Drawings of junk rig conversion for Freedom 33

  • 26 Feb 2011 18:26
    Reply # 533613 on 531461
    Flutterby,

    One more thorn in the flesh, from mehitabel's compromise...

    Changing from cat schooner to junk schooner, I cut 11' off the head of our mainmast and 9' off the fore. I made the conservative choice to settle for a modest but real increase in sail area, in favour of stability and stiffness. The masts feel much better to me now. And... sometimes I have wished for more sail.

    Kurt

  • 26 Feb 2011 18:15
    Reply # 533608 on 533585
    Deleted user
    Jeff McFadden wrote:
    I'm in almost the same position, although not quite.  My current project is such a tiny boat that I have a maximum reasonable mast, and my objective is to put as much sail on that mast as I can.
    I guess what I'm trying to say here is that if your mast height and position are decided (by reasonable-ness and layout, or having already been built), and the CE of the sail you want is also decided (based on the underbody or an existing sailplan that balances properly)....THEN you don't have much choice on how much sail balance to use.  For a sail of given balance and likely aspect ratio, there would be an optimal yard angle for getting the most sail area.

    If your mast placement isn't locked down, you have more freedom to choose the amount of sail balance, and yard angles.
  • 26 Feb 2011 17:55
    Reply # 533585 on 533302
    Deleted user
    Barry Stellrecht wrote:
    Jeff McFadden wrote: I am, as usual, competely befuddled here. Does a steep yard angle automatically provide more sail area on a given rig? True, it enables the peak to be carried higher, but what you gain in the peak you give up in the luff and to a lesser extent in the leach. Yes? Or no?
    Err...I think it is a bit more complicated than that.

    PJR Fig 6.28 shows how they construct the mast to fit on a sail.  It has to be a bit taller than the sling point (usually mid-yard).  If you know what sail you want and are about to build a mast, this tells you what you need to know.

    I've already got a mast...
    I'm in almost the same position, although not quite.  My current project is such a tiny boat that I have a maximum reasonable mast, and my objective is to put as much sail on that mast as I can.
     and I'm trying to calculate how the sails I want are going to fit on the masts.  I went nuts with an excel spreadsheet to model things and made a LOT of variations along the way and saw what happened.  In this case, for the same mast, I found that generally lowering the yard angle made for more sail area, up to a point, then further decreases didn't result in significantly more area.  If I were to go lower, it would probably start to decrease again.  This maximum area point is at a lower angle for sails with more balance.  Below is a chart showing my results for a bunch of earlier sail plans.

    Yard Angle Main (17% Balance) area
    Mizzen (5% Balance) area
    45 MAX (not tried)
    50 -0.1% MAX
    55 -0.5% -0.5%
    60 -1.6% -1.5%
    65 -4.3% -3.3%
    70 -7.8%
    -6.4%

    Both sails started losing measurable sail area at a yard angle above 50 degrees, but it still wasn't significant until 55 or 60 degrees.  It was a bit worse on the sail with more balance. 
    That is very useful information to me.  My old flat sail was below 45%, due to an error in layout, but I think I'll just go with 45% on this one.
    I've seen claims from reasonable knowledgeable people that aerodynamic efficiency is better for both low angle yards or high angle yards.  I'm mostly avoiding the question and going for an angle that looks like it will hang properly and allow enough sail area.
    Since the 45% angle will obviously be more aerodynamically efficient, or either it won't. :-)


    Jeff McFadden wrote:It seems to me that a high peaked sail also puts more sideways (bending) force on the top of the mast.???
    I don't know.  Intuitively I would think that having more sail area up high puts more bending load on the top of the mast, rather than the yard angle.

    Changing the yard angle would probably change the sail area or move it around, so it could have some effect.


    thanks for your help.
    Jeff
  • 26 Feb 2011 13:12
    Reply # 533511 on 531461
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Stavanger, Sat        

     

                     .. Peaking the yard...

    I read in one of the letters above that “Arne goes with 70° in his sails”. That is only half-true.

    The yard angle has not the highest priority. I start with trying to find a place for the mast and then adjust the balance in the sail (and AR and thus CE) to get easy steering. I try to keep the balance between 10 and 20 % to minimise the distorted area of my cambered panels. In Johanna’s case I was forced to put the mast far forward due to the long trunk cabin. This made me want to reduce the balance to a minimum to force the sail area aft. I was very close to giving up and fitting a little mizzen to move the CE further aft. After fitting the rig, I found that the 3-panel top section is very effective and that it performs extremely well in gale-force winds, but that is just a bonus that I did not plan for.

