Bolger as 29 conversion

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  • 15 Mar 2015 19:16
    Reply # 3252979 on 3152125
    Deleted user
    The marina just delivered the boat on friday March 13th. It is has 4" water and there is some bubbles delamination of fiberglass from the plywood at the hull sides and many leaks through the topsides. It was sitting with a foot or more of water at their yard when I checked on it before it was shipped. I guess the marina is not responsible for their boat as I did not have access to it until after it was paid for and they didn't care for it during that time. It was also stripped of any useful hardware. Some of the leaks are at hardware that has been removed and some are unknown. Still other leaks come from places I expected such as the lawn furniture seats in the cockpit and the boom gallows. The off center boards I still regard as a problem as well as they also seem to be leaking and they show exposed wood from the decks down to 4" above the bottom of the hull. I will post pics and show you the offending leaks.
    Last modified: 15 Mar 2015 19:22 | Deleted user
  • 11 Feb 2015 13:39
    Reply # 3223410 on 3152125
    Deleted user

    You might try this link:

    http://leow.de/friends/John/AS29JR3.html

    let me know if this works for you.

  • 09 Feb 2015 05:32
    Reply # 3220907 on 3166743
    Deleted user
    Leo Foltz wrote:Just came across this thread and would like to go back to the original posting. My questions are: What kind of sailing do you have in mind? Is there a main mast already that you can use? Is the tabernacel built in the bow? Leo
    Yes the tabernacels are in place.  I cant seem to access your photos you posted over at yahoo. Do you have them on flickr? I have been working 6 days a week for a while now and have not had any time for research on the conversion. looking forward to the boat coming home then I will cut back on my day job to 40 a week and focus on the boat.
  • 27 Dec 2014 20:07
    Reply # 3177268 on 3169892
    Deleted user
    John Evans wrote: ... perhaps a reddish sail as the scale seems appropriate.
    When I was in the process of converting, I posted some drawings to the junkrig yahoo group. One shows the Center of Effort of  a single Reddish main compared to the Bolger gaff yawl.Another drawing shows a smaller main sail and enlarged standing lug mizzen. 

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/junkrig/files/Twilight/

    If you decide for a single sail rig, you may use the sailcut8 program to modify the traditional/Reddish design: make the battens longer and the luff shorter. The halyard needs some free space to swing around the mast.

    The scantlings of the Bolger mast are too skinny IMHO. You may think twice before you hang too much sail on it. 

    As a carpenter you might have some scrap material laying around. Why not screw some wood and a sheet of plastic together, haul it up your mast and see how it behaves?

    From time to time I put some video on youtube. Search for gassho88

    btw we love our mizzen :-)

    Leo


  • 26 Dec 2014 21:33
    Reply # 3176992 on 3169894
    John Evans wrote: Dave, I have tried to email you through your website but I can't seem to get one to send. I am not very good with computers, my wife laughs and says I am a "luddite".

    I would really like to see some close ups of the hardware and leeboards on Luna and slacktide if you are not too busy with your build.

    What type of wood did you use and how free from knots was it? As for the mizzen how about a traditional sprit sail and simply scandalize it to reduce sail?

    Hi John,

    You can reach me at triloboats swirly gmail point com.

    I'll look around for close-ups. We're terrible picture takers, but I can take some of ST's by special order. When you write, please let me know what you'd like to see.

    RE wood: Not sure which application you're picturing, so I'll summarize.

    Masts and booms were grown spruce (tight knot) or better; Battens of (2x2) clear, vertical grain red cedar.

    OCBs (Off-Center Boards = Lee Boards that can't wing out to windward) were tight knot fir, 2 x 2x, laid diagonally... These came out heavier than need be, I think... might try a layer of 1x + 2x to cut the weight by 1/4), or even 2x 1x2 (cuts weight by half) of select tight knot or better.

    On SLACKTIDE, we used 2 x 1/2in ply sandwiching 1in, tight knot, red cedar. Still mighty heavy. New owner is considering davits to handle raising clear of the guards with mechanical advantage.

    Guards were 2in (2x would work, too), lag screwed from inboard and supported by 2, diagonal, aluminum struts from their outboard edge to a bulkhead point higher on the hull.

    *****

    I'm curious as to why you're considering traveling boards... we did it to clear the large side windows, when raised, but that may not be worth the (considerable) effort - both for implementation and handling - on the AS29. As it is, it has a considerable, mid-ships 'blindspot' where its internal OCBs are located.

