Darren Bos wrote:

...with two cycle engines where the volatile stuff evaporates from the carb over the winter and leaves a goo or varnish that prevents things from working properly in the spring.  

One trick we did was flood the engine to shut it down at the end of the day, by pulling the choke on full. The idea was to get a rich blast of fuel into cylinders, with the idea that a little extra oil would be left to help guard against corrosion (on piston ported engines, an open port allows condensation to occur inside the cooling cylinders). I don't imagine it would hurt a 2 stroke outboard to do likewise.

Most probably know that a dash of vinegar at engine flush time helps keep the salts from depositing and leaves your engine reminiscing of fresh summer garden salads.

David Thatcher wrote:

I think it is pretty hard to beat the high thrust version of the Yamaha 9.9hp 4 stroke outboard. This is as fitted to Footprints, mounted in a well with remotes and electric starting.

David,

the Yamaha you describe, sounds like a similar version of the one I fitted to the 3-ton Johanna, back in 1999. That was the model with 25” (XL) leg and manual start. The gear lever sat next to the twist grip throttle. The gear ratio was 3:1 and the propeller was 11¾  x 9¼“ (Diam x pitch), if I remember correctly. It pushed the boat up to 6.3kts, which was the theoretical hull speed. At 5.8kts I recorded a fuel consumption of 0.50 l/NMi

To start that 324ccm engine by one hand called for a special technique: I first pulled it over the compression top a few times, slowly, to prime it. Somehow, I could feel when it was ready, and then it was just to give it a good yank and it would start.  My “winter preservation procedure” was just to start and run it for a few minutes, 2-3 times during winter. If the temp was below zero, it could feel a little stiff and reluctant. Then I fitted a nice long extension line to the starter cord and pulled the engine over the top as many as 10 -15 times.  After this treatment it would usually start at first (2-handed) yank.

The steering friction could be adjusted very precisely with a lever at the front. Since I used the steering actively when backing out of the berth, this was very useful. The tiller lock for my new Tohatsu for Ingeborg is not so good  -  awkward to reach and difficult to set. I think I will fit a tiller lock to hold it, instead.

Arne

PS: That Yamaha is still doing good service on Johanna, now with another owner. Sitting on the stern, at the centreline, it works just as well with the boat rolling or heeling.

I chose to go outboard largely for the simplicity, but sure, cost is a BIG factor.  My (superficial) research showed me that fitting an inboard would cost me twice the initial cost for the engine itself, and that's to say nothing of the time it would take.  The outboard I will put on the transom, connect to a fuel tank and call it installed.  Moreover, while diesel engines are inarguably reliable they require one or more holes in the hull and their ancillaries require maintenance and replacement during the life of the engine: starter motor, alternator, water pump, stuffing box, etc, etc.

I have no doubt that I've made the correct choice, but it's really, really good to hear other people speaking so positively about their own experiences with outboard auxiliary power.

My Nissan/Tohatsu is second-hand.  I shall report on my satisfaction or otherwise when and if I get this boat in the water!

Motors:

I built my boat in 1982, and have had several motors.  I used oars (first four years, 1.5 knt max in no wind for an hour; 0.5 knot for ten hours on Puget Sound, Washington State, playing the tidal currents); a 6hp Seagull (next five years, full-out it pushed boat at 6knts, smoked like crazy, drank gas/oil like a true sailor on shore leave) ; a 2.0hp Gamefisher 2 stroke (1 year, made about 2 knots with no wind); a Johnson Sailmaster 9.9hp (7 years, made 8knts full out, usually cruised at 6.5, used a medium amount of gas); a Mercury 15hp (12 years, maxed at about 7.5knt, even with wrong prop it was GREAT on gas, about 12miles per gallon, but very heavy).  I still often use the oars, but can only get about 1 knot for 10 minutes (getting older).  The 4 stroke is really too heavy for me to be quickly lifting anymore.  I am investigating electric outboards.

