Thanks Neil, Slieve and Robert,

Sounds like it will be worth making some cheap trial blocks with different drillings to see which works best.

Robert, how deep did you drill your cone shaped hole? I'm also using a 1/2" pin so the dimensions would apply to my yuloh too. Common sense would tell me it needs to be reasonably deep so the socket doesn't jump off the pin, but too deep and there's the chance of straining the pin and/or socket if the yuloh shaft is suddenly loaded, eg you lose your footing on deck and accidentally lean heavily on the shaft.

A light lashing or bungee to hold the yuloh down onto the pin sounds a good idea.



Jerry

Hi Neil

I'm not sure what you mean by 'morticing the socket'. I've heard of westerners using bungee to keep the yuloh on the pin, which seems to be cheating, and of easterners using some iron work around the tip of the blade to add weight and keep it from floating and lifting the yuloh of the pin, but to me morticing suggests chiselling a deep hole in the loom, which may work, but may weaken the loom.

I'm off to bed now so if you write again I'll answer tomorrow.

Goodnight, Slieve.

I've built a yuloh for my 18ft double ender as per Slieve's instructions and have made a round ended 12mm stainless pin permanently mounted at the stern, as shown in Bob Groves' Easy Go yuloh article. I'm about to make a socket for the yuloh from couple of pieces of 9mm tufnol sheet to form a block that's screwed to the underside of the yuloh shaft. I'd like to know how best to drill the hole in the pad. Should it be parallel sided and slightly bigger diameter than the pin to allow the yuloh to rock from side to side, or would it be better drilled in a cone shape to achieve the same effect?

How deep does the hole need to be, and how much pivot should I allow for? Some articles suggest a very small angle of 8-10 degrees implying that the socket hole should be quite restrictive to limit the rocking. Any advice?


Jerry