    More generally, you might consider putting off the outboards until you see how the current boards behave. I personally wouldn't build them that way, but in an acquired vessel, I wouldn't go out of my way to avoid them.

    Some of their main drawbacks are already in place, leaving only any handling issues (e.g., the possibility of getting stuck), which aren't considered to be serious obstacles by those who favor them.

    Look forward to hearing from you!

    Dave

  • 14 Dec 2014 02:04
    Reply # 3169894 on 3159210
    Deleted user
    Dave Zeiger wrote:

    Hi John,

    A few thoughts:

    RE AS29: In my humble opinion, the AS concept is one of the great maritime innovations of the last century. Bolger wrote that he thought the MANATEE was contending successor to the Herreshoff MEADOWLARK (a cruising design for amateur DIY). I consider the AS line to be very much more so, especially in the age of second growth timber.

    RE Ease of conversion - I'm with Arne. Should be easy enough to convert the main to junk. The mizzen can be left as is (more on this later)... it's hard to beat for simplicity.

    RE Balance - Phil (Bolger) is using his standard 'trick' in the AS29 rig. The mizzen is either all standing or struck. The main is designed with a diagonal leech... as you reef, the center of effort moves forward as area is reduced. Net effect is to maintain overall balance against the constant area of the mizzen.

    To reproduce this effect, one of the junk sailforms with a diagonal leech would help. Quadrangular sails - such as seen on many traditional craft, Slocum's LIBERDADE, and Bolger's usual junk sail choice - seem to be off the JRA radar, but I'm not sure why. Possibly due to reefing geometry considerations mentioned in Hasler/McCleod? Pics I've seen of traditional boats so rigged seem to furl without trouble.

    W avoided the issue on LUNA (AS31 following the AS29's lead) by using two large sails (cat schooner, in that case) which can be balanced against each other.

    In practice, it's likely you can sail under well trimmed main of any shape (e.g., a Sunbird or Reddish sailform), and adjust mizzen balance via its sheets, under and over trimming as necessary. I think it will be a matter of nuance.

    Conversions to JR often allow an increase in sail size, as it's so quick and easy to reef (Bolger endorses this approach). By adding balance and extending aft, you'll pick up considerable area over the original gaff rig. If the resulting aspect ratio seems low, you can always go up.

    RE Mizzen - Consider a somewhat larger mizzen, especially if it must overcome balance issues mentioned above. We also wished we had larger one on LUNA to counter the considerable forward windage of the furled JR sail bundle, wind-cocked or at anchor.

    Maybe start with a taller mast and Tyvek mizzen till you get a size that fits? Can always cut down!

    We had great luck setting the mizzen with no haulyard. We fixed a light line at the masthead, led to a cleat low on the mast.

    To strike sail, push the inbrd end of the sprit vertical (bring iits outbrd end down and to the mast). Roll up the bunt, and spiral wrap sail and sprit to mast using the light line. Cleat off and done. 'Whip' the line in high winds to get first wraps as high as possible.

    RE Leeboards: We love 'em!

    A retaining cable (our preference) or bar means you don't have to tend them between tacks (they become Off-Center Boards, rather than lee boards).

    We find that they tend to perform better when placed further forward than I expect. In both LUNA and SLACKTIDE, we still have a little lee helm with sails trimmed for the wind and boards all the way forward. Have to crank some weather helm in with over trimmed after sail.

    I notice board placement is far fwd in Thames Barges and many others of similar type... could be an effect of the very firm bilges?

    Consider spanning bulkheads with your (leeboard) guards. We didn't on LUNA, and an... er... intimate encounter with a dock pushed the unbacked guard into the hull hard enough to crack veneers. Looks like the AS has plenty to choose from. Never hurts for the guards to go longer than necessary to reach the next blkhd... they make great boarding steps!

    *****

    Hope all this helps... good luck with the conversion!

