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3D printed parts for JR - A collaborative project

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  • 22 Dec 2025 17:15
    Quote
    Reply # 13575316 on 13571501
    Anonymous member

    Now I’ve printed the 38mm size, and it looks right -  but will appear oversized on a 25mm or 30mm batten.

    So I’ve adjusted the size downwards, and it looks better, so that one is now printing.

    Both are now here, if anyone with a printer would like to try them. 

    2 files
  • 22 Dec 2025 15:06
    Quote
    Reply # 13575253 on 13571501
    Anonymous member

    They look much better as the first ones!

    If I remeber correctly, also Paul T. fastens the leech to the battens with two screws (or rivets?) and a little plate...

    Well done David!
  • 22 Dec 2025 11:26
    Quote
    Reply # 13575194 on 13575176
    Anonymous member
    I wrote:
    I wrote:

    Mauro, and anyone else interested

    I hope you will be able to find the batten parrel fittings in 3mf format at 

    https://app.box.com/s/x15rq7cwd29hntk9fv5aldcc821b2q5m

    But apart from printing a sample or two, please don’t make too many just yet. This is a work in progress, and I think I’ve had a better idea overnight.

    … and here it is:

    The forward end is a mirror image of the middle fitting.

    If a short length of heavy duty 50mm webbing is sewn to the opposite side of the sail, the forward end can be screwed on with two M5 or #10 screws and large washers; the sail can be tensioned before tightening them, as they tighten the fitting onto the batten as well.

    The middle fitting wouldn’t be screwed to the sail, so the screw holes could probably be removed.

    Both fittings have four holes for 4mm or 5mm Dyneema batten parrel and HK parrel to be tied through with a snare knot or bowline; and the ends of these lines can be used to tie on items such as a Barton or Antal ring for the LHP.  Or the JRA hive mind will doubtless find other ways to use them! 

    Now I’ll make an after end fitting using the same method of fastening to the sail, but the sheet span must be attached on the axis of the batten to avoid any tendency to rotate it, so there won’t be any need for the four holes of the other fittings.  

    3 files
  • 22 Dec 2025 07:17
    Quote
    Reply # 13575176 on 13575114
    Anonymous member
    I wrote:

    Mauro, and anyone else interested

    I hope you will be able to find the batten parrel fittings in 3mf format at 

    https://app.box.com/s/x15rq7cwd29hntk9fv5aldcc821b2q5m

    But apart from printing a sample or two, please don’t make too many just yet. This is a work in progress, and I think I’ve had a better idea overnight.
  • 22 Dec 2025 05:12
    Quote
    Reply # 13575171 on 13571501
    Anonymous member

    Thank you very much David!
  • 21 Dec 2025 21:47
    Quote
    Reply # 13575114 on 13571501
    Anonymous member

    Mauro, and anyone else interested

    I hope you will be able to find the batten parrel fittings in 3mf format at 

    https://app.box.com/s/x15rq7cwd29hntk9fv5aldcc821b2q5m

    Last modified: 21 Dec 2025 21:49 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Dec 2025 19:52
    Quote
    Reply # 13575100 on 13571501
    Anonymous member

    Wow David!

    They look really cool!

     I would need the 25, 30 and 35mm version.

    My brother in law has a good 3D printer, would it be possible to get the files?

    Mauro
  • 21 Dec 2025 15:26
    Quote
    Reply # 13575042 on 13571501
    Anonymous member

    Here’s a batten/HK parrel fitting, sized for 4 or 5mm Dyneema and a 38mm batten, and I can easily adjust the hole size to anything smaller - 25, 30, 32, 35.

    This could be used at both the forward and after ends of the batten and HK parrels, so that the forward batten end has less to do. Adjusting the tension is easy - simply loosen the M5 x 50 csk screw, slide it to a new position, and retighten.

    3 files
    Last modified: 21 Dec 2025 15:32 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Dec 2025 14:58
    Quote
    Reply # 13575031 on 13571501
    Anonymous member

    Hi David,

    I‘m Glas that you like my ideas!

    I find intriguing the idea to secure the HK and batten parrels with a simple eight knot on one end (as you describe in another thread). I find this is a smart idea to adjust the parrel tension easily, without fuss. For the parrels I use 4mm dyneema. My actual battens have 25mm diameter and 2mm wall….anyway, I am thinking to sew a new sail with 60 deg yard, 26% mast balance and A/R of 2.18. I’m pondering to go for 30mm and 2mm wall to avoid batten bending.

    For the forward batten end I would prefer just holes and to use a block do the LHP. I don’t know if  the friction of the luff parrel could cut through the plastic…

    Batten fenders? Sounds very interesting! I committed a carbon mast and avoiding friction or contact with aluminum will be an issue….

    Have a nice Sunday 

    Mauro

     
  • 21 Dec 2025 08:37
    Quote
    Reply # 13574976 on 13574821
    Anonymous member
    Mauro wrote:

    Hallo David, 

    I am very interested to your batten end plugs. 
    Would be an idea to make something similar for the battens front end?  With more holes on the edge it could be possible to tie not only the luff to the battens but also the Hong Kong parrels, the block(s) for the throat hauling parrel and also tack parrel.

    It would be also interesting to make something similar for tying the aft end of HK and batten parrels …something divided in two halves that can be reassembled on the batten and secured with a hose clamp in the desired position….

    Cheers 

    Mauro

    I like these ideas, Mauro. I’ll do some work on them today. I can imagine a batten parrel fitting that takes a 25mm nylon webbing loop very neatly plus a hole for a HK parrel. Or just with two holes for a 4mm Dyneema batten parrel and HK parrel.

    For the forward end, maybe if the fitting is made from low friction material (PETG?), the running luff parrel can pass through a suitably shaped hole through it, so no need for a block? 

    I can imagine a batten fender that is fixed to the sail, with the batten passing through a loose hole, made of low friction plastic. A length of nearly 300mm would be possible on my printer.

    Also, for SJR, is there any place for a kind of batten fender/saddle that the batten passes through, and that goes maybe a third of the way around the mast, with provision for the downhaul?

    What diameters of batten should I assume? Perhaps one fitting with variations in hole size for 32mm, 35mm, 38mm and 40mm, to start with?
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