Mast materials and Specifications

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  • 31 May 2013 09:32
    Reply # 1306089 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    On 31/05/13 Paul Thompson wrote:

    Gary King wrote:
    Well, dont think anyone can talk in absolutes, only relatives. Steel (Chrome Molybdenum alloy - much stronger than mild steel) bike frames would crack just as much as aluminium, mainly because the walls were so thin to make them light enough. So steel has to be designed around too. Heavy alu frames would last forever.

    Gary, Chrome Molybdenum alloy is a very different animal from mild steel. We are talking about fatigue resistance here, not strength, they are very different things.

    A heavy aluminium walled mast (or tube) has better fatigue resistance because it is stiffer, not because it is stronger.
  • 31 May 2013 09:30
    Reply # 1306088 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    No problem Graham!  It's just taking me ages to transfer the thread - ipad issues with Wild apricot and my husband interrupting me every 5 minutes! I'm losing the will to live!!

    Just hold off from posting guys, whilst I fight with technology and transfer the remaining posts, then the floor is yours!
  • 31 May 2013 09:16
    Reply # 1306082 on 1306051
    Oops!  I didn't notice I was in  the wrong forum.  Put it down to 2 weeks on the hard and being tired and dirty.  I must confess to doing no mathematics with my mast specs.  I "designed" it the way our grandfathers did, empirically.  I looked at what others had done and went for the conservative end of the spectrum, as I have a heavy boat, am a bluewater sailor and am extremely cautious.  I come from a traditional voyaging school where one expects the boat, including rig, to be beyond doubt in all but extreme conditions.  I understand that the criteria for coastal cruising and racing may be different, as they will be for lighter boats. 

    I don't have any holes in my mast, except for the retaining bolt in the mast step and the rivets in the mastcap.  I have close to 2 metres bury so have about 8.5m above the partners.  The top 2 - 3 metres flex a little but there is no sign of any movement below that, although my wedges mutter darkly when Arion is hard-pressed.  I chose not to run any electrical or coax cables inside the mast to simplify things.  My VHF arial and nav lights are mounted on the rails.

    Until I pulled the stick out last week I was a bit nervous about possible corrosion under the cedar wedges, though I had greased the mast and partners heavily with lanolin.  I was pleased to see no problems there and have put the mast back with another thick coat of lanolin grease.  My wedges remain absolutely dry, as I have a black rubber boot called a Dektite, bought from a plumbing store (intended to seal pipes where they exit from roofs).  This boot is protected from UV degradