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Galion 22 conversion

  • 15 Apr 2018 01:57
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    Reply # 6099529 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    I hope you are managing to keep the allergy at bay.  Try and work cleanly: minimise getting epoxy on your skin, and, especially on your tools, which you may well pick up later with unprotected hands, while the glue is still uncured.  Attach a vacuum cleaner to your sander, whenever possible, and at least use a bag on it if you can.  Wash your hands every time you've been handling epoxy.  Wash off the amine bloom if you can feel it.  Change out of your work clothes when you've finished for the day.  When all else fails, use a tiny amount of steroid cream if you find a rash developing.  Keep your work space clean so that you are not constantly stirring up epoxy dust.

    There's no such thing as fully-cured epoxy.  However carefully you measure it and however carefully you mix it, there will always be molecules of hardener that didn't bond with their resin partners.  As soon as you cut, plane or sand, some of these will get into the atmosphere.

    At the end of the day, I think some people are more susceptible than others.  Thus far I am one of the lucky ones.

    Your boat is coming along well: I'm sure you'll be sailing this summer and I look forward to seeing the photos.
  • 14 Apr 2018 05:20
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    Reply # 6098649 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Mast step coming along; the hull shape is steep and starts to narrow very fast at the point where the mast will be. To me the best solution seemed to be using vertical slices of 12mm plywood, which will be epoxied together as well as to the hull.

    In the end 26 slices felt enough.

    Will there be more ply or steel on top of these to secure the mast, is still under debate in my head.


    1 file
    Last modified: 14 Apr 2018 05:21 | Anonymous member
  • 10 Apr 2018 17:02
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    Reply # 6081666 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Phew,

    It seems that my body might have developed a sudden sensitivity/allergic reaction to epoxy.

    Nevertheless, I have to finish the mast step (which I have already started with epoxy) and hull bottom with it. But what about strengthening the deck and building partners - is the project doomed if I have to change to polyester resin?

    Last modified: 10 Apr 2018 17:03 | Anonymous member
  • 10 Apr 2018 15:02
    Quote
    Reply # 6081363 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    I have started to buld the qute challenging mast step, more info a bit later.

    I also added up the weight of the 130/5 + 100/4 mast option (still haven't made up my mind) and 35/2 battens. Without the yard the weight sums up to 60-65 kg. Seems a lot, doesn't it?

    Last modified: 10 Apr 2018 15:03 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Mar 2018 15:17
    Quote
    Reply # 5991016 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Jami,

    all I can say is that the epoxy-only joints works fine on two of my boats. Now, the top sections are of wood in my case, but the epoxy-to-lower mast joint is still epoxy-aluminium. My thinking is that the glue surface I suggested is so big that it would surprise me hugely if they lose grip. In addition there is the fairing above the joint, which gives additional safety against suddenly ending up with a short mast.

    Arne
  • 21 Mar 2018 08:16
    Quote
    Reply # 5990447 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Back to the mast issue: I had a good offer on 130/5 al-tube, which is 6060-T66. I don't quite understand these standards - is this any good?

    This tube would be used with my old 100/4 (discussion below), but I don't seem to feel safe with the idea of only gluing them together with epoxy. Is there really no significant risk of losing the topmast, if e.g. heavily heeled with too much sail, which would change the wind force direction more to the top of the mast? Or with heavy banging on the waves?

    Does adding a bolt give more risks than benefits?

    (Sidenote: I decided to have unalome as my sail insignia. Of course this should not be high on the priority list, but doing this was important for me personally.)

    1 file
    Last modified: 21 Mar 2018 11:02 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Mar 2018 07:12
    Quote
    Reply # 5990426 on 5990425
    Anonymous member
    Annie Hill wrote:Oh, well done, Jami.  If this sail is anything like the first one you made, it should be a cracker.  I look forward to seeing it set on the boat in the not too distant future.

    Thanks,
    but don't wait too much - this is only the second sail I have made in my life, and there were again many totally new things to be learned. But it's nice to know that I am not the only one looking forward to seeing this sail at sea!
  • 21 Mar 2018 07:10
    Quote
    Reply # 5990425 on 5070195
    Anonymous member
    Oh, well done, Jami.  If this sail is anything like the first one you made, it should be a cracker.  I look forward to seeing it set on the boat in the not too distant future.
  • 21 Mar 2018 06:23
    Quote
    Reply # 5990386 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Hooray to me! Sewing done!

    I decided to stay with separate and hinged panels all the way. I just couldn't justify losing (to my eye) the biggest advantage, modularity. 

    No photos or videos, because I haven't got a place to put the thing together - not even a flagpole on my yard. 

    All I need now is "only" the running rigging, the mast, partners and mast step along with the bottom job and a few other things planned for this year...
  • 15 Mar 2018 08:29
    Quote
    Reply # 5979813 on 5070195
    Anonymous member
    The sewing is about to move to the top three panels, and I have to decide how to handle them.

    As you might remember, panels 4-7 were done with a hinge system, not sewing the panels together. Inspired by Roger Taylor but unlike his sail, I did mine with hinges of the same length and built the camber with the usual methods (rounding, broadseam, tucks).

    Taylor chose to sew the top panels together and use batten pockets, and as I understand, one of the main reasons was to secure the storm canvas area.

    I'm not sure if this is needed in my case. I could build the hinges at the top panels stronger than the lower ones. 

    However, I wonder if there is another good reason to sew the top panels together: the semi-open slot around the battens starts to form new luffs and leeches, when the panels start to be more vertical - especially with a sail that follows Arne's planform.

    I know this has not been measured and not much theorized either, but how do you see it: would this be a good reason to sew the top three of two panels together or not?

    Last modified: 15 Mar 2018 08:29 | Anonymous member
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