Troubleshooting the Junk Rig from previous owner

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  • 26 Apr 2015 21:09
    Reply # 3317146 on 3230014
    Deleted user
    Thanks a lot guys!

    Unfortunately, because the boat needed too much repairs (and still needs some) we missed the time to cross the Atlantic. I left my friend in Spain to finish the repairs and came back to earn some money for the next season.

    Meanwhile I will gather the ideas and will prepare everything I can.


    Thanks to all of you, the forum was really helpful!

  • 22 Apr 2015 12:53
    Reply # 3312208 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    Hi Shemaya. On Paradox we've used stay covers over the batten parrels - slippery, flexible, easy to cut, UV proof but I reckon your cable tie thingies will be even better (and cheaper).

    Last modified: 22 Apr 2015 12:54 | Deleted user
  • 20 Apr 2015 01:58
    Reply # 3308255 on 3230014

    For the squeaking batten parrels, perhaps this stuff? Spiral electrical cable wrap (and check out the glow-in-the-dark version available!) Friends use this (though not, so far as I know, the glow-in-the-dark kind) on their junk rig not because of squeaking, but to reduce friction, for easier sail raising and lowering. This winter I've been adding it (in boring black), for the same reason – looking forward to testing shortly. For the banging of the battens, we've put clear vinyl tubing on the aluminum tube, and the whole business slides inside the batten pocket, which mostly protects the vinyl tubing from the sun. The pockets have seatbelt webbing also, where they rub against the mast, to prevent chafe. Both of these ideas were found somewhere on this website (heaven only knows where), when I was planning all this. In sea trials last September/October the overall arrangement seemed to work well – with luck I'll know a whole lot more about it by a few months from now.

    Cheers,
    Shemaya

  • 19 Apr 2015 21:33
    Reply # 3308096 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    Hi Evgeney. Rubber buffers weren't a problem on the Sunbird. I was thinking of the type you see on the side of e.g. wooden dinghies - this sort of thing. Obviously the smaller area of the buffer/fender in contact with the mast, the better. If you're in anything of a seaway the motion of the boat keeps the battens moving relative to the mast, so friction tends to be limited.

    Last modified: 22 Apr 2015 12:56 | Deleted user
  • 19 Apr 2015 20:37
    Reply # 3308063 on 3230014
    Deleted user
    Hi Brian,

    Thanks for your advises. If I use rubber, won't it make a problem for battens to slide against the mast?

  • 12 Apr 2015 11:23
    Reply # 3295139 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    Hi Evginny. My wife and I sailed a Sunbird 32 junk schooner for 30 years so I recognise all the problems you've mentioned. Great to see that you are gradually solving them one by one, and that the site's regulars are helping out so well as usual. My wife and I now sail a Freedom 39 which we converted to schooner junk and are slowly revisiting things all over again.

    You may find that you can ease the sail-lifting problem even more by fitting a strong strop (=line) between the deck and your new halyard blocks. The aim is to make the angle between the two line directions as big as possible = less friction. Regarding the slap of battens against the masts, foam (yes UV may be a problem) or 'rubber' buffers (as used on dinghy gunwhales) can help: you can rivet or screw the latter on.

    Sailing downwind with a schooner is a pleasure, especially goosewinged in the right conditions. Annie has given great advice; it's really down to you and how your boat performs with the sail hauled in hard or eased out. Reefing is of course important wherever you place the sail. Generally we haul it in tight once it starts flapping from side to side. This helps stop the boat rolling and takes unfair pressure off the foremast. I remember Robin Blain of Sunbirds telling me once of the time he and Alan Boswell, who designed Sunbirds and was a partner in Sunbird Yachts, scared Needlespar who supplied the masts by crossing the Solent in a F8 from behind with all sail set: not to be advised but a good test then of what some now consider a weak foremast.

    Enjoy your boat. We are presently in Brest, France, but are aiming at the Med this summer. There are a few junks in the Med: check out our boat locations maps.

    Last modified: 12 Apr 2015 11:28 | Deleted user
  • 09 Apr 2015 23:02
    Reply # 3290708 on 3230014
    Deleted user
    Regarding the wadges - was thinking about something similar, good to know that there was someone who already tried it :)

    I don't mind ropes squeezing usually, but in the last lag it suddenly became REALLY loud, especially for the aluminium boat . I'll try to wash it, may be some salt got into.

    Got interesting idea from one guy here: he saw junk rig schooner who used shock cord with plastic balls on it as a batten parrels to solve this issue. Did someone else tried it?

  • 07 Apr 2015 06:24
    Reply # 3284717 on 3283287
    Evgeniy Goldshtein wrote:

    Ok, sailing on the main with foresail sheeted to the center line worked for me.

    Well, that's good news, anyway.

    Could you guys tell what solutions exist for making the sailing more quiet? 

    In my case I have a nice "boom" when the battens hit the mast (on a light wind usually), 

    This is particularly noticeable with a metal mast.  Your best bet is to keep the batten parrels pretty tight and perhaps use contact cement to stick something like closed-cell foam to the battens where they hit the mast.

    squeaks from battens and/or ropes rubbing the mast

    You could try putting some grease on the ropes if it really irritates you.  But I find it quite a comforting and companionable noise, myself.

    and lately squeaks from the wood cones that holds the mast in the partners.

    This sounds like your wedges are moving.  I have used an unorthodox but so far successful method of both preventing them from moving and from squeaking: I sent some foaming polyurethane glue ("Gorilla") down the gaps.  Not enough completely to glue it all up, but enough to turn all the wedges into one more-or-less solid one.  I doubt the glue will stick particularly well to either the mast or the partners, but can no doubt chisel some of the wedges out if I have to.  If your wedges are very good ones, I suggest you number them, remove them, lightly grease mast and partners and then put them back in order before adding the glue, to make them easier to remove another time.

    Masts and battens are made of aluminium and yard, boom and battens also covered with PVC pipe in the area where it touches the mast.

    I've heard about foaming the battens, but how could it hold the sun?

    Thanks!

    Sounds like things are starting to work out for you.  Very good news.
  • 06 Apr 2015 20:57
    Reply # 3283420 on 3230014

    Hi Evgeniy, 

    Have a look at Slieve's c and sj file under Junk information; public domain files, chapter 11, page 32. There is a sketch there of a combined batten parrel + downhaul. Tension on the downhaul holds the battens hard against the mast, which may help prevent them knocking.

    I intend to try this idea out in my new junk rig.

    Cheers, Asmat

  • 06 Apr 2015 19:24
    Reply # 3283287 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    Ok, sailing on the main with foresail sheeted to the center line worked for me.

    Could you guys tell what solutions exist for making the sailing more quiet? 

    In my case I have a nice "boom" when the battens hit the mast (on a light wind usually), squeaks from battens and/or ropes rubbing the mast and lately squeaks from the wood cones that holds the mast in the partners.

    Masts and battens are made of aluminium and yard, boom and battens also covered with PVC pipe in the area where it touches the mast.

    I've heard about foaming the battens, but how could it hold the sun?

    Thanks!

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