Jonathan Snodgrass wrote:

I would guess that your total of GBP 20k approx would cover materials and parts. 

I would guess, however, that it might need to be nearly all self help or free labour.

I haven't a cat in hell's chance of employing labour except, perhaps, for some of the woodwork that I simply find beyond me.  Even if I could con someone into working at $25 an hour, I'd soon go through my savings.  This is one of the reasons why the boat has to be simple to build.

I don't have my copy to hand because it is on our boat, but I seem to remember from Voyaging on a Small Income that your first build of Badger cost approximately GBP 6k.  I suspect that, adjusted for inflation, that would be well above GBP 20k nowadays.  However, based on a significantly smaller boat with a single mast rig, you might have a healthy margin.

GBP10,000 actually.  Probably at least 30,000 today, but Sib-Lim is only 30% of the displacement, and, logically, that should be 30% of the materials.

And you have somewhat less than half of your total projected capital available at the outset.  And I seem to remember reading about self building that there is a rule of thumb that the cost of the hull and deck is often about a third of the final cost of the boat.  (Measured in either currency or manhours.) 

So, if you went ahead you might presumably be able to build a hull and deck to live-aboard standard from your savings.  And then you could have a floating home to move into to allow you to sell Fantail.

My plan, if you could call it such a thing, would be to draw down on capital, once I'd spent my savings, to the equivalent of what I hope to get for Fantail.  I refuse to live on a part-built boat again.  Three times is more than enough!

Annie Hill wrote:

 

 

I can't do this at all accurately, but the figure in my mind is $NZ45,000.  $25,000 for Fantail, and $20,000 that I've managed to save I'm not quite sure how, as an alternative to insurance.  I am trying to save money every month from my small income, so the longer it takes the more I'll have!  If I decided to go ahead with the project, I'd start seriously scavenging for second-hand and bargain deals well in advance of building. Of course, the cost would have to take into account the rent on a building site.

However, it is a meaningless figure outside this country.  Eight years ago, $45,000 would have translated to GBP13,500; a year ago GBP 23,850; today GBP21,600.  Maybe I could build this same boat for considerably less in the USA if I were prepared to use local plywood.  It would possibly cost less in the UK, but I'd have to pay more for a building space, perhaps. Who really knows?  Overall, I believe it makes the most sense to challenge my designers to keep all the costs to a minimum where compatible with longevity: it's not like anyone is under the illusion that I'm independently wealthy! 

Annie

Thank you for that. 

In 'Voyaging on a Small Income' you were fully open about your finances. Indeed that was the intention reflected in the title.

Might you have a third book in the offing:  'Boat Building on a Small Income'?

I would guess that your total of GBP 20k approx would cover materials and parts. 

I would guess, however, that it might need to be nearly all self help or free labour. 

I don't have my copy to hand because it is on our boat, but I seem to remember from Voyaging on a Small Income that your first build of Badger cost approximately GBP 6k.  I suspect that, adjusted for inflation, that would be well above GBP 20k nowadays.  However, based on a significantly smaller boat with a single mast rig, you might have a healthy margin.

And you have somewhat less than half of your total projected capital available at the outset.  And I seem to remember reading about self building that there is a rule of thumb that the cost of the hull and deck is often about a third of the final cost of the boat.  (Measured in either currency or manhours.) 

So, if you went ahead you might presumably be able to build a hull and deck to live-aboard standard from your savings.  And then you could have a floating home to move into to allow you to sell Fantail. 

I seem to remember that David Tyler had the hull of Tystie built by a boatyard.  But that is a much bigger and more complex hull.  However, hundreds of people built Maurice Griffiths Eventide 24s and 26s, from marine ply as self builds, often single handed.  (Indeed I used to own a MG 26 Athaena design, built very beautifully by one man in his spare time - but he was a cabinet maker.) 

As you say, at the appropriate stage, you and/or your designer will therefore do the requisite costing of at least the materials for at least the hull and deck to make sure that it is compatible with your finances. 

I, and I am sure many others, will continue to watch with great interest, and encourage from the sidelines!

Cheers

Jonathan  

 

 

 

David Tyler wrote:

Hampus Mattsson wrote:

I like the profile view - very reminiscent of an earlier, smaller design, the name of which escapes me. Stone Horse, was it?

Yes, indeed, very attractive.  Stone Horse.  Of course: Edey and Duff.

David Webb wrote:I should have my drawing board available in another four weeks or so, so will start drawing her up to scale then before we leave for Australia for the winter months.

Well, David (W, that is: there are really far too many Davids on this thread!), I'm looking forward to seeing that.  It will be good to see the two designs side by side, so to speak.

David Tyler wrote:

Coming alongside might be a bit fraught, with the boards so exposed, and they really need to be canted inboard at the top, so that they dig deeper, the more you heel.

You're right, she'll need more ballast. My understanding is that shoal draft boats like this need to be rather heavy, to give them some grip on the water - both for stability and so as not to blow around when manoeuvring in tight places.

Yeah, if going alongside often is important the lee boards should be reconsidered. Canting them would certainlly be better from a hydrodynamic point of view but there are also a few downsides. They would have to run through the interior and take up some space. Construction would be slightly more complicated. During harbor maneuvres at least one of them would be drawn up to block part of the deck. Also, depending on the angle they cant, the friction might become an issue while raising or lowering them. Maybe to an extent that would require a trip up on deck each time you tack. No big issues though and if performance is key there'd be no doubt about it.

Estmating the final hull, interior and rig weight, the ballast should probabe be around 1500 kg. Somewhere between 30 and 40% of the total displacement. Probably closer to 40...