Flapping mainsail on schooner rig

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  • 15 Nov 2014 21:42
    Reply # 3152040 on 3151671
    Anonymous
     

    Many thanks for your ideas. By lifting/flapping/fluttering I mean that instead of the luff and the adjacent part of the sail being taught and filled, it goes slack, same as if you point too high. With stronger winds this part of the sail flaps. The foresail is always perfect. My bolt rope is very stiff, but the main sail was attached with the rope so tight that there is some puckering of the cloth. I'll alter this first, but it's very interesting about the aspect ratio. I think single sail rigs would be faster than schooners etc. The thing that surprised me was the difference between the fore and main sails. There must be some interference of the airflow over the main by the foresail. This doesn't happen at low wind speeds, only at F4 and above. I've just done 500M dead against F4-6 winds so I've had time to observe!

  • 15 Nov 2014 13:14
    Reply # 3151911 on 3151671
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Alan

    I think it is most important to fit the boltrope correctly, that is, the roping must be on the taut side. It has to take the vertical loads alone. If the roping is fitted with slightly uneven tension, the luff will flap on the bad spots.

    On Johanna's sail I got some flapping in the leech of the lowest setting panel. I gave the stretchy boltrope webbing the blame for this. On the two later sails I have made, the webbing does not stretch and there is no flapping.

    Arne

    PS: I gather you by flapping mean that the luff is flicking back and forth at some speed? I am a bit uncertain when I hear the words flapping, fluttering and flogging...

    Last modified: 15 Nov 2014 13:16 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 15 Nov 2014 10:44
    Reply # 3151871 on 3151671

    Hi Alan,

    Arion has a 7 panel sail with a distance of 1.22m between the parallel battens which are 4.6m long.  It is a reasonably high aspect ratio sail, with about 8% camber in the lower four panels, about 4% in the transitional panel and about 2% in the top two panels.  I have a 100mm tabling up the luff and leech, both of which were cut with slight hollows between the battens.  My luff shows no sign of lifting or flapping.  If I point too close to the wind, the cambered panel will shiver slightly (and boat speed drop off) but the luff itself remains taut. My luff is quite flat, the camber only appears further back in the panel and then disappears again by the time you get to the leech.  I'd probably choose a flattish sail for a boat that mostly cruises offshore but without a doubt, my sail sets well and is very powerful, especially against the wind in flattish seas (otherwise the fat little hull stops play!)

    Last modified: 15 Nov 2014 10:46 | Anonymous member
  • 15 Nov 2014 09:22
    Reply # 3151865 on 3151671
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Alan,

    in that case my guess is that the long batten distance of your hi-AR mainsail  is the main problem. Since you made your cambered sails, I have designed a range of  7-panel 'master sails' with the AR ranging  from 1.80 to 2.25. There I suggest to add an 8th and even a 9th lower panel if one need higher AR. This is to keep the luff spans between the battens reasonably short.

    Since you are stuck with the sail you have, all I can suggest is to try making the section close to the luff stiffer and heavier. This could be done by doubling or tripling the sail in a 20cm wide band along the luff and finally re-rope the luff with a stiff and not-stretchy rope.

    Arne

    Last modified: 15 Nov 2014 09:34 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 15 Nov 2014 04:04
    Reply # 3151813 on 3151671
    Anonymous

    PS It's still much better than the flat sails. On an ocean passage against the wind in F4 and above I used to make 25nm made good. It's now 40nm!

  • 15 Nov 2014 04:01
    Reply # 3151811 on 3151671
    Anonymous

    Hi Arne,many thanks for the your reply. The problem has always been there. The main is now 6% camber. I have fitted a downhaul and it did help a little. But as the wind increases, the flapping becomes worse, extending including the forward third of the sail. I seem to sail faster and closer without the mainsail!

  • 14 Nov 2014 21:41
    Reply # 3151698 on 3151671
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Alan,

    the difference between the sails you have and mine is that yours have a much higher aspect ratio (around 2.5?). In addition, on the only schooner (Samson) I have designed a JR for, I gave the foresail 10% camber, and the mainsail only  8%.

    I can think of one or two possible reasons for your problem:

    • The high AR leads to a very long batten distance (p). This makes the luff more vulnerable to flapping.
    • A second possible reason could be that the boltrope has gone slack. Have you had this problem with the cambered sail from day one, or has it developed over time?

    Arne

    PS: If you by 'lifting' mean that the airflow from the close-hauled foresail blows into the mainsail, I guess the only remedy is to ease the sheet of the foresail a bit and point a bit lower. After all, a cambered junk sail is just another cambered sail, and this lifting in the mainsail of a Bm sloop is quite normal. I checked the drawing of Samson's sails. On both of them the max camber point is as far aft as 40% from the luff. This, in combination with the flatter 8% camber in the main could be the reason why his mainsail does not lift. Another reason could be that the owner does not point his ship that close to the wind.

    PPS: Have you tried some sort of downhaul to keep the luff of the main taut?

     

    Last modified: 14 Nov 2014 23:44 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 14 Nov 2014 20:48
    Message # 3151671
    Anonymous

    Zebedee's Arne type sails work perfectly under about F3, but with stronger winds the luff of the main starts to lift. Sheeting in simply increase weather helm and slows the boat. I have reduced the main camber from 10 to 6% producing a ?slight benefit. I can fall off the wind and stop the flapping, but this substantially reduces the tacking angle. Has anyone else had similar problems? Any ideas if causes? The bolt rope may be slightly tight.

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