    If I were to make a sail with a lot of balance, for instance a split junk, a low peaking yard would indeed make sense. It’s all about bringing the sling-point on the yard close to the mast...

     

    Sooo... I’m not planning to start a 70° Yard Religion!

     

    Arne

  • 26 Feb 2011 02:38
    Reply # 533400 on 531461
    Hi Barry & Margaret,

    Further comments:

    Sail Area - Having large area available seems to me to cause no problems. Reefed area isn't in the way. It just requires large prudence. I hope you have in mind that many of us reef something in 20+ knots. You may have reefed something earlier and then want to reef something more. So the conditions you're sheeting and designing for may be best assumed to be with some reefs in.

    P Dimension - If you already have room for DMin/P=1.75 under your main, my suggestion for gradually increasing P upwards loses some usefulness... but I would certainly build sails that way again. Would it help your mizzen? That's the sail where finer 'balancing' reefs suggest themselves even more.

    Yard Angles - Aesthetically, they only match from a distance and only if the luffs are parallel. Your sails would be pleasing to see from your own deck or mine, I reckon. Check pictures of Aphrodite for examples of low angled yards with panel camber. (I don't know their angle... - Paul?)

    Head panel area and 'control in winds over 30 knots' - When I look at my sails reefed to only the head panel, I don't wish for more area or more battens up there. I decided PJR Fig 2.24 would give a good top to a sail, and it's worked well for us.

    Panels same size - Why? But having said that, our panels are close and gradually go from the 90 sq.ft head to the 60 sq.ft bottom panel on the main.

    Downhauls - They're 1:1 lines, so little hassle. I'm adding them to our rig.

    Sheet forces - Our 450 sq.ft main has almost no balance at the tack, and we sheet it without a winch. We do have a place to sweat the line in the cockpit. I'm optimistic that sheet forces on your mizzen will be light enough for 5:1.

    Glad you wanted your assumptions challenged. None of this is meant to be harsh on your design or your self. Go with your own 'gut' and I'm sure all this hard work will bear fruit!

    Cheers,
    Kurt

    Last modified: 26 Feb 2011 02:38 | Anonymous member
  • 25 Feb 2011 23:17
    Reply # 533302 on 532971
    Deleted user
    Jeff McFadden wrote: I am, as usual, competely befuddled here. Does a steep yard angle automatically provide more sail area on a given rig? True, it enables the peak to be carried higher, but what you gain in the peak you give up in the luff and to a lesser extent in the leach. Yes? Or no?
    Err...I think it is a bit more complicated than that.

    PJR Fig 6.28 shows how they construct the mast to fit on a sail.  It has to be a bit taller than the sling point (usually mid-yard).  If you know what sail you want and are about to build a mast, this tells you what you need to know.

    I've already got a mast, and I'm trying to calculate how the sails I want are going to fit on the masts.  I went nuts with an excel spreadsheet to model things and made a LOT of variations along the way and saw what happened.  In this case, for the same mast, I found that generally lowering the yard angle made for more sail area, up to a point, then further decreases didn't result in significantly more area.  If I were to go lower, it would probably start to decrease again.  This maximum area point is at a lower angle for sails with more balance.  Below is a chart showing my results for a bunch of earlier sail plans.

    Yard Angle Main (17% Balance) area
    Mizzen (5% Balance) area
    45 MAX (not tried)
    50 -0.1% MAX
    55 -0.5% -0.5%
    60 -1.6% -1.5%
    65 -4.3% -3.3%
    70 -7.8%
    -6.4%

    Both sails started losing measurable sail area at a yard angle above 50 degrees, but it still wasn't significant until 55 or 60 degrees.  It was a bit worse on the sail with more balance. 

    In my variations the sling point (when drawn according to Fig 6.28) moves when I change the yard angle, because I am keeping the foot of the sail and the mast fixed.  I do find that the sling point gets pretty far from the middle as the yard angles get extremely high or low. PJR points out the problems with going in either direction, so I'm figuring I'll stay in the range of at least 40~60%, if not right at 50%.  It looks to me that lower yard angles go well with more sail balance, and higher yard angles go well with less sail balance, from the point of view of fitting it on a mast of a given height.

    I've seen claims from reasonable knowledgeable people that aerodynamic efficiency is better for both low angle yards or high angle yards.  I'm mostly avoiding the question and going for an angle that looks like it will hang properly and allow enough sail area.

