SibLim - the setup

  • 17 Nov 2015 19:55
    Reply # 3639158 on 3636564
    David Tyler wrote:

    another change I would make would be to replace Annie's bi-fold washboard with a single fold-down or slide-down washboard, raising the sill height; and then adding a sliding hatch and garage. I have a sketch design of a way of incorporating a rotating pramhood into this arrangement, but I have been unable to convince Annie of its merits. I would want a settee berth near the centreline, for cat-napping, but this is probably a matter of personal choice.

    I have lived with a single fold-down washboard and much prefer the 'stable door' arrangement.  It's great to be able to have the top open when it's raining, or just for a short while in winter when the sun is shining and warming the place up, when having the whole companionway open is too much of a good thing.

    I have never met anyone who, hand on heart, can claim the sliding hatch didn't leak in extremis - just when you don't want it to leak.  Driving rain from astern can be an issue, too.  As well, they tend to be either so stiff as to need brute force to open them, or so slippery that you need to secure them open or shut.  As I see no reason for a larger entrance than I will have, I see no need to risk a sliding hatch!

  • 17 Nov 2015 19:48
    Reply # 3639125 on 3634967
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    Beautiful work Annie. I bet you would have become a great welder as well, if you decided for it.

    Cheers, Arne 

    Thanks for that, Arne: all compliments gratefully received!  However, I don't think I'd have ever made a welder.  To me, metal is noisy, dirty, unaesthetic, cold and unpleasant to work with.  Someone once offered to teach my how to weld and I refused without so much as a second thought.  I don't often turn down the opportunity of learning a new skill!
  • 16 Nov 2015 19:43
    Reply # 3636564 on 3636480
    Chris Gallienne wrote:
    Annie Hill wrote:

    David has an "Offshore" version, too, with the ballast lowered for ocean crossings...

    I would be interested in reading the details of this - how much lower? And does the "Offshore" version have any other modifications?

    Chris


    I was thinking of lowering the ballast by 100mm, to make the draught about 800mm. This would mean adding some exra deadwood between ballast and hull. This assumes that the bilgeboards are retained. A fin keel could be fitted, with no bilgeboards, and then the draught could be as desired by the skipper - 1200mm?

    another change I would make would be to replace Annie's bi-fold washboard with a single fold-down or slide-down washboard, raising the sill height; and then adding a sliding hatch and garage. I have a sketch design of a way of incorporating a rotating pramhood into this arrangement, but I have been unable to convince Annie of its merits. I would want a settee berth near the centreline, for cat-napping, but this is probably a matter of personal choice.

  • 16 Nov 2015 19:06
    Reply # 3636480 on 3632632
    Deleted user
    Annie Hill wrote:

    David has an "Offshore" version, too, with the ballast lowered for ocean crossings...

    I would be interested in reading the details of this - how much lower? And does the "Offshore" version have any other modifications?

    Chris


  • 16 Nov 2015 14:10
    Reply # 3636128 on 3634893
    Deleted user
    Annie Hill wrote:Well, Arne, I've run several miles of fillet over the years of boatbuilding that I've done and consider myself a reasonably dab hand at it.  The The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction (my other Bible) advises making a softer compound than I use.  I think they have a better-controlled environment and can time going back to the fillets for a second swipe better than I can, (distracted by bread making, the need to go and buy something, the fact that it's already 2030 and I haven't eaten, etc).  So I mix up my filleting compound of around 4 parts colloidal silica (for strength) and 1 part microfibres (to help the epoxy wick through this thick mix).  I mix it very thick until it almost feels like it won't take any more.  I then add microballoons (to make it easier to sand), and it's amazing how many you'll be able to add.  To get a consistency that won't sag, I find that when I take out the mixing stick, the peaks of goop should stand upright.  If they fold over, add more microballoons.


    If you are glassing over it, you can gently press on the cloth being extremely careful not to deform the fillet, and then wet it out, again very gently.  Otherwise leave it until it's almost set before overcoating it with clear resin.  If that's going to be some time in the middle of the night, or you're doing some other job, then it's fine to go back and give it a light sanding before coating it.  If your fillet seems a bit rough, leave it to go hard, sand it and overcoat it.

    I always put a coat of clear resin over the top of fillets (as the Bible recommends): it seals the fillet (in case of minor holes) and leaves a smooth, hard, shiny surface which stays clean.  Fillets of pure silica are often quite rough, even with the best of efforts and over time, dirt will lodge in them attracting mould which will be difficult to clean out.



    How I wish I'd known exactly how it's done last year. (the results were ok, but) Thank you Annie for next time!
  • 15 Nov 2015 22:11
    Reply # 3634967 on 3520497
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Beautiful work Annie. I bet you would have become a great welder as well, if you decided for it.

