Barrel shape to broadseam

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
  • 22 Dec 2017 15:23
    Reply # 5646164 on 5646081
    Jami Jokinen wrote:Yes, 

    I get this - it is the same method that Arne suggests and I also used with my first sail. This is easy, because the max curve point is known.

    But where is the max curve of the broadseamed edge?

    (And did we now enter the stupid question category?)


    Sorry, I don't understand what you're asking.
  • 22 Dec 2017 14:31
    Reply # 5646106 on 5643636
    This drawing by Erik helps a lot in understanding the concept.

    Arne, I'm more worried about possible hard corners (ugly and prone to damage) at the seams, more than the speculative performance issues.

  • 22 Dec 2017 14:25
    Reply # 5646102 on 5643636
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Jami

    I keep saying that making a junk sail is far from rocket science. No one has yet made an accurate algorithm which describes the resulting camber as a function of the round we cut along the edges of each panel.  If there were such an algorithm, then one could decide for some favourite foil shape (resulting camber) and the resulting amount and shape of the Round-curve along the panel-edges would be given. 
    I know Slieve is keen to keep the curve of the camber  all the way to the luff. I, on the other hand don't bother so much, as the mast will ruin that curve on one tack anyway. 

    It would take a long and exhausting match-race series to optimise this camber. My half-informed guess is that the amount of camber (6, 8, 10%) will be the most dominant factor.

    Arne

  • 22 Dec 2017 13:40
    Reply # 5646081 on 5643636
    Yes, 

    I get this - it is the same method that Arne suggests and I also used with my first sail. This is easy, because the max curve point is known.

    But where is the max curve of the broadseamed edge?

    (And did we now enter the stupid question category?)


    Last modified: 22 Dec 2017 13:50 | Anonymous member
  • 22 Dec 2017 13:35
    Reply # 5646074 on 5643636

    Without a CAD program or large drawing board, you'll need to go back to the traditional sailmaking methods. Having established where the corners were, and then how much depth of curvature he wanted, and where the maximum depth would fall, the sailmaker would use a long flexible batten to draw a line through the points. Alternatively, he "threw" his roll of webbing through those points, arranged it in a fair curve by eye and pinned it down.

    A good simplified way of drawing the shape for the upper and lower edges of a JR panel is to plot a point at the luff corner; another that is at the maximum depth of curvature and 35% of the chord back from the luff; and another point that is on the straight line between the corners and 70% of the chord back from the luff; and then, firstly draw a circular arc through those three points and secondly a straight tangent to this arc that passes through the corner at the leech.

    Easier to draw than to describe – I hope you can make sense of this.

  • 22 Dec 2017 12:48
    Reply # 5646031 on 5643636
    Thank you David and Slieve,

    I think I get the basic context now. However, this still leaves the question about drawing the curved, broadseamed edges. How does one find out a nice shape by hand and shoud it be an even curve or...?

  • 22 Dec 2017 09:14
    Reply # 5645909 on 5643636

    Hi Jami,

    No, it's not a silly question. And I hope this is not a silly answer.

    Faced with the same sort of problem some years back, and realising that it was a question that would have to be answered many times I tried to write a spreadsheet to do the necessary work for me, and although not necessarily perfect the result has given satisfactory answers. I still use it for all sails. It gives answers which are very similar to Arne's method for the amount of round required.

    If you look in my files on the website section - Junk Information, - Public Domain files by-, you will find -

    C and SJ Appendix 3 12-05-12a.pdf

    Universal Round and Broadseam Calculator.xls

    The results require the broadseam to be split over at least two seams, or semi-seams, and placed well forward in the panel.

    There is more information on page 12 and page 19 of C and SJ P1-22 12-03-17c.pdf 

    Have a look, and come back if you have any problems with it.

    Meanwhile, may I Wish you all a Merry Christmas and and Happy New Year,

    Cheers, Slieve.


    Last modified: 22 Dec 2017 09:28 | Anonymous member
  • 20 Dec 2017 13:41
    Reply # 5643687 on 5643636
    1. Draw the barrel shape.
    2. Draw where the seams are going to be, according to the width of the cloth. I start from the leech when laying the cloths.
    3. If the cloth is wide, and there is no seam about 15 - 20% back from the luff, you might want to add a tuck here.
    4. Draw straight lines from corner, to seam end, [to tuck end] to seam end, to seam end, to corner (instead of a continuous curve) - the two cloths at the leech should have a continuous straight edge with no broadseam between them.
    5. Draw a straight line from corner to corner of the panel.
    6. Measure from the end of each seam or tuck to line 5. and then make a mark on the seam that is the same distance inside line 5. as the end of the seam is outside it (this will give you a "shelf" at 60 degrees)
    7. When sewing the cloths together, stick with basting-tape between those inner marks, then bring the ends of the seam together so that when you sight along the edge of the panel, it is a straight line. Don't be afraid to unstick and correct the alignment if it is wrong first time.
    8. There will be slight step between the two cloths if the seam is crossing the edge at an angle, which does not matter so long as the edges are parallel. This step can be trimmed off, or left if it is not unsightly.
    Last modified: 20 Dec 2017 13:42 | Anonymous member
  • 20 Dec 2017 12:39
    Reply # 5643638 on 5643636
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Jami, I think that is exactly how to do it. I will come back after Christmas on thoughts about how much to shorten the edge. Slieve McGalliard has already produced some thoughts about it.


    Arne

  • 20 Dec 2017 12:30
    Message # 5643636
    This might (again) be a stupid question, but I'm a journalist and used to asking them :)

    If one has no skill for CAD-software or similad 3D-planning in other ways, is it possible to convert a barrel (Arne) type sail panel shape to broadseamed roughly by eye?

    If you take a barrel shape panel (e.g. a 8% camber drawn with Arne's instructions), draw some vertical seams to it and then start taking in the seams so that the top and bottom edges begin to come out somewhat straight, this should do the trick for the ends of the broadseams, right?

    Is there an easy method for shaping the seams for the rest of the way?

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software