    Jeff McFadden wrote:It seems to me that a high peaked sail also puts more sideways (bending) force on the top of the mast.???
    I don't know.  Intuitively I would think that having more sail area up high puts more bending load on the top of the mast, rather than the yard angle.

    Changing the yard angle would probably change the sail area or move it around, so it could have some effect.

  • 25 Feb 2011 16:14
    Reply # 532971 on 532756
    Deleted user
    Barry Stellrecht wrote: David & Kurt, thank you for your comments.  I appreciate the help and the challenges to my assumptions.  My goal here to build a simple, reliable, and good performing rig capable of crossing oceans.  I'm not trying to develop something new--just trying to get the best ideas previously tested to fit well on my boat.

    Sail Shape & Area

    I chose differing yard angles because of differing amounts of balance--It appears to me that for a sail with a lot of balance (my main) a lower yard angle will hang better, and for a sail with very little balance (my mizzen) a higher yard angle will hang better.  I've also gone toward yard angles that allow me to put up more area on my masts.  I haven't actually tried raising and peaking sails with differing balance and yard angles, so I could be completely wrong with this concern.

    I haven't thought about the aerodynamics of yard angles, and I claim no expertise in that field anyhow.

    Regarding the yard angles, what is "high" and "low?"  The Van Loan shape has a 55 degree yard angle.  Looking at a drawing of Poppy's sail, I see something lower, maybe 42 degrees (Can't find my protractor tonight)  Hasler-McLeod is usually 60 but they did use 70 sometimes.  Arne goes with 70 on his sails.

    The sail area as designed is the most I could fit with the masts I've got.  I figured that easy junk reefing is my reason to put it up there.  I have enough sailing experience to appreciate too much sail for conditions being up, but I don't understand where I'll find trouble with having too much sail available.

    I am somewhat concerned about raising the sail's CE too much over her original rig's CE.  But I figure that a reef is a quick fix for that too.

    One other note--I worked pretty hard to get all the panels to have the same amount of area, by modifying the nominally triangular head panels.  This was based on Arne's observation that one of his designs had head panels too big, with some problems (twist, I believe).  With my high AR sails, I was trying to make my head panels bigger rather than smaller as Arne did on his later designs.

    Sheeting & Dmin, etc.

    I am planning to leave the top batten unsheeted.

    I don't want double sheets--For me it seems like too much rope and too much bother.  (Same feeling about downhauls....but I've got less idea how they would bother me, as I've not really thought about how many I would need and how I would work them.)

    I did select simple sheeting based mostly on the Dmin/P numbers.  Two batten spans of 1.25P or 1.38P would fit onto my deck.  Reading PJR on sheeting systems, any three batten spans needed significantly more length.  I didn't really want all the string of 6 (or 7) part sheets.

    It looks like the main would just support a 1.75*P Dmin, which gives me options.  It should be easier to sheet--it has lots of balance, and I could easily put that sheet on a winch.  I think I will revisit its sheeting options.

    The mizzen is a very high AR sail, but my masts pretty much force that on me, at least if I put them to good use.  The clew is too low to support a 1.75*P Dmin.  There is a track for the sheeting point just about on top of the transom.  This sail is smaller, but has less balance. It also doesn't have a reasonable winch to help me sheet it in.

    If I were to raise the clew (probably by reducing height and hoisting it higher), I would be raising its CE even more compared to the original mizzen's CE, and that doesn't make me feel good.  Perhaps I should let this last objection go?

    Tonight I am too sleepy to try and figure out how differing panel heights would affect sheeting arrangements. I'll get back to this later, along with anything else I was too tired to think about.

    Please keep the comments coming!

    I am, as usual, competely befuddled here. Does a steep yard angle automatically provide more sail area on a given rig? True, it enables the peak to be carried higher, but what you gain in the peak you give up in the luff and to a lesser extent in the leach. Yes? Or no?
    It seems to me that a high peaked sail also puts more sideways (bending) force on the top of the mast.???
    Undestand that I'm no kind of engineer here. This is eyeball math and seat-of-the-pants calculations.
    Jeff
  • 25 Feb 2011 06:27
    Reply # 532756 on 531461
    Deleted user
    David & Kurt, thank you for your comments.  I appreciate the help and the challenges to my assumptions.  My goal here to build a simple, reliable, and good performing rig capable of crossing oceans.  I'm not trying to develop something new--just trying to get the best ideas previously tested to fit well on my boat.

