Comments invited on schooner sailplan

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  • 30 Mar 2012 20:09
    Reply # 872704 on 872150
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Gary,

    no, the outer boltrope is stouter. On Malena’s 32sqm sail I used a 7mm pre-stretched 3-strand rope, made for being used as a boltrope. I guess 8 or 10mm sounds right for your boat if you have long-distance cruising in mind.

    Arne

    PS: must try that link function: testlink This should show my new electric winch handle

    Last modified: 30 Mar 2012 20:14 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 30 Mar 2012 19:13
    Reply # 872658 on 872150
    Deleted user
    Gary, the rig looks sweet! I totally concur with Arne about keeping the yard long enough not to foul up the lazy jacks ---  even with a standard HM rig we have fouled up in rough conditions and its a real problem to sort out at sea! Tony
  • 30 Mar 2012 18:14
    Reply # 872604 on 872150
    Deleted user
    Re: link
    In the edit window, when the chosen word is selected, click on the "link" button, choose "insert link", a dialogue box pops up for you to paste the address.

    Benford drew the baby badger line of dories with a finer bow than the others, its a relatively recent design from him. Ours is stretched 10%, so is even trimmer. She has a 'cruising' displacement of 4,750 kg. (Which I deduce from Benford's site, means she is 3,500kg empty). Pretty lightweight, I imagine this hull needs a heavy load, dories are supposed to perform better that way. I've chosen the fin keel design with lead as low as possible, I think dories need all the help they can get regarding stiffness.... So hope she performs well enough.

    Question regards bolt rope:
    I read in your pdfs you used 5mm for inner bolt rope. Is the outer bolt rope same size?
    Last modified: 30 Mar 2012 18:28 | Deleted user
  • 30 Mar 2012 17:35
    Reply # 872563 on 872150
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Stavanger, Friday

    Gary, yes, the link works ok. How do you do to make such a short link?

    A little more on downhauls: The only downhaul I have used is a makeshift version on my dinghy Broremann. On Broremann there is a bungee tack-line which is attached to the boom with a hook. When I take a reef or two, I just move that hook to the batten parrel of the last reefed batten and then tension the halyard a bit. This gives a very good downhaul-effect and the bungee keeps me from tearing anything apart. If I were to fit downhauls to the bigger Johanna, I would actually attach the downhaul spans to the batten parrels just aft of the mast. This is partly because I don’t want to make more holes in the batten pockets, but also because the side-effect: When hauling down via the batten parrels, the battens will be hauled closer to the mast and thus reduce noise in light winds and old swell. Just an armchair-idea although it looked ok on Broremann.

    Arne

    PS. Your dory looks quite trim  -  what is her displacement?

  • 30 Mar 2012 16:24
    Reply # 872501 on 872150
    Deleted user
    Is all very clear Arne. I never would have thought of using a ring for the downhauls, I'll use that.
    I'm updating the file as I go. (Does the link work?)
    Last modified: 30 Mar 2012 16:29 | Deleted user
  • 30 Mar 2012 09:20
    Reply # 872287 on 872150
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

                                                                       Stavanger, Friday

    Gary

    As you may guess, I think your rig looks good. Here are a few comments.

    Yard and top battens: The short yard makes sense from a weight point of view. Just make sure it will not fall inside the topping lifts when furling the sail. If necessary a fairly light extension could be fitted to make it safe. The short yard also puts batten no. 1 and 2 under some compression so they may need to be made stronger than the others. If you see that these flexes when sailing in an ordinary breeze, then beef them up before going offshore. I would also have lengthened battens no 2 until their end are at least flush with the vertical leech of the sails (to avoid snags too often).

    HK parrels: Try to attach their aft end closer to the mast than on the drawing so they get less in conflict with the camber in the panels. Up to about 45° steepness seems to work.

    Downhauls: I have the same problem if I want to fit an ordinary PJR style downhaul on Johanna. I have wondered if one should skip the lead blocks at the mast and instead pass all the downhaul lines under an inverted u-shaped metal bar, made of 25mm ss-steel. That would let the downhaul spans too pass through. Even a wide hoop of thick rope may work. I also have thought of making each downhaul span with a 10mm bungee in the top third of it. The resulting flexibility would let the sail swing out to any side without overstressing the downhauls.

    I hope some of this makes sense.

    Arne

  • 30 Mar 2012 03:14
    Message # 872150
    Deleted user
    Before we start slicing into valuable Odyssey, I have put a sail plan up in my profile's album here for the site's brains trust to comment on.

    The parallel 4.4m battens are spaced 104cm apart on the main, the fabric is 162cm wide and am planning to use barrel cut method. (So camber is 8,9 or 10%..)

    Have identified a problem already, boom is too low for spanned downhauls to work..
    Can I get away with just a couple unspanned downhauls on battens #2 and 3?
    Last modified: 30 Mar 2012 18:19 | Deleted user
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