Bond sheet plywood to sheet steel?

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  • 26 Mar 2018 17:32
    Reply # 5998161 on 5997071
    Deleted user
    Paul Thompson wrote:

    Don't use wood on the outside of a steel boat. It is asking for trouble. No matter what you do, the bond will fail and corrosion will ocure. No matter how good it may look outside. I speak as one who has owned a steel boat for 27 years and I've built a few more for other people. Wood and steel don't go together outside... Inside is another story.


    Would you still think it a bad idea if the wood was saturated with diluted penetrating epoxy to make it immune to moisture before assembly and fitting into the cockpit?
  • 26 Mar 2018 05:47
    Reply # 5997267 on 5995742

    I think Paul is right, this seems like a nightmarish place to mix wood and steel.

    If the reason you didn't want to use steel was that you don't have welding equipment, most of the expense comes from the fit-up, not the welding.  If you cut all the steel yourself and have the surfaces cleaned back to bare steel, and the new pieces test fit, then the number of hours you need a welder for the actual welding is usually a manageable cost for a project like this.

  • 26 Mar 2018 01:53
    Reply # 5997071 on 5995742

    Don't use wood on the outside of a steel boat. It is asking for trouble. No matter what you do, the bond will fail and corrosion will ocure. No matter how good it may look outside. I speak as one who has owned a steel boat for 27 years and I've built a few more for other people. Wood and steel don't go together outside... Inside is another story.

  • 25 Mar 2018 17:17
    Reply # 5996444 on 5995742
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Nicholas,

    here is how I made a set of new  cockpit hatches for my Johanna, back in 1999. Johanna was an owner-finished version of the Alo28, so the hatches of this boat had been glued together from thin planks. With the glue failing, all the hatches were about to fall apart, and of course leaked a lot.

    On  taking a closer look, I found that the hatch openings had been well made with a moulded ridge and then a groove around it to drain away water. I therefore made the hatches from plain 15mm plywood. Instead of trying to make them as tight as submarine hatches, I simply skipped fitting gaskets. Instead, I made a simple ‘drip lip’ from Sikaflex, running continuously along the edges. See diagram and photos below.

    Having never seen this in use before, I tested it by laying old newspapers inside the cockpit benches (-trunks?). Paper from newspapers not only tells if it wet. It also tells if it has been wet. The result was perfectly good  -  dry newspapers. Maybe you can pick some ideas from this and use on your boat.

    I don’t claim that this will keep out all the water each time the cockpit is filled up (how often does that happen?), but if strapped down, they should only let in a few drops now and then.

    About making the foot well smaller: What about tailor-making one or two trunks which you secure in the foot-well? These will take up volume there, and in addition they will add storage space. I would of course have made them with the same sort of simple plywood lid as mentioned above.

    Good luck!

    Arne

      

    Last modified: 25 Mar 2018 23:27 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 24 Mar 2018 19:52
    Reply # 5995745 on 5995742
    Deleted user
    Nicholas Head wrote:

    So the point of this ramble. There seems little clear info or consensus on the best way to bond the two different materials. I understand the issue is about rate of expansion and contraction. Does anyone have knowledge or experience of doing this type of thing or have any recomendations as to how to achieve a high strength bond and seal between the two long term? Are there any better desgns of locker lid that I should consider?

    I have some other repairs to make at the interface of the two materials which will require the same type of bonding and sealing so keen to find a permanent high quality way of effecting these.
    Your thoughts will be most appreciated.

    Nick



    I would imagine that a good strong bond could easily be achieved with a suitable semi-flexible adhesive sealant. Sikaflex is the first product that comes to mind, but there will be other more suitable products. After all there are many high performance sports cars where the chassis is constructed from bonded, (not welded) aluminium. Probably the important thing would be to ensure that the face of the steel to which you are bonding is very clean and free of rust, and some sort of etching primer might be required on the steel. Plus some sort of mechanical fastener might be required along with the adhesive.  

    The real issue, apart from the bonding, would be keeping moisture out of the bonded area so you do not end up rust forming on the steel inside the bonded joint. A good example of this would be a bonded car windscreen where moisture can get in behind the adhesive sealant, and the lip on which the windscreen sits rusts away. 

    If you are intending to line the whole of your cockpit with plywood the best approach might be attach timber framing members to the steel through a combination of adhesive and through bolts, or stainless steel sheet metal screws, and then construct the new plywood cockpit inside the steel cockpit but mostly separated from the steel apart from the timber framing. You would need to pay a lot of attention to the cockpit drains so you do not get any leakage through these onto the steel behind.

    Last modified: 24 Mar 2018 21:51 | Deleted user
  • 24 Mar 2018 19:31
    Message # 5995742
    Deleted user

    My yacht is a construction of steel hull, decks and cockpit with ply and hardwood cabin coach roof. I now wish to address the replacement if her failing plywood cockpit locker lids which are poorly designed and incapable of being adequately secured againt water ingress. At the same time I would like to reduce the volume of the vast footwell so far less water will be held in the event of a wave jumping in.
    I have looked long and hard at the current arrangement to see if some improvement to these may be sufficient. I have concluded that the best way to procede may be to line the cockpit with plywood so that new locker lids can be made more easly and simply than attempting a retro fit. I have found pictures of a double coaming type as used on wharram catamarans that look simple enough for me to build and will be easily secured and watertight. The ply lining would also make it easier for my limited skills to install storm boards or a footwell box for liferaft storage or similar.

    So the point of this ramble. There seems little clear info or consensus on the best way to bond the two different materials. I understand the issue is about rate of expansion and contraction. Does anyone have knowledge or experience of doing this type of thing or have any recomendations as to how to achieve a high strength bond and seal between the two long term? Are there any better desgns of locker lid that I should consider?

    I have some other repairs to make at the interface of the two materials which will require the same type of bonding and sealing so keen to find a permanent high quality way of effecting these.
    Your thoughts will be most appreciated.

    Nick



    Last modified: 24 Mar 2018 19:33 | Deleted user
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