Some sail modifications needed after 10,000 miles

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  • 24 Oct 2013 00:51
    Reply # 1420063 on 1419989
    Guy Bartholomé wrote:David,

    Thanks for all these precious informations.

     You propose little corrections on your sail, but  if you had to build a new sail which details would you eventually change ?

    What do you think about the broadseams of Slieve Mac Galliard as described in the pages 16, 17 and 49,50  in his public domain info ?
    What could be the avantages or disavantages of a smooth curve like the one obtained by the method of Slieve used in the top and the main panels ?  In other words, is there any avantage to make panels with deep broadseams going throught a part of the parallelogram ?
    May I ask you why you didn't use this deeper broadseam technic ?

    Have a good trip !

    Guy



    I made the sail so that the broad-seaming forms a rectangular crossection to each panel. I would like to alter the sail so that the "shelf" at the top and bottom of each panel was at 30degrees to horizontal. Then it is easy to make the calculation - sin30 is 0.5, and the panel would be cut with a curve of half the required depth of camber, and the broad-seam would extend into the sail by the depth of camber, which would be half the depth of camber inside the straight line from luff to leech. Does that make sense? Slieve uses a 45 degree shelf, which is fine, but the 30 degree shelf is easier for a practical, hands-on sailmaker to understand and do, without making mistakes.
  • 24 Oct 2013 00:02
    Reply # 1420039 on 1419789
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    David Tyler wrote:Two things that I need to fix this winter:
    1. ...
    2. The batten pockets have foam and webbing fenders on them in way of the mast. Using Arne's method of making pockets, the pocket is able to rotate about the batten, even if there are webbing loops at the leech and luff to support the batten there. So the pockets have been contacting the mast above where the fenders were sewn on, and have worn through. This is a definite disadvantage of this way of making the pockets. On Footprints' sail, we made the pockets in a different way, with the lower edge of the pocket sewn to the lower panel, and upper edge of the pocket sewn into the seam between panels (still without needing to pass a roll of cloth under the machine). With two points of attachment, the fenders should stay between the batten and the mast, and I've not heard from David Thatcher that he's had any problems here. I should remake my batten pockets according to this principle.

     

    David,

    I am aware of that the batten pockets may rotate about the battens  -  I've lived with them since 1994. The simple solution is to make the whole batten pocket at the mast from very thick and strong material. I have used thick PVC for batten pockets on a couple of sails, last time on Edmond Dantes, as shown here. With foam around the batten, inside the strong batten pocket, this should last for a good while. Besides, with Amateur method B, it is dead easy to either rip off the pocket and add a new one, or to simply sew a new pocket on top of the worn one at the damaged area.

    The "Footprint method" will of course work as well, but is a lot more difficult to make.

    Cheers, Arne

    PS: Now I had to check my write-up (Chapter 5 of "The Cambered Panel Junk Rig"), and yes, in the description of Amateur Method B, I recommend using PVC canvas  at the mast.

    Last modified: 24 Oct 2013 00:13 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 23 Oct 2013 22:49
    Reply # 1419989 on 1419789
    Anonymous
    David,

    Thanks for all these precious informations.

     You propose little corrections on your sail, but  if you had to build a new sail which details would you eventually change ?

    What do you think about the broadseams of Slieve Mac Galliard as described in the pages 16, 17 and 49,50  in his public domain info ?
    What could be the avantages or disavantages of a smooth curve like the one obtained by the method of Slieve used in the top and the main panels ?  In other words, is there any avantage to make panels with deep broadseams going throught a part of the parallelogram ?
    May I ask you why you didn't use this deeper broadseam technic ?

    Have a good trip !

    Guy



  • 23 Oct 2013 18:34
    Message # 1419789
    Two things that I need to fix this winter:
    1. The bottom two panels are showing some breakdown of the cloth near the leech due to flapping when the sail is reefed by one or two panels. The second panel up is the worst, as the wind speed would naturally be higher when two reefs are needed. I should have added a wide doubler, maybe about 500mm wide, when I built the sail, and I should add this as a patch.
    2. The batten pockets have foam and webbing fenders on them in way of the mast. Using Arne's method of making pockets, the pocket is able to rotate about the batten, even if there are webbing loops at the leech and luff to support the batten there. So the pockets have been contacting the mast above where the fenders were sewn on, and have worn through. This is a definite disadvantage of this way of making the pockets. On Footprints' sail, we made the pockets in a different way, with the lower edge of the pocket sewn to the lower panel, and upper edge of the pocket sewn into the seam between panels (still without needing to pass a roll of cloth under the machine). With two points of attachment, the fenders should stay between the batten and the mast, and I've not heard from David Thatcher that he's had any problems here. I should remake my batten pockets according to this principle.
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