spray finishes. International Paints, (maybe Interlux in other countries) have a lot of painting guides available to help you with prep. On my boat I did a good sand of the old paint system, two coats of the recommended undercoat surfacer with a light sand between coats, and then two coats of the Toplac rolled on and laid off vertically with a brush. Total cost for my 10m boat of about NZ$300 plus my labour. In New Zealand it is possible to get cheaper boat paint but I think that if you are going to put in all the prep work then you might as well spend what is only a very little bit more money and get a top quality paint which is going to last and look good for a few years.

If you are going to paint your boat this way you need to make the job go as easily as possible and this means a scaffold plank at a good working height all the way around the boat. That way the paint will go on seamlessly. The ideal way to do the topcoat is to have one person rolling on the paint and a second person following behind to lay the paint off. You need to work fairly quickly with the top coat, especially in hot or windy conditions and it is also a good idea to use a brushing retardant in the top coats so you have more working time to lay the paint off nicely. You don't necessarily need to lay the paint off with a brush after rolling but doing this tends to give a better finish. 

For non skid finish on decks we have in New Zealand an acrylic non skid paint for marine and industrial applications. This lasts for years (a decade or more) and I am sure there must be similar products available in other countries.

Thank you David.  I suspect our boat did not use as extensive as a process as you suggested and we are going to need to address it at some point.  The boat was completed in 2011 and already needs a new paint job (as you can see from the pictures I uploaded in the files section of the JRA website).  There is a fair amount of weeping from several of the fixtures on deck and the whole thing just looks like it needs to be start from afresh.  I appreciate your suggestions and will look into Interlux painting systems.  Thank you for your reply.


Jason

Hello Jason,

We are just down the road from you in Long Beach, CA.   I don't like to paint much so I break it up into parts.  Last year I hired a guy who does bright work around the docks and he painted the top sides with 2 part polyurethane by Interlux.  He did the job for a very reasonable $1500 with the boat in the water at the dock.  This painter is not in the area any longer. This year I renewed the nonskid with a New Zealand product called Kiwigrip.  I also did the caprail and the rub rail with a single stage polyurethane also from Interlux.  Next year I plan to paint the remainder of the deck, possibly with water based paint.  This year's costs for materials come to about $300.  

If you can do some work yourself that is great.  If not look around the dock during the week to see if someone is painting or doing varnish work.  Or ask other boaters on the dock to see who they use. They will probably give you a much more reasonable estimate.  Good luck.

Henry