    Sail Shape & Area

    I chose differing yard angles because of differing amounts of balance--It appears to me that for a sail with a lot of balance (my main) a lower yard angle will hang better, and for a sail with very little balance (my mizzen) a higher yard angle will hang better.  I've also gone toward yard angles that allow me to put up more area on my masts.  I haven't actually tried raising and peaking sails with differing balance and yard angles, so I could be completely wrong with this concern.

    I haven't thought about the aerodynamics of yard angles, and I claim no expertise in that field anyhow.

    Regarding the yard angles, what is "high" and "low?"  The Van Loan shape has a 55 degree yard angle.  Looking at a drawing of Poppy's sail, I see something lower, maybe 42 degrees (Can't find my protractor tonight)  Hasler-McLeod is usually 60 but they did use 70 sometimes.  Arne goes with 70 on his sails.

    The sail area as designed is the most I could fit with the masts I've got.  I figured that easy junk reefing is my reason to put it up there.  I have enough sailing experience to appreciate too much sail for conditions being up, but I don't understand where I'll find trouble with having too much sail available.

    I am somewhat concerned about raising the sail's CE too much over her original rig's CE.  But I figure that a reef is a quick fix for that too.

    One other note--I worked pretty hard to get all the panels to have the same amount of area, by modifying the nominally triangular head panels.  This was based on Arne's observation that one of his designs had head panels too big, with some problems (twist, I believe).  With my high AR sails, I was trying to make my head panels bigger rather than smaller as Arne did on his later designs.

    Sheeting & Dmin, etc.

    I am planning to leave the top batten unsheeted.

    I don't want double sheets--For me it seems like too much rope and too much bother.  (Same feeling about downhauls....but I've got less idea how they would bother me, as I've not really thought about how many I would need and how I would work them.)

    I did select simple sheeting based mostly on the Dmin/P numbers.  Two batten spans of 1.25P or 1.38P would fit onto my deck.  Reading PJR on sheeting systems, any three batten spans needed significantly more length.  I didn't really want all the string of 6 (or 7) part sheets.

    It looks like the main would just support a 1.75*P Dmin, which gives me options.  It should be easier to sheet--it has lots of balance, and I could easily put that sheet on a winch.  I think I will revisit its sheeting options.

    The mizzen is a very high AR sail, but my masts pretty much force that on me, at least if I put them to good use.  The clew is too low to support a 1.75*P Dmin.  There is a track for the sheeting point just about on top of the transom.  This sail is smaller, but has less balance. It also doesn't have a reasonable winch to help me sheet it in.

    If I were to raise the clew (probably by reducing height and hoisting it higher), I would be raising its CE even more compared to the original mizzen's CE, and that doesn't make me feel good.  Perhaps I should let this last objection go?

    Tonight I am too sleepy to try and figure out how differing panel heights would affect sheeting arrangements. I'll get back to this later, along with anything else I was too tired to think about.

    Please keep the comments coming!
  • 24 Feb 2011 23:09
    Reply # 532581 on 531461
    Hello Barry & Margaret,

    First, compliments on your rigorous design and excellent presentation.

    One junkie’s comments:
    (This gets tedious, but you seem to be detail people...)

    Sail Panels

    I would choose the 7-panel sail to start with. Your panel heights are reasonable. Ours are well over 4' in the P dimension. They’re either big and untidy all in a stack, or small and untidy all in a stack. I can’t think of a reason to add a batten to make them smaller.

    My main suggestion next is, that you consider making the lowest panels smaller in P, and grading P larger as you go higher - something like lowest 3.5' then 3.8' - 4.1' - 4.4' - 4.8' or so. Here’s why:
    1) The first full-panel reef is then a smallish ‘balancing’ reef. More likely the thing you’d want more often, than a big bite out of the sail as a first measure. You’ve added a substantial area of sail to Flutterby. My guess is that you’ll spend a lot of time, over time, with one panel down.
    2) You don’t have a generous DMin distance to the deck. And you’ve specified ‘simple’ sheeting. If your reason for simple sheetlets is to keep to a small DMin, you might get a pleasant surprise if you adjust panel heights as I just described and recalculate the DMin using more interesting sheet spans. More below...

