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DIY Dilemma: Telescopic aluminium, split-mold carbon, or a hybrid mast?

  • 29 May 2026 16:32
    Reply # 13637129 on 13637047

    Back around 1990, I worked at Kemp Masts UK (part of the Selden group), and built for myself a carbon mast about 10m long, around a male former. Yes, sag was a problem, and the mast needed to be supported at several points along its length while curing. Eventually, it turned out to be serviceable, but no lighter and no stiffer than an aluminium mast would have been. It’s not easy, it’s messy and takes a long time. The resin must have a very long pot life, and must also be suitable for service at high temperatures. How do I know? Because I made some carbon battens on a male mandrel (an aluminium tube that needed a 4WD truck to pull it out) I used WEST resin; they were OK in a cool climate, but softened and broke in the tropics.  While I was at Kemp Masts, some space was rented to a guy who wanted to make a wingmast in a female mould, similar to the way you are thinking. Again, a lot of labour and a lot of mess. I can’t remember how he made his mould, and I can’t think of a quick, easy and accurate way to make a tapered cylindrical half mould. I really wouldn’t consider going this route, even as a topmast section.

    The first choice, I think, should always be to look for an aluminium conical tapered light pole or flag pole. They have been available in the past, and may be available now, but you have to persuade the manufacturer or his agent to sell you a single pole with no cutouts. In Norway, you could try an approach to Hydro. For a Scanmar 33, you probably need a diameter at deck level of ~ 200mm - 225mm, and the largest one on the Hydro data sheet is 13.7m LOA (12m above ground, 1.7m below ground, when used as they intend) x 200mm diameter. Your calculations may indicate that this is not strong enough, at only 3.3mm wall; in which case, I think that the answer is to add a larger cylindrical tube from the heel up to boom level, or a little above - maybe ~ 4m of 225mm diameter x 6mm wall or thereabouts. If you can’t find a 200mm tapered tube, the next option might be a 165mm or 145mm tapered tube as the top section of a 3 piece telescopic mast. And if you can’t find any tapered tubes at all, then it has to be the telescopic parallel tube option. I no longer get too concerned about weight aloft, even with a wooden top. When you add the weight of the standing rigging to the weight of an untapered bermudan mast, the total’s not so very different from that of an unstayed mast assembled from several pieces.  

  • 29 May 2026 12:37
    Message # 13637047

    Hi everyone,

    Even though I have invested most of my thinking on aluminum telescopic mast, I can't seem to stop thinking about a diy carbon fiber mast for a junk rig conversion. I need a reality check on whether my proposed build method is reliable enough, or if it’s a recipe for failure.


    A professionally manufactured carbon mast is out of the question—it costs at least three times what the boat is worth. On the other hand, due to the lack of adequate off-the-shelf dimensions, I am struggling to get a 3-to-4-part telescopic aluminum mast below 3.5% of the boat's displacement. The mast specifications are 13.5m total (11.7m above deck, 1.8m bury) with a design bending moment of at least 70,000 Nm at the partners (2.5x safety margin).


    Because I cannot build a dead-straight, rigid mandrel that won't sag, and I am short-handed in the workshop, I am considering casting the mast in two halves using long, leveled "gutters" (split molds) on the workshop floor.

    The Halves: Laminate each half independently. The layup will be a heavy core of longitudinal UD-carbon fibers sandwiched between thin biaxial skins, trimmed perfectly flat to the mold edges, vacuum-bagged and cured.

    Once both halves are cured and sanded, both halves will be epoxied together and the inside will be covered a circular triaxial/biaxial weave (CF, glass or basalt) The halves are brought together, clamped hard from the outside at short intervals using custom clamping collars to prevent misalignment, and an internal bladder is inflated to press the inner weave tightly against the walls of the tube. This will then be cured completely.

    The external seam is sanded flush, and the whole mast wrapped in a continuous triaxial carbon weave, and vacuum-bagged. The goal is to lock the flat butt-joint in a "vice-grip" between the inner and outer hoop-strength layers to block shear and torsional forces without creating thick, asymmetric internal flanges.

    PS. I have also considered using a 6 metre aluminium mast, and then making the top part only from carbon fibre. Electrically isolating it with fibreglass from the aluminium, in the same style as some make a telescopic aluminium or an aluminum-wood-mast. If such a mast build would fail, it would not cost nearly as much.

    My Questions:

    1. Would it be acceptable to go for the much easier and more affordable aluminum, even if it is very heavy?

    2. Is this split-mold approach mechanically sound for a freestanding mast under continuous pumping, or will the longitudinal seam inevitably fail over time?

    3. Do you have any suggestions to how I could do this easier or more reliable?

    4. What is the most reliable bladder setup for an internal 13.5m taper to ensure even pressure without getting permanently trapped after curing?



    Thanks,


    Thomas


       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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