Mehitabel junk schooner rig

  • 30 Aug 2024 01:34
    Reply # 13400651 on 13399232
    Arne wrote:

    Recently I’ve fitted thinner lines on a couple of places. Unfortunately, I’ve found these more prone to catching every imaginable nut or knob. I think it is better now to use thicker lines for sheetlets. At around 8mm, they will be less likely to catch small nuts.

    Arne


    Absolutely, I arrived at the same conclusion and am also using 8mm where before I used 6mm
  • 30 Aug 2024 00:35
    Reply # 13399629 on 13399232
    Anonymous wrote:
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Arne wrote:

    The matter of keeping any running lines and batten ends from fouling each other could deserve its own topic.
    The short version here about Mehitabel is that I would take care to keep the batten ends flush with the leech of the foresail and also keep the them flush with the luff of the mainsail. Avoiding protruding details, in the rig and on deck, is essential.


    Running lines will catch anything possible plus a few more, whenever they can. Everyone who sail, learn this, and not least junkies...

    Arne


    Yes, Arne, that is true  but there is fouling that can be prevented by good design and fouling that one can do nothing about. I doubt that many would argue that my leach batten ends are not flush. However even the small button head bolts can snag and I am now counter sinking the heads, so that they are entirely flush.


    Recently I’ve fitted thinner lines on a couple of places. Unfortunately, I’ve found these more prone to catching every imaginable nut or knob. I think it is better now to use thicker lines for sheetlets. At around 8mm, they will be less likely to catch small nuts.

    Arne


    On Arion and Blue Moon, my sheetlets were 8mm and the sheet 10mm, which works perfectly for me.
  • 29 Aug 2024 09:32
    Reply # 13399232 on 13399118
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Arne wrote:

    The matter of keeping any running lines and batten ends from fouling each other could deserve its own topic.
    The short version here about Mehitabel is that I would take care to keep the batten ends flush with the leech of the foresail and also keep the them flush with the luff of the mainsail. Avoiding protruding details, in the rig and on deck, is essential.


    Running lines will catch anything possible plus a few more, whenever they can. Everyone who sail, learn this, and not least junkies...

    Arne


    Yes, Arne, that is true  but there is fouling that can be prevented by good design and fouling that one can do nothing about. I doubt that many would argue that my leach batten ends are not flush. However even the small button head bolts can snag and I am now counter sinking the heads, so that they are entirely flush.


    Recently I’ve fitted thinner lines on a couple of places. Unfortunately, I’ve found these more prone to catching every imaginable nut or knob. I think it is better now to use thicker lines for sheetlets. At around 8mm, they will be less likely to catch small nuts.

    Arne


  • 29 Aug 2024 01:09
    Reply # 13399118 on 13398734
    Arne wrote:

    The matter of keeping any running lines and batten ends from fouling each other could deserve its own topic.
    The short version here about Mehitabel is that I would take care to keep the batten ends flush with the leech of the foresail and also keep the them flush with the luff of the mainsail. Avoiding protruding details, in the rig and on deck, is essential.


    Running lines will catch anything possible plus a few more, whenever they can. Everyone who sail, learn this, and not least junkies...

    Arne


    Yes, Arne, that is true  but there is fouling that can be prevented by good design and fouling that one can do nothing about. I doubt that many would argue that my leach batten ends are not flush. However even the small button head bolts can snag and I am now counter sinking the heads, so that they are entirely flush.
    2 files
  • 28 Aug 2024 09:47
    Reply # 13398734 on 13397809
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    The matter of keeping any running lines and batten ends from fouling each other could deserve its own topic.
    The short version here about Mehitabel is that I would take care to keep the batten ends flush with the leech of the foresail and also keep the them flush with the luff of the mainsail. Avoiding protruding details, in the rig and on deck, is essential.


    Running lines will catch anything possible plus a few more, whenever they can. Everyone who sail, learn this, and not least junkies...

    Arne


  • 28 Aug 2024 01:17
    Reply # 13398654 on 13398221
    TGO wrote:

    Arne just asked me, off-forum, about how I would sheet that foresail. I think you can use port and starboard sheeting to the leech, with the deck blocks either side of the forehatch (but I'd do a temporary fix of these, and experiment with the fore and aft position). These are a bit of a pain to use, as the lee side sheet doesn't run out easily, but needs must if there is no room  for a single central sheet. At least these double sheets will help to keep the sail quiet on a run.