    Cheers, Arne 

  • 15 Nov 2015 20:05
    Reply # 3634893 on 3520497
    Well, Arne, I've run several miles of fillet over the years of boatbuilding that I've done and consider myself a reasonably dab hand at it.  The The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction (my other Bible) advises making a softer compound than I use.  I think they have a better-controlled environment and can time going back to the fillets for a second swipe better than I can, (distracted by bread making, the need to go and buy something, the fact that it's already 2030 and I haven't eaten, etc).  So I mix up my filleting compound of around 4 parts colloidal silica (for strength) and 1 part microfibres (to help the epoxy wick through this thick mix).  I mix it very thick until it almost feels like it won't take any more.  I then add microballoons (to make it easier to sand), and it's amazing how many you'll be able to add.  To get a consistency that won't sag, I find that when I take out the mixing stick, the peaks of goop should stand upright.  If they fold over, add more microballoons.


    If you are glassing over it, you can gently press on the cloth being extremely careful not to deform the fillet, and then wet it out, again very gently.  Otherwise leave it until it's almost set before overcoating it with clear resin.  If that's going to be some time in the middle of the night, or you're doing some other job, then it's fine to go back and give it a light sanding before coating it.  If your fillet seems a bit rough, leave it to go hard, sand it and overcoat it.

    I always put a coat of clear resin over the top of fillets (as the Bible recommends): it seals the fillet (in case of minor holes) and leaves a smooth, hard, shiny surface which stays clean.  Fillets of pure silica are often quite rough, even with the best of efforts and over time, dirt will lodge in them attracting mould which will be difficult to clean out.


    Last modified: 15 Nov 2015 20:07 | Anonymous member
  • 14 Nov 2015 09:58
    Reply # 3633054 on 3632615
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Annie Hill wrote:

    While David has been making lots of expensive wood shavings and sawdust, I've been back on the filleting.  I suppose someone has to do it.  (For those who don't know epoxy techniques, filleting is running coves of thickened epoxy up joints, to increase strength and to ensure gap free joints.) 


    Annie,
    I bet you can call yourself a Master Filleter at the end of the project. I have done it only in small scale, and it tends to look like my hand-writing  -  not so good. May I ask what you mix into the resin, colodial silica, microfiber  or what?

    KUTGW! (keep up...)

    Arne

    Last modified: 14 Nov 2015 09:58 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 13 Nov 2015 21:38
    Reply # 3632632 on 3630877
    Linda Crew-Gee wrote:

    Dearest Annie

    I've been following SibLim project with enormous interest. It is high time I posted something too.

    I am absolutely thrilled that David's design strung all the right cords and of you went, all bells ringing! The speed at which you are progressing is dizzying. I cannot believe it. 

    Thank you and David for keeping us so well posted and for yet another inspiration! It's wonderful to follow your (and many of ours) dreams unfolding.  I wished I was closer to NZ as I'd love to help with SibLim in making. I have been talking to boat builders in Croatia about building SibLim for me ... I will be in touch!

    Meanwhile I will follow this forum very closely.  

    Sending you tons of energy from the Adriatic 

    Linda 

    Linda

    So good to hear from you.  I hope you're having heaps of fun back in the Adriatic - it must be good to be out of London.  I'm so pleased you regard our progress as dizzying: David has been grinding his teeth at my insistence on panelling bulkheads and wanting spaces that no-one is going to see to be as well finished as those on view.  No doubt this is a ridiculous attitude, but I want to know that all the boat is as well made and finished as I could achieve.

    I am sure a SibLim would suit you very well: you're not tall and she would be a wonderful boat for general cruising.  David has an "Offshore" version, too, with the ballast lowered for ocean crossings, which you might prefer for next time you go round the Horn :-)

  • 13 Nov 2015 21:32
    Reply # 3632615 on 3520497
    David has had the wonderful job of working with real (and really expensive!) wood, making the skegs.  We are using kwila, a heavyish tropical hardwood.  I feel more than a little guilty about using it because the stuff we bought was dressed, ie planed all round with finished corners.  This is a dodge around the export of raw timber in order that the country growing it can add value and sell it, for example, as furniture.  Kwila is also doubtfully sustainable, although my wood suppliers say that they only source sustainable woods.  Building a boat is a bit of an ethical nightmare at times.  My main consolation is that with any luck, SibLim will be around for a long time.  I'm certainly doing everything I can to ensure that there will be nowhere for freshwater to lodge in contact with bare wood.

    While David has been making lots of expensive wood shavings and sawdust, I've been back on the filleting.  I suppose someone has to do it.  (For those who don't know epoxy techniques, filleting is running coves of thickened epoxy up joints, to increase strength and to ensure gap free joints.) 

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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