A junk rig for Weaverbird

  • 13 Apr 2016 20:53
    Reply # 3952001 on 3941632
    David Tyler wrote:
    David Tyler wrote:

    The tapered mast tube, 9.2m x 165mm dia x 3mm wall, is on order with the Aluminium Lighting Company, and I'm awaiting a delivery date.

    I now have a delivery date of May 13th.
    David, can you give us an idea of the cost of this - I am trying to figure out if I can afford an alloy mast or need to make a birdsmouth one....
  • 12 Apr 2016 16:25
    Reply # 3949177 on 3858224
    Deleted user

    Thanks Jerry and David.  It looks like I may have missed the boat on the fabric.  The ebay listings seem to be gone.  

  • 11 Apr 2016 20:20
    Reply # 3941863 on 3858224
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Good, David!

    Now, finally we are getting double-figure temps in Stavanger (about 12deg C), so today  I took my wooden top section of Ingeborg's mast to the boatclub's workshop. Now the first coat of varnish is drying  -  progress!

    Arne

    ..and step two forward...
    Last modified: 11 Apr 2016 20:22 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 11 Apr 2016 18:00
    Reply # 3941632 on 3930179
    David Tyler wrote:

    The tapered mast tube, 9.2m x 165mm dia x 3mm wall, is on order with the Aluminium Lighting Company, and I'm awaiting a delivery date.

    I now have a delivery date of May 13th.
  • 11 Apr 2016 17:53
    Reply # 3941624 on 3858224

    Darren,

    As Jerry says, this is now remaindered stock, as Heathcoat Fabrics are no longer making sailcloth, more's the pity. When it's gone, it's gone, so I got some while I still could.

    Jerry,

    I never put any hollow in the leech. I believe this is the wrong solution to a fluttering leech, which is caused by the the sail being too tight in the middle of the panel, and so too slack at the edges. This is commonly caused by the yard bending. The solution is straightforward - put just a little convexity on the upper and lower edges of each panel, just as if you were aiming for a barrel cut, but nowhere near as much. 0.5% of the batten length is enough.

    I overlap cloths by 20mm, for two lines of zigzag stitching. Good sailcloth often has a faint blue line at this distance from the edge to aid in aligning the cloth. I still don't think 3 lines of stitching are necessary.

    For amateur method C, I would aim at 20mm finished width for clipper Canvas, so a basic 20mm seaming allowance on the top and bottom of each panel. However, to finish the edge neatly, I turn the edge of the upper panel under the edge of the seam, so then the lower edge of each panel has a 40mm seaming allowance. As a refinement, this seam can be felled and stitched to the lower panel, but this means passing the lower panel, rolled, under the arm of the machine; and the sail must be built from the top downwards.

  • 07 Apr 2016 21:49
    Reply # 3934813 on 3933474
    Arne Kverneland wrote:On a schooner, on the other hand, I guess the forward rake makes the foresail less prone to be gybed by the eddies from the mainsail.

    Arne

    When we launched Badger, both masts were perfectly plumb.  After a few thousand miles, we managed to induce a certain amount of forward rake in the foresail by removing all wedges at the forward face of the mast.  I doubt it was much more than a degree, but it did make a difference.  Three or four degrees would have meant that the sail was much more inclined to stay wung out even when being blanketed by the mainsail.  Certainly on Fantail, it's possible to sail by the lee to an extent that is almost ludicrous, so reluctant is the sail to self gybe.
  • 07 Apr 2016 12:18
    Reply # 3933635 on 3858224

    Darren, the Clipper Canvas David and I bought was from a UK ebay seller called 'english seadog' aka Neptune's Locker at Portland, Dorset. I bought approx 100 square metres and paid about £4.50 per sq metre which was an amazing bargain. David has bought quite a lot of it too, and I believe they were coming to the end of their stock, but it might be worth asking if they have any left. The cloth is the lighter 7.2 oz version.

    David, when making the panels using a wide leech tabling and the cloth aligned parallel to the leech, is it advisable to cut the upper panels with a small amount of leech hollow, eg 25mm in 2 metres, or is flutter unlikely to be a problem and they can be left straight?

    How wide do the vertical overlap seams joining the widths of sailcloth need to be? just enough to fit two or three rows of stitching, eg 18mm, or is it better to space them out a little more?

    Similarly with the panel joining seams, how wide a hem should be left protruding on the port side of the sail using amateur method C or on the starboard side with Arne's method B?


  • 07 Apr 2016 10:30
    Reply # 3933474 on 3932796
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Annie Hill wrote:I suppose, as ever, it's horses for courses.  Often in the summer, we get a big easterly swell here in North Island, NZ.  There's plenty of fetch!  Even a mile offshore there can be some reflection, and in light airs, this can throw the boat around a bit.  Without forward rake, I think there would be more problems keeping the sail asleep when running.  But I would guess that you don't have many problems with big swells in your part of the world.

    Annie,
    you have an interesting point there. With Broremann and Frøken Sørensen I have stayed in protected waters. However, with Malena and Johanna I travelled more along the coast, which many places is open to the sea (about 200NM open waters to Scotland). On one very special occasion (in Malena), I ended up running before a light wind (F2-3) from NW, with old North Sea swell coming in from SW, in perfect resonance with Malena’s roll rate. When trying to dampen the roll by sheeting in the sail, the sail was flung from side to side at each roll. Then I just squared out the sail. The wind was enough to keep us going at around 3 kts, I guess, but we rolled to the batten next to the boom got dipped at every roll. Luckily, that didn’t appear to stress the sail, so I just kept on. As by magic, the big sail stood as nailed to the mast, waving like a giant hand as the mast swung 20-30° to each side. My conclusion then was “How lucky we are to have no shrouds”. I guess a forward mast rake would add even more resistance against “roll gybing”, but I feel that for my use, on a sloop, the plumb mast will mostly be good enough. On a schooner, on the other hand, I guess the forward rake makes the foresail less prone to be gybed by the eddies from the mainsail.

    Arne

    Last modified: 07 Apr 2016 10:34 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 07 Apr 2016 06:25
    Reply # 3933137 on 3858224
    Deleted user

    David, the Clipper Canvas looks brilliant and I am more than partial to the tanbark colour, but I don't understand your comment on price.  I did a quick check of online prices, and it looks like it would be about 3X the cost of Mustang or Top Gun 9.  Granted you get a really nice sailcloth, but have I made some error in pricing?  Where did you get the Clipper Canvas from?

  • 06 Apr 2016 22:09
    Reply # 3932796 on 3858224
    I suppose, as ever, it's horses for courses.  Often in the summer, we get a big easterly swell here in North Island, NZ.  There's plenty of fetch!  Even a mile offshore there can be some reflection, and in light airs, this can throw the boat around a bit.  Without forward rake, I think there would be more problems keeping the sail asleep when running.  But I would guess that you don't have many problems with big swells in your part of the world.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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