    I wouldn't attach the sheet spans forward of the leech, this only gives trouble (PJR fig 4.53). I'd use the minimum number of parts in the sheet, as it's a small sail. I wonder whether 5 sheeted battens would be enough? It will help a lot to pull the tack of the mainsail right back to the mast, to reduce the tendency for the fore sheets to foul on it. 


    Fouling with the luff/tack of the main has not proved a problem on LCB which has very little clearance between the main and the foresail. The big issue is the sheetlets of the foresail fouling the leach and batten ends  of the foresail. This has occurred even when doing things as you describe. The only way to fully circumvent the problem is for the leach to fall away from the sheet as you move down the sail. Arne himself actually demonstrated that when he started cutting away the leach on the lowest panel in his sails.
  • 27 Aug 2024 12:37
    Reply # 13398221 on 13397809

    Arne just asked me, off-forum, about how I would sheet that foresail. I think you can use port and starboard sheeting to the leech, with the deck blocks either side of the forehatch (but I'd do a temporary fix of these, and experiment with the fore and aft position). These are a bit of a pain to use, as the lee side sheet doesn't run out easily, but needs must if there is no room  for a single central sheet. At least these double sheets will help to keep the sail quiet on a run.

    I wouldn't attach the sheet spans forward of the leech, this only gives trouble (PJR fig 4.53). I'd use the minimum number of parts in the sheet, as it's a small sail. I wonder whether 5 sheeted battens would be enough? It will help a lot to pull the tack of the mainsail right back to the mast, to reduce the tendency for the fore sheets to foul on it. 


  • 27 Aug 2024 01:08
    Reply # 13398097 on 13397832
    Asmat Downey wrote:
    Anonymous wrote:

    I was chatting to Arne Kverneland yesterday about the possibility of putting a junk schooner rig on Mehitabel.  My criteria were that the sail plan would have 50 sq m of sail, equal to the bermudan rig with 150% genoa flying, in order to maximize light-air performance, but the challenge I posed was that the mainmast had to be in the same position as the bermudan rig, due to structural issues.  It cannot be moved further aft.

    To my delight, Arne has come up with a brilliant sail plan.  With full sail hoisted, the CE is a bit behind the main mast position, which will be great in very light winds, giving a little weather helm.  With two panels reefed down, the CE moves back to the mast.  The mainsail will get the first panel reefed down in 12 knots of wind, the second in 15 knots.  At 18 knots, there will be three panels reefed down.  This progressively moves the CE forward, which is what these old IOR designs need.  They sail on their headsails.  In 25 knots, a fourth panel will be reefed and one panel of the foresail.  In 30 knots, there will be five panels of the main reefed and two of the foresail.

    No further reefs of the foresail are likely to be needed until the wind reaches 40 knots, as it is the storm sail and the mast and rig will be as stout as the main.  The main will continue to be progressively reefed until just the top two fanned panels are hoisted, and possibly the boat will sail to windward in extreme winds with just the reefed foresail, like many IOR boats.

    As soon as the wind shifts aft of the beam, the main will be squared right out, as I did on Arion.  The foresail will be sheeted in tighter, which means the CP will go way forward.  I once crossed the Coral Sea in a bermudan sloop with the main squared out and the jib sheeted flat, Slocum-style, self-steering all the way with our trusty Aries windvane.  As with Arion, the mainsail will be reefed earlier than going to windward due to its power off the wind.

    This rig looks very much like the one I made for Branwen. Her mainmast was forced  well forward of midships owing to the presence of her centreboard case. I came to be glad about it. Sailing downwind, that big mainsail provided the grunt, while the foresail played no part in propulsion at all, serving only as a steering sail, helping keep her head off. On a dead run, that little sail would snatch irritatingly from side to side, so I would generally  bring the wind about 20° over the quarter, sailing faster and rolling less. Repeated gybes were needed, but I'd arrive just as quickly and in greater comfort.
    Thanks for your positive feedback, Asmat.  It reinforces my opinion based on experiences with sailing with just the mainsail of bermudan sloops at times.  I did it on Ice Bird and Arion, and Eric and Susan Hiscock also did that at times with Wanderer III.  I agree with you that 'tacking' downwind is both more comfortable and just as fast.  In Cape Horn the Logical Route, Bernard Moitessier talks about doing this with Joshua, and even provides a graph to show that the extra distance sailed is offset by the increase in speed.  Anyway, it doesn't matter if you are faster or not, we're just cruising!
  • 26 Aug 2024 15:37
    Reply # 13397832 on 13397809
    Anonymous wrote:

