Hull / Deck joint repair -- wish me luck.

  • 21 Mar 2020 11:23
    Reply # 8846594 on 8839546
    Anonymous wrote:
    Arne wrote:

    Zane,
    [...] I struggle a bit with identifying the bits on the photo. Could you clarify a bit?[...]

    I found some nice photos of a Contessa 26 refit here. The photo posted by Zane seems to show a small part of the hull bolted to the inside of a larger piece of the deck. It looks, to me, like the flange on the hull section has been cut off.



    Good man Scott.  That looks like a cool restoration of a Contessa by someone at the Flickr site!

  • 18 Mar 2020 13:25
    Reply # 8839546 on 8836614
    Arne wrote:

    Zane,
    [...] I struggle a bit with identifying the bits on the photo. Could you clarify a bit?[...]

    I found some nice photos of a Contessa 26 refit here. The photo posted by Zane seems to show a small part of the hull bolted to the inside of a larger piece of the deck. It looks, to me, like the flange on the hull section has been cut off.


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  • 18 Mar 2020 11:31
    Reply # 8839282 on 8836513
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    The sketch below shows how the deck and hull of my Albin Viggen, Malena was tied together with a string of bolts. There was some sort of glue or putty in the joint as well. Anyway, it leaked badly.

    My first fix was to add a full-length string of epoxy, as shown in red.
    This helped a lot, but I still noticed the odd drop of water hanging from a few bolts on the inside. Then I painted the whole deck with 2-pot polyurethane paint, and that did the trick. I could see how the paint crept in under the bolt heads and sealed it. Job done.

    Note: I am careful to never use any silicone on my boats, as these product result in a hopelessly poor bond for paint, later.

    I seriously recommend painting over screws or bolt heads. Much easier than glassing.

    Arne


  • 18 Mar 2020 09:10
    Reply # 8839098 on 8839034
    Anonymous wrote:

    I have had some experience with this type of problem. When you get your boat hauled out I am happy to come and look. This should not cost too much money provided you can DIY. It will require a little bit of resin, fiberglass cloth  maybe a little bit of unpleasant work, and the cost of whatever you may choose to cap the finished join with. But best to start with some experienced advice.


    Thanks David, that's very good of you.  

    Email sent . Cheers 

  • 18 Mar 2020 08:13
    Reply # 8839034 on 8836513

    I have had some experience with this type of problem. When you get your boat hauled out I am happy to come and look. This should not cost too much money provided you can DIY. It will require a little bit of resin, fiberglass cloth  maybe a little bit of unpleasant work, and the cost of whatever you may choose to cap the finished join with. But best to start with some experienced advice.

  • 18 Mar 2020 00:04
    Reply # 8838602 on 8837069
    Anonymous wrote:

    Your solution seems reasonable enough.... Roger Taylor did this on Ming Ming II and I think also the first Ming Ming..... He might be someone to talk to.   Hull deck joints seem to be a universal trouble spot....


                                                        H.W.


    I don't remember Roger doing that on MIngming 2.  Will have to go back and look at that video series....

  • 17 Mar 2020 14:42
    Reply # 8837069 on 8836513

    Your solution seems reasonable enough.... Roger Taylor did this on Ming Ming II and I think also the first Ming Ming..... He might be someone to talk to.   Hull deck joints seem to be a universal trouble spot....


                                                        H.W.

  • 17 Mar 2020 10:52
    Reply # 8836681 on 8836614
    Anonymous wrote:

    Zane,
    welcome back. 

    Now, I struggle a bit with identifying the bits on the photo. Could you clarify a bit?

    What is the problem? Is the boat falling apart or are you just having a leaky joint?.

    Arne

    Me too Arne.  That photo is from Co26bForum.

    I think it's not oriented the fight way up.

    My boat leaks when the rail goes under, to windward 15-20 knots. Marcus could see it coming in spurts when we did the overnight trip to Bay of Islands.  

    So, no, not falling apart, but not seaworthy for anything other than gentle windward, or easy downwind sailing.

    The hull / deck joint must be fixed. Perhaps it's not surprising this is required on a nearly 50 year old boat.

    Cheers 







  • 17 Mar 2020 09:35
    Reply # 8836614 on 8836513
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Zane,
    welcome back. 

    Now, I struggle a bit with identifying the bits on the photo. Could you clarify a bit?

    What is the problem? Is the boat falling apart or are you just having a leaky joint?.

    Arne

  • 17 Mar 2020 07:57
    Message # 8836513

    It is with much trepidation that I am taking my Pango to a boatyard of a friend of mine works at next month, here in Auckland, to finally deal with the hoary chestnut that has been eating away at me.  

    I say trepidation, as I know from experience of refitting two small boats, that rabbit holes can appear, and bank balances can be drained.  Hopefully the repair is straightforward and I can once again have utmost faith in my boat.

    I have attached a close up pic of the hull deck joint of a Canadian Contessa that I found on the all but defunct Canadian Contessa website.   My idea is to glass in the hull/deck joint (including counter-sinking and filling all rub-rail / toe-rail screw holes) after digging and picking and removing all traces of old sealant.  
    Apparently on Canadian Contessa's of my vintage, the hull/deck attachment was accomplished with 3/8" rivets.  I don't plan to remove these if that does prove to be the case, just remove and fill in all the rub-rail / toe-rail screw holes.

    Any thoughts welcome.  And, yes, I'm back.

    Cheers in advance for any tips.





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    Last modified: 17 Mar 2020 09:28 | Anonymous member
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