Mounting:

My boat is like a big canoe, 35' long, 8' wide with a draft (leeboards up) of 18" and 9000lbs displacement.  So, very easy to push. And, I really like traveling into shallow water where I may need to pull the motor up at a moment's notice. I have usually used the outboard in a motor well in the stern.  I have never been happy with any of my attempts to close the hole when the outboard is "up" and sailing or rowing (ideas most welcome). I once built an attachment to set the motor outside the hull near the stern,  making it easier to lift the motor when in shallow water ... but it had the problems that sheets tangled on the motor, in rough water the motor could get dunked from stern waves, and in certain windward wind/wave sailing conditions the bracket liked to scoop water over the windward side and into the cockpit.

Future - electric outboard (?):

After checking the numbers using Skene's Elements on motor power, I bought the very expensive Torqeedo 1004, with 1000 watts power.  I was impressed that it actually pushed my boat at what Skene's said it would - maxed at 1000 watts gave me 3.3 knots in no wind, no current, boards up, and no wave conditions.  With its self-contained battery its all-up weight is about 40 lbs ..  and runs long enough to easily get me out from and back to moorage (on the mud at low tide).  I am currently rebuilding the boat to prepare for Junk rig and am thinking that their 4.0 should push my boat at a little over 5 knots, according to Skenes.  I will always keep the oars, also useful for poling.  I expect to build a yuloh sometime soon to see how that works .

ps - this is my first post to the forum.  Over the past year I believe I have read everything on this site at least once.  I don't have the words to express how much I appreciate everything everyone has kindly shared.  Thank you all.  When I am ready to start my rebuild I will post and share whatever I can as my small way to give back to this wonderful group. - Ron

From 2-stroke to 4-stroke outboards

I elect to start this topic as an offspring from this Weaverbird  -  the refit topic, around 9. October, 2016. These days outboard engines have become so good  -  and the diesel engines so expensive, that many more sailors  -  and practical junkies in particular  -  will prefer the cheaper alternative.

Before buying my first 4-stroke engine in 1985(?), I had sailed for over ten years with two-stroke engines on the sterns; a 4hp Mercury, a Seagull and a 2-cylinder, 6hp Johnson.

The first 4-stroke engine surely proved to play in a higher league when it came to reliable starting, slow speed handling and reduced fuel consumption.  However, they needed a different technique when starting. With the 2-strokes I simply grabbed the handle and pulled fairly long and medium hard, and then the engine started, mostly. Not quite so with the 4-stroke. I soon learned the hard way that one must first pull the cord until compression is felt and then give it a fast, short yank. Failing to use this technique, I could well be ‘rewarded’ with a violent backfire, which ripped the handle out of my hand.  On all my previous  4-stroke engines; a 7.5hp Honda, a 9.9hp (324ccm) Yamaha and the little 50ccm 2.3hp Honda , I have used this starting method and got away with it.

However, the new 6hp single-pot Tohatsu for Ingeborg surprised me: When pulling the starter cord, it felt unnaturally light. It also appeared to be long between each compression. The dealer then showed me how to start it  -  with a fast, long “2-stroke pull”. Obviously the recoil start of this motor has been given a different gearing than earlier models.

My hunch is that some of those back-firings of earlier models have resulted in complaints from customers, so they have geared the recoil starter down.

On my Ingeborg there is an about one metre long aft deck which makes access to the engine a bit awkward, so to get the right swing, I soon added an extension starting cord, first with a crude handle, and later with a nice plywood job (left photo). This worked well, as long as I gave it this long, fast pull. This was no problem if I was alone in the cockpit.

Very recently I added a simple block device (right photo) to let me get a more effective and short pull while standing in the cockpit. A quick two-handed half-meter pull on my (blue) handle gives a super-quick one-meter pull on the starter cord. This makes life less dangerous for passengers sitting around.

Arne

PS: I hope this topic eventually will be filled up with all sorts of good advices about outboard engines.