I've been eyeballing these:

https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevcon-brushless-sailboat-kit-5kw.html

https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevcon-brushless-sailboat-kit-10.5kw.html

Not sure how they compare with the QuietTorque but price is way lower and they're also 48 VDC brushless motors.

The reason for me to throw out my perfectly working diesel engine is that it barely fits in the engine room and maintenance is a nightmare due to the cockpit footwell taking up most of the remaining space. To access the back of the engine (or the filters, external cooling, gearbox/propshaft, batteries...) one has to be an advanced yoga master when going in through the lazarette and then somehow bend oneself in ways not possible for me, in order to reach most parts of the "engine room". I replaced a 120 Ah battery and that's something I would definitely not want to do again and I will have to next spring...

Options for me (pros/cons off the top of my head):

1. Inboard electric
Pros:
- Virtually maintenance-free
- Silent
- Responsive (starts immediately, instant full torque)
- Doesn't require dinosaur juice
- Weight of batteries can be effectively distributed
Cons:
- Expensive (batteries + charging) if long range is required

2. Remove the cockpit footwell (flush with the seats) and keep the diesel
Pros:
- Space to work on the engine
- Safety in rough weather (getting pooped)
Cons:
- Lowers resale value (but JR conversion will do that in any case, not a real consideration)

3. Replace with outboard engine
Pros:
- Inexpensive
- Easy maintenance
- Easy to replace anywhere anytime
- Combined with 2 (removing the footwell) would gain lots of space inside
- Get rid of prop+shaft (no leaking & improve sailing performance)
Cons:
- Horrible in a seaway with prop coming out of the water
- Aesthetically non-pleasing

At this point I'm torn between 1 and 2. Due to the hull shape (double-ender) an outboard well isn't really an option, otherwise 3 would be almost a no-brainer.

Jim wrote:

My motor arrived FedEx about 5 hours ago. It's been like unwrapping Christmas presents. The die is cast. The only direction now is forward!

Panels are Sanyo (now Panasonic)"hit"panels around 57 volts. I can take the panels down in just a couple of minutes if need be. Most importantly they can angle towards the sun.

 The Rolls "house" 6 volt batteries are 12+ years old and are mainly for the windlass and led lighting. The 8d batteries will be replaced hopefully with lithium one day. Less weight with more useful capacity etc. etc. The "Outback" solar controller is showing  76.8 volts IN and 53.4 OUT(on a hazy day) with these Sanyo panels.

  Most build a tower for solar panels. Since I don't sit in the cockpit, I placed them where I can angle or remove them quickly. Also, any loose sheets won't get entangled.

 I have 2 dedicated 100 watt solar panels for the house battery. They are attached to a pole that can be securely lashed at various places around the boat. The 220 watt panels are used only for propulsion and when I run refrigeration.

  I have had this set up for a few years and would do it again.

Thanks for all those pictures. They are worth thousands..... How you get the best out of your panels by improvising.

And thanks for your upbeat report. :-)

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

My batteries are  a holding bank where you put energy in just as efficiently as you draw out. I have never regretted large hi voltage solar panels (higher than 52 volts will charge bank without combining panels together). Solar panels are my main power source. I had to make room for them on NA29 but your boat should be easier. discounts on the same unit.

Do you have any pictures of your solar panel installation on Pake to show us?

Panels are Sanyo (now Panasonic)"hit"panels around 57 volts. I can take the panels down in just a couple of minutes if need be. Most importantly they can angle towards the sun.

 The Rolls "house" 6 volt batteries are 12+ years old and are mainly for the windlass and led lighting. The 8d batteries will be replaced hopefully with lithium one day. Less weight with more useful capacity etc. etc. The "Outback" solar controller is showing  76.8 volts IN and 53.4 OUT(on a hazy day) with these Sanyo panels.

  Most build a tower for solar panels. Since I don't sit in the cockpit, I placed them where I can angle or remove them quickly. Also, any loose sheets won't get entangled.

 I have 2 dedicated 100 watt solar panels for the house battery. They are attached to a pole that can be securely lashed at various places around the boat. The 220 watt panels are used only for propulsion and when I run refrigeration.

  I have had this set up for a few years and would do it again.

Jim wrote:

David wrote:

A 250 watt solar panel could be fitted as a kind of bimini, where a full width sprayhood normally goes over the companionway.

How would you see a panel or panels mounted on my "Baby Badger". I'm set up like the original Badger except I have a usual companionway, with a pram hood for the sliding hatch. Has anyone with a Badger mounted panels off the stern, over a wind vane self-steering gear?

The only way I can make sense of it, to get enough voltage and power, is to make a frame that goes from just aft of the mainmast, over the companionway and over part of the cockpit. This would have to have enough area to mount two of those 250W panels  or similar in series, so as to get a maximum power voltage of at least 20% more than your 48V batteries - at least 58V, which would be similar to the well-known scenario of charging a 12V battery at 14.4V.

Two of those semi-flexible panels, mounted on a base of thin plywood, mounted on a supportive frame, would be about the least you could get away with, I think, covering an area 1700mm x 2000m or 3400mm x 1000mm. That would be the minimum. If you could fit a pair of larger panels in this way, I think you should.