I have just picked up on this discussion and the previous thread about drag issues from the outboard. Footprints also has a high thrust outboard in a well so I have had some experience of this issue. We often leave our motor down when sailing, out of gear, and find it does not produce any drag, well not noticeable anyway. The thing that produces drag from an outboard well installation is the actual aperture of the well itself. Our well is not on the centerline but off to the port side right at the stern of the boat.  So here is what we do on Footprints: Firstly I have made and fitted a plywood anti cavitation plate to the outboard which when the outboard is lowered almost closes the well aperture. There is just enough clearance to raise or lower the motor. The main reason for this anti cavitation plate is to improve motoring efficiency as I had noticed that the propeller used to suck a lot of air down from the outboard well. When sailing with the outboard lowered this anti cavitation plate effectively closes off the outboard well reducing the drag. If we sail with the motor up and the outboard well closing off flap not down we loose over a knot of boat speed when the well is to leeward. If we are sailing any long distance I raise the motor and close off the outboard well aperture with a hinge down flap that we have. This results in a very clean underbody and no drag.

I also noticed your comments about the difficulty of raising and lowering the motor. After much experimentation I have rigged up a simple winch system to raise and lower our motor. There is a length of 6mm spectra line which begins at the top of the well on one side, goes down and across the top of the outboard clamping board (through a block mounted each side) which slides in vertical grooves either side of the well, then up and through a block to a 3:1 reduction boat trailer winch. With this system even our 10 year old daughter can raise and lower the motor. I initially used to physically lift the motor which was killing my back. I tried various block and tackle arrangements but in the end the simple winch system has been highly successful. Total cost for the winch, blocks and line was less than NZ$100.

Gary King wrote:

Continuing from previous thread..  where this one has more appropriate subject header..

Getting to raise the OB further up the well works, finally having another sail, Ashiki headed on a beam reach out and back at 4 to 4.5 knots while under canvassed in about 15 knots, and was barely out sailed by a plastic 35 footer nearby. Under canvassed, of course, because we dont raise the sails all the way up (that issue not sorted yet). The rudder doesnt jerk around either, which means the deeply protruding OB was the cause of this on top of almost 1 knot's worth of drag.

Also connected up the Belcher plywood windvane to the trim tab for the first time, it worked brilliantly. Like magic! Susie thought it was boring, nothing to do! I just loved watching it do its thing. On the reach back the control lines stretched too much so needed to go back to hand steering. But what a marvellous design! Might need to invest in some 4mm spectra next...

cheers

Congratulations with your improvements, both with the reduced drag, the improved waterflow over the rudder, and now the Belcher type selfsteering. Is it an OGT Mk II? Yes, a well-working windvane selfsteering is an amazing thing. I could sit watching my "Otto" doing the job for hours.

I am really happy on your behalf  -  after so much work you deserve success!

Arne