Stuart Keevil wrote:

Here's some details from the Tammy Norie Blog

https://tammynorie.wordpress.com/2014/06/05/mast-hinge-design/

https://tammynorie.wordpress.com/2014/06/11/making-the-mast-hinge-blood-sweat-and-duralac/

Yes, indeed, this style of hinge suits boats of Corribbee/Coromandel size and smaller. But it does depend on having some skill in metal working. Some people will like this, others will prefer a wooden tabernacle, still others will just lift the mast into a hole in the deck with the help of a couple of mates.

Thank you David and Arne for your responses. I definitely do not want a rig that's a pig to sail! So what I want is a low aspect rig (to keep the mast short) with straight leech - very much open to suggestions. Perhaps first I need to resolve the mast issue though. I need to know exactly how long it will be before anyone can come up with a sail plan. 

I take your point about the join, David, but was quite impressed with this type when I watched this video  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z7AgSFs1OY&sns=em on Youtube. I see the owner, Richard, of Tammy Norie is a JRA member too. Looks ideal method for a trailer sailor but can't see how the hinge works. I have seen another variation on the same idea. On a small boat, the idea of keeping the sail permanently on the short stubby bit makes a lot of sense. On my boat I would not bother with the fancy cover on the sail, just lower the mast into a crutch at the stern and throw a tarp over when I put the boat away.

David

David Hall wrote:

Thank you again David and Chris.

That looks like it could work very well and actually very cheap too - though perhaps needs to be anodised. But perhaps not if it says corrosion proof. If I got a 5m and a 2.5m tube I could bury the short one in the hull and then maybe join the two at about boom height. 

Do you think the Reddish rig will work with the sheeting now that it is reduced, David? I looked at the articles, Chris, but newsletter 68 not there for some reason.

David

David, note that you can't join two tubes of the same size end to end without losing strength. You would need a larger tube at the bottom, and that would have to be 4in x 10swg, with casting polyurethane poured in to fill the gap. This can be done, but requires some expertise. It would be easier to make a wooden topmast. 

I wouldn't want to say that the Reddish rig "works" or "doesn't work". I'd only want to say that on a scale of 1 to 10, I give it 3 for workability. Vincent Reddish derived this rig from the large South China junks, and they had big crews to deal with the sheets as they tacked. There will always be some tendency for the sheet to hang up on the batten ends, even if it's reduced by setting the deck blocks well aft. Convex leeches are bound to be troublesome. This is why, when I was first looking into the design of fanned planform sails, I couldn't think of them as acceptable for use on a small yacht - until I'd found a way to make the leech straight by making the luff convex.

Thank you again David and Chris.

That looks like it could work very well and actually very cheap too - though perhaps needs to be anodised. But perhaps not if it says corrosion proof. If I got a 5m and a 2.5m tube I could bury the short one in the hull and then maybe join the two at about boom height. 

Do you think the Reddish rig will work with the sheeting now that it is reduced, David? I looked at the articles, Chris, but newsletter 68 not there for some reason.

David

David Hall wrote:

Many thanks to David and others who have commented so far on rigs and mast thickness etc.

I have now re-drawn the Reddish sail plan making the sail about 150 sq ft and also done a drawing of the fantail with about the same area of sail. Album on my page. To keep the mast short, have it in a convenient place for fitting (with or without a tabernacle), keep the centre of effort in the right place and to keep the number of sail panels reasonably low for such a small boat it looks like the Reddish sail would be best. So..

• Would there still be a problem with the sheeting? The current position of the mainsheet block in right above the transom.
• Would it be possible to reduce the number of panels to 5 while keeping the same sail area?
• Where could I look for a 90mm aluminium mast and also look at options for carbon fibre or wood (to go in a tapernacle)?
• Where can I look to learn more about the Reddish plan - any advantages and disadvantages?

Hope you are still following and able to help.

David

David,

I think you'll have troubles with the sheets fouling the convex leech, whatever the size.

have you checked out the stagger of the Reddish sail, and confirmed that the upper batten and yard will stay on the mast when furled? This is why i recommend that the fantail sail is set on a forward raked mast.

I would either take the Reddish sail as designed, or not at all. It's difficult to envisage all the knock-on effects, if you're not used to designing junk rigs.

I think you're going to have to get a 3 1/2in x 10swg aluminium tube spec 6082T6 from a stockholder. You'll be able to get nearly all the length you're looking for, and will only need a short wooden topmast..