I wrote:

I wrote:

Mauro, and anyone else interested

I hope you will be able to find the batten parrel fittings in 3mf format at 

https://app.box.com/s/x15rq7cwd29hntk9fv5aldcc821b2q5m

But apart from printing a sample or two, please don’t make too many just yet. This is a work in progress, and I think I’ve had a better idea overnight.

… and here it is:

The forward end is a mirror image of the middle fitting.

If a short length of heavy duty 50mm webbing is sewn to the opposite side of the sail, the forward end can be screwed on with two M5 or #10 screws and large washers; the sail can be tensioned before tightening them, as they tighten the fitting onto the batten as well.

The middle fitting wouldn’t be screwed to the sail, so the screw holes could probably be removed.

Both fittings have four holes for 4mm or 5mm Dyneema batten parrel and HK parrel to be tied through with a snare knot or bowline; and the ends of these lines can be used to tie on items such as a Barton or Antal ring for the LHP.  Or the JRA hive mind will doubtless find other ways to use them! 

Now I’ll make an after end fitting using the same method of fastening to the sail, but the sheet span must be attached on the axis of the batten to avoid any tendency to rotate it, so there won’t be any need for the four holes of the other fittings.  

Thank you very much David!

Wow David!

They look really cool!

 I would need the 25, 30 and 35mm version.

My brother in law has a good 3D printer, would it be possible to get the files?

Mauro

Hi David,

I‘m Glas that you like my ideas!

I find intriguing the idea to secure the HK and batten parrels with a simple eight knot on one end (as you describe in another thread). I find this is a smart idea to adjust the parrel tension easily, without fuss. For the parrels I use 4mm dyneema. My actual battens have 25mm diameter and 2mm wall….anyway, I am thinking to sew a new sail with 60 deg yard, 26% mast balance and A/R of 2.18. I’m pondering to go for 30mm and 2mm wall to avoid batten bending.

For the forward batten end I would prefer just holes and to use a block do the LHP. I don’t know if  the friction of the luff parrel could cut through the plastic…

Batten fenders? Sounds very interesting! I committed a carbon mast and avoiding friction or contact with aluminum will be an issue….

Have a nice Sunday 

Mauro

Anonymous wrote:

Hello Paul,

You’re right, of course, about making a mould for laminating highly stressed parts from carbon, kevlar or glass -  this is what I had to do for the noses of my wingsail, using kevlar tubular braid, and it would have saved me a lot of mould-making time if I’d had a 3D printer back then.

But getting up to my elbows in resin was never much fun, and moulding a number of items from one mould and then waiting for them to cure takes a lot of work and time. Such parts as batten ends and mast wedges are not highly stressed (even softwood is plenty good enough), so don’t you think it's better to have a printer quietly and cleanly turning them out while a rig builder gets on with something that actually needs their manual input?

I guess you have experience of the stronger carbon-filled printing filaments -  do you really think that these won’t be able to carry the loads in a masthead, for example, given good design?

Anyway, I’m making some progress with learning to use Fusion now, so here’s a better 30mm batten aft end plug for Kevin.

Hallo David, 

I am very interested to your batten end plugs. 
Would be an idea to make something similar for the battens front end?  With more holes on the edge it could be possible to tie not only the luff to the battens but also the Hong Kong parrels, the block(s) for the throat hauling parrel and also tack parrel.

It would be also interesting to make something similar for tying the aft end of HK and batten parrels …something divided in two halves that can be reassembled on the batten and secured with a hose clamp in the desired position….

Cheers 

Mauro