Troubleshooting the Junk Rig from previous owner

  • 27 Feb 2015 17:00
    Reply # 3237058 on 3230014
    Anonymous

    Evgeniy,

    This thread gives details of a bend you can use to attach your block to the yard, so you can experiment with different positions without altering the existing fittings, or making extra holes in the yard.  Some of the links to external sites no longer work, unfortunately.

    Roy. 

  • 27 Feb 2015 16:35
    Reply # 3237040 on 3230014
    Deleted user
    Is there any particular problems with moving the halyard connection point? What I was thinking is to to move it aft and use the boom downhaul to move the foresail about half meter forward. Then to install and use luff parrel on the mainsail to move it a little aft as well.

    Hope the weather will allow me to do it in a few days...

    Please comment it, as I would like to plan the job as well as possible to do it fast in an open weather window.

    Thanks

    P.S. It's a short time fix that I need to do as I don't have the time for serious changes. I'm thinking about cutting the foresail to a smaller size in a future and probably installing the aft bowsprit.


    It's a short time fix that I need to do as I don't have the time for serious changes. I'm thinking about cutting the foresail to a smaller size in a future and probably installing the aft bowsprit.
    It's a short time fix that I need to do as I don't have the time for serious changes. I'm thinking about cutting the foresail to a smaller size in a future and probably installing the aft bowsprit.
  • 25 Feb 2015 17:53
    Reply # 3235224 on 3235199
    Deleted user
    Evgeniy

    I would not move the halyard connection more aft than the 50% point - there are others more experienced than me who may like to comment.

    To move the sail forward during normal use you would then snug the yard forward to the mast with the yard hauling parrel, and draw the foot forward by hauling on the boom downhaul after slacking the luff hauling parrel to allow that movement.

    You could also make sure the main is well aft using the luff hauling parrels on that sail.

    If this still does not give the clearance you require you might have to think about modifying the sail or even moving the mast!

    Last modified: 25 Feb 2015 17:55 | Deleted user
  • 25 Feb 2015 17:31
    Reply # 3235199 on 3230014
    Deleted user
    So, correct me if I'm wrong, the only options to move sail forward are:

    1. To move halyard connector aft.

    2. Install boom downhaul

    To move sail aft:

    1. Move halyard connector forward

    2. Use luff hauling parrel

    3. Use tack parrel


    Any other options? How far do you think can I move the halyard connector without harming anything too much?


  • 24 Feb 2015 17:51
    Reply # 3234082 on 3234068
    Deleted user
    Evgeniy Goldshtein wrote:

    Not sure though if I can make them longer on foresail, I guess it would allow the sail to move backward on the mast, no?

    The fixed parrels are not there to prevent fore-and-aft movement of the sail - in fact they should be long enough to allow it. The hauling parrels control the fore-and-aft positon. Yard hauling parrel, luff hauling parrel, and usually on Sunbird rigs, a boom downhaul from mid-boom to a deck block at the foot of the mast, which can pull the sail forward against the luff hauling parrel. (I don't see this on your photo).

    Take a look at the diagram at the bottom of this page for a typical Sunbird parrel layout.


    Last modified: 24 Feb 2015 18:00 | Deleted user
  • 24 Feb 2015 17:32
    Reply # 3234068 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    Hi David and Chris,

    Good to know about battens parrels, I knew something wrong there. Not sure though if I can make them longer on foresail, I guess it would allow the sail to move backward on the mast, no?

    When I took the picture, it was a little windy, so I raised only foresail and forgot to tension the yard hauling parrel, that's why it slacks. I'll try to do a better ones ASAP. The length of the yard is 420cm. Halyard is connected at 200cm from the fore end and yard hauling parrel is connected 250cm from the fore end of the yard.

    I don't really know what was the idea behind making both sails and masts equal and so close one to another... Anyway, I need to position sails and foresails blocks in a best possible way in those circumstances. For this matter, I think I need to move foresail as forward as possible and main as aft as possible. What do you guys think about it?

    Thanks for helping.

    Evgeniy

  • 24 Feb 2015 09:29
    Reply # 3233776 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    Evgeniy,

    Your fixed batten parrels are definitely too slack, and too short.

    The pictures with the foresails raised show a couple of things:

    1. Your yard hauling parrel is very slack - if you tighten this up it will pull the yard forward significantly, allowing you to trim the foot of the sail more forward and give more clearance between the fore sheets and main sail luff.

    2. The yard hauling parrel and halyard have been attached to the yard aft of the centre point, presumably to deal with this problem of clearance, common on schooner rigs.

    Would be useful to have a photo with both sails raised and properly trimmed fore and aft.

    Chris

  • 24 Feb 2015 06:27
    Reply # 3233750 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    Thanks for uploading the photos. I will certainly have a study of these over the next several days and see if I can come up with some suggestions. Other members may also be able to help.

    I can see straight off though by looking at a couple of the photos that your batten parrels are a real mess, all tangled in amongst each other and quite short so this could be where a lot of the friction is coming from when raising the sail. I will try and find some photos of the arrangement on my own boat and upload them, or take some photos next weekend when I am out sailing. I would make the batten parrels a lot longer, say from the forward end of the batten and going up to a meter aft of the mast. You will need some way of locating them on the batten so they do not slide forward. Some people use  stainless steel saddles for this but I use two s/s pins that stop the parrels sliding forward on the batten. By having the parrels longer you can pull them quite tight when the sail is lowered which will help keep the sail against the mast (which will help prevent the slatting against the mast of the sail), but by being longer the parrels are actually in contact with a much smaller surface area of the mast so less friction when raising and lowering the sail. Hope that makes sense! I and a few other members are using webbing for the batten parrels and my own experience is that the webbing can be pulled a lot tighter but slides up and down the mast a lot more easily than thin diameter rope.

    I just checked and there are a few photos of my sail and batten parrels in the 'New Sail' album in my members profile.

     

    Last modified: 24 Feb 2015 06:30 | Deleted user
  • 23 Feb 2015 21:31
    Reply # 3233423 on 3230014
    Anonymous

    Hi Evgeniy,

    Thanks for uploading your photos to the Tech Forum Illustrations page.  Could you please add some captions to the photos so members will know what is being shown or asked about.  This becomes more important over time, as photos added after yours will push those already on the page further down, making it harder for people to know what they are looking at.  There have been a number of photos added without captions recently, not just yours, so anyone reading this might like to add captions to photos they have uploaded.

    Please also bear in mind that this forum, as well as some others, is open to the public, so think hard about putting on information which you might not like broadcasting - email addresses, phone numbers, exact locations, etc.

    Enjoy your boat, and enjoy your cruising.  Good luck with sorting out the rig.

    Last modified: 23 Feb 2015 23:51 | Anonymous
  • 23 Feb 2015 20:35
    Reply # 3232794 on 3230014
    Deleted user

    I uploaded the pictures, please have a look.


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