    Sheeting

    Your mizzen sail is high aspect and your main is a big sail. Simple sheetlets and multiple purchase miles of rope don’t give as much control of twist as some other ways. I don’t know if you intend to sheet the topmost batten of each, so I’ll assume not. It would be tricky anyways. So...
    1) A 6-part sheet seems like a mission to haul in, to me. 5-part purchase has been ample on our 445sq.ft main, which has little balance area forward of the mast. I wouldn’t begin to think about split sheets, although some people live with them.
    2) If you’re sheeting 6 points, maybe consider something like we use, checking for DMin space with the shorter-P-dimension lower panels I suggested above: Lowest 3 battens with an equal-power 3-point span like PJR Fig 4.28 (DMin/P=1.75); next 2 battens with an anti-twist 2-point span like Fig 4.24 (DMin/P=1.38); highest sheeted batten with the dead-end of the sheet, or a block. (We use first-pull-at-bottom without a problem, if that’s a consideration.) Or some other combination that fits, shortens the sheet, and helps with twist. I played with panel heights and span designs, rechecked stagger (all good) and ended up happy with it all. Plus it works really well.

    Departures

    I wanted to sheet our topmost batten, to keep the option of a single-panel stormsail without going out and tying reefing gaskets or pendants, and to have a handle on twist. So all our battens are sheeted. I made the leech straight enough to do this by using a transitional panel below the top triangular one. It has its batten fanned up somewhat at the leech, and the luff end lower than close to the yard.
    (Fan-style camber is another benefit, (our sails are called flat) but you have other plans for camber.) 
    Yeah... best image is PJR Fig 2.24 - my favourite sail of all, except that it has unequal batten lengths. 
    So our sails look like the top part of Fig 2.24 transplanted onto a parallelogram bottom part with smaller P dimensions the lower you go in the sail. I’m saying all this because you could sheet all the battens if you did something similar and only had the resulting 6 panels. Phew.

    Another Tack

    I've been recently very impressed with Aphrodite's rig by Paul Thompson. It has low-angled yards as in Van Loan's designs, and sewn-in camber. High-peaked yards may be good for us with flat sails, but unnecessary for you with real camber. Just a thought.


    For qualifications (who is this guy?) I’ve designed junk rigs for all of 2 cruising boats, and built the entire one for our own schooner ‘mehitabel’ which I’ve skippered for 10,000nm under the old Freedom-ish cat schooner disaster rig, and 4,000 under the vastly excellent junk rig, which got a pretty good workout. Doesn't make me an expert.

    There are a few shots of mehitabel in my profile photo album, but sorry not enough for a good critical analysis. 

    Thanks for sharing your design! This is very fun, for some of us.

    Cheers and best of luck,
    Kurt
    Last modified: 24 Feb 2011 23:09 | Anonymous member
  • 24 Feb 2011 22:33
    Reply # 532557 on 531461
    Hi,
    Some comments on your rig proposal:
    • I would find it aesthetically very un-pleasing to have to look at yards that are at different angles. 
    • Slieve believes that a low angled yard has the best aerodynamic performance. I favour a high angled yard to get the most benefit from a "fanned" top section. I can't see any benefit in having a yard angled midway between those extremes.
    • I still like my ketch rig, with a big, "driving" mainsail and a small "trimming" mizzen. If I could do it again, I'd go further, with absolute minimum mizzen balance (which makes it easier to see and trim the main), and absolute maximum main balance (better for running in strong winds).
    • I think you will need double sheets, P & S, on the mizzen, to be able to sheet it close enough. Even so, such a tall sail will be extremely difficult to sheet effectively, and the upper parts of the sheet will be pulling down, not in. Debateable on the main - the balance should help, but I would want double sheets here, too.
    • My mizzen has a P/B of 1200/3600. My main has a P/B of 1200/5000. In both cases, downhauls are necessary, to get the luff of the lowest panel to set - but of course i have wingsails. 
    • SA/D of 23 is huge. One of my design textbooks says 15 to 16 for offshore cruisers, 16 to 17 for coastal cruisers, 17 to 19 for racing yachts, over 20 usually only seen on ultra-light racers, class racers and dayboats. I know you can reef a junk rig easily, but even so, a reefed junk rig of area 'x' is not as good and as convenient to use as an un-reefed junk rig also of area 'x'. I also know that Arne uses a very high SA/D, but in a very particular set of conditions. The Freedom 33 is of shoal draft, like tystie, and I very much doubt whether she can carry that much sail. I suggest you cut 100 sq ft off, you won't miss it.
    • If you have fewer battens, they should be stronger - ie, no weight saving.
    • 7 - part sheeting is irksome to use, with miles of line to be dealt with.
    • Downhauls are easy to use, and effective.
    • Cambered panels are more effective if wider.
    •  I would go for 5 wide parallelogram panels, 6 - part sheeting and downhauls.
    • I would split the top, un-sheeted part into three, with an extra batten, for better control in 30 knots+. That is, 8 panels in all.
    David.
    Last modified: 24 Feb 2011 22:33 | Anonymous member
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