    I was chatting to Arne Kverneland yesterday about the possibility of putting a junk schooner rig on Mehitabel.  My criteria were that the sail plan would have 50 sq m of sail, equal to the bermudan rig with 150% genoa flying, in order to maximize light-air performance, but the challenge I posed was that the mainmast had to be in the same position as the bermudan rig, due to structural issues.  It cannot be moved further aft.

    To my delight, Arne has come up with a brilliant sail plan.  With full sail hoisted, the CE is a bit behind the main mast position, which will be great in very light winds, giving a little weather helm.  With two panels reefed down, the CE moves back to the mast.  The mainsail will get the first panel reefed down in 12 knots of wind, the second in 15 knots.  At 18 knots, there will be three panels reefed down.  This progressively moves the CE forward, which is what these old IOR designs need.  They sail on their headsails.  In 25 knots, a fourth panel will be reefed and one panel of the foresail.  In 30 knots, there will be five panels of the main reefed and two of the foresail.

    No further reefs of the foresail are likely to be needed until the wind reaches 40 knots, as it is the storm sail and the mast and rig will be as stout as the main.  The main will continue to be progressively reefed until just the top two fanned panels are hoisted, and possibly the boat will sail to windward in extreme winds with just the reefed foresail, like many IOR boats.

    As soon as the wind shifts aft of the beam, the main will be squared right out, as I did on Arion.  The foresail will be sheeted in tighter, which means the CP will go way forward.  I once crossed the Coral Sea in a bermudan sloop with the main squared out and the jib sheeted flat, Slocum-style, self-steering all the way with our trusty Aries windvane.  As with Arion, the mainsail will be reefed earlier than going to windward due to its power off the wind.

    This rig looks very much like the one I made for Branwen. Her mainmast was forced  well forward of midships owing to the presence of her centreboard case. I came to be glad about it. Sailing downwind, that big mainsail provided the grunt, while the foresail played no part in propulsion at all, serving only as a steering sail, helping keep her head off. On a dead run, that little sail would snatch irritatingly from side to side, so I would generally  bring the wind about 20° over the quarter, sailing faster and rolling less. Repeated gybes were needed, but I'd arrive just as quickly and in greater comfort.
  • 26 Aug 2024 14:55
    Message # 13397809

    I was chatting to Arne Kverneland yesterday about the possibility of putting a junk schooner rig on Mehitabel.  My criteria were that the sail plan would have 50 sq m of sail, equal to the bermudan rig with 150% genoa flying, in order to maximize light-air performance, but the challenge I posed was that the mainmast had to be in the same position as the bermudan rig, due to structural issues.  It cannot be moved further aft.

    To my delight, Arne has come up with a brilliant sail plan.  With full sail hoisted, the CE is a bit behind the main mast position, which will be great in very light winds, giving a little weather helm.  With two panels reefed down, the CE moves back to the mast.  The mainsail will get the first panel reefed down in 12 knots of wind, the second in 15 knots.  At 18 knots, there will be three panels reefed down.  This progressively moves the CE forward, which is what these old IOR designs need.  They sail on their headsails.  In 25 knots, a fourth panel will be reefed and one panel of the foresail.  In 30 knots, there will be five panels of the main reefed and two of the foresail.

    No further reefs of the foresail are likely to be needed until the wind reaches 40 knots, as it is the storm sail and the mast and rig will be as stout as the main.  The main will continue to be progressively reefed until just the top two fanned panels are hoisted, and possibly the boat will sail to windward in extreme winds with just the reefed foresail, like many IOR boats.

    As soon as the wind shifts aft of the beam, the main will be squared right out, as I did on Arion.  The foresail will be sheeted in tighter, which means the CP will go way forward.  I once crossed the Coral Sea in a bermudan sloop with the main squared out and the jib sheeted flat, Slocum-style, self-steering all the way with our trusty Aries windvane.  As with Arion, the mainsail will be reefed earlier than going to windward due to its power off the wind.

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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