    Dave Z



    Thanks for posting Dave, I have tried to email you through your website but I can't seem to get one to send. I am not very good with computers, my wife laughs and says I am a "luddite". I would really like to see some close ups of the hardware and leeboards on Luna and slacktide if you are not too busy with your build. Yes I agree spanning the bulkheads would be good insurance. What type of wood did you use and how free from knots was it? As for the mizzen how about a traditional sprit sail and simply scandalize it to reduce sail?
    Last modified: 14 Dec 2014 02:21 | Deleted user
  • 14 Dec 2014 01:51
    Reply # 3169892 on 3166743
    Deleted user
    Leo Foltz wrote:Just came across this thread and would like to go back to the original posting. My questions are: What kind of sailing do you have in mind? Is there a main mast already that you can use? Is the tabernacel built in the bow? Leo
    First of all, thanks for all the input from everyone!  I am a Yankee living on Vancouver island BC Canada. I intend to sail my boat up and down the inside passage and in and around the many islands and inlets we have from here and including Alaska.  The boat is brand new and complete minus the sails and fittings, it has both masts as shown in the plans online.  My plan so far is to put travelling leeboards on it a la Slack tide and perhaps a reddish sail as the scale seems appropriate.  I will post pictures of the boat in a few weeks when it comes home.
  • 09 Dec 2014 13:12
    Reply # 3166743 on 3152125
    Deleted user
    Just came across this thread and would like to go back to the original posting. My questions are: What kind of sailing do you have in mind? Is there a main mast already that you can use? Is the tabernacel built in the bow? Leo
  • 05 Dec 2014 12:14
    Reply # 3164507 on 3152125

    Chris notes that "Hasler himself said that Jester did not go well to windward. I wonder, however, how many boats of her size with more ‘modern’ Western junk rigs, could make the Atlantic crossing, using Hasler’'s northern, windward route, in less than 38 days?"

    Reminds me of that old saying, "It's not the ships, it's the (men/women) in them."  You can sail just about any type of boat and rig (almost) anywhere, if you have enough gumption.  Hasler had bucketfuls of it.  I am about to sail out into the Tasman Sea on Sunday with wild, squally thunderstorms lashing the entire east coast and my gumption levels are distinctly low!  Trouble is, I want to get to Sydney for Christmas, to meet one of my brothers whom I haven't seen for more than 20 years, so I cannot wait.

    My rig is more weatherly than Jester's but that's only significant when you are sailing inshore. In the ocean, in boisterous weather, no small boat is weatherly.  I think Jester, Arion and the AS29 would all fare about the same on a long passage to windward in the open sea.  It would all depend on the skipper.

  • 05 Dec 2014 11:37
    Reply # 3164502 on 3164312
    Deleted user
    Karlis Kalnins wrote:

    I find it very interesting that it represents this alternate western JR lineage. Was there ever crossover, did VanLoan read Hasler or vice-versa? I wonder what  Chris Gallienne has to say on the subject.

    OK, now you got me started.

    This is a very interesting question. It’s very easy to generalise that in the early days of the development of the Western junk rig (1960’s) US junkies followed the South China/Hong Kong model a la Tom Colvin/Michael Kasten, whilst over on this side we followed the model of Hasler & McLeod - a more rectangular  (North China) pattern, albeit with triangular top panels. The examples of Van Loan in the US and Dmitri LeForestier in Europe show this theory to be an over-simplification.

    I have no idea why Blondie Hasler adopted for Jester the sail plan he did -– it has been likened to the tall rectangular sails of the north Chinese riverine junks, although his sailplan differed in having convex luff and leech. Hasler’'s later designs, e.g. for Ilala and Redlapper, had straight parallel leech and luff. This then formed the model for his ‘'standard’' sailplan, with the yard raised to a higher angle and triangular top panels, developed with Jock McLeod from the mid-sixties onward and first seen on Galway Blazer.

    The single sailplan presented in 1981 by Derek van Loan, apparently based on his work with the junk rig since the 1960’s, is very similar to that of Ilala/Redlapper, with a slightly higher yard angle. Perhaps the originator of this rig saw Ilala in the US in 1964? Who knows? It is also a little reminiscent of the shape of Newbridge’'s so-called ‘Hi-Power’ rig - although Van Loan pre-dates this rig - and like that one, seems to have been something of an evolutionary dead-end. Having said that, given that Van Loan’s book ran to 4 editions it must have had some success. Does anyone know of any that were built and sailed extensively?

    Van Loan points out that, rather than being riverine Chinese in origin, this was the basic sail shape of the ocean-going trading junks. Of course those sails were implemented in very different materials on very different hulls. The Van Loan sailplan, together with the similar ones from Jester & Ilala, would seem to be completely sub-optimal when executed in Western materials and built flat. Hasler himself said that Jester did not go well to windward. I wonder, however, how many boats of her size with more ‘modern’ Western junk rigs, could make the Atlantic crossing, using Hasler’'s northern, windward route, in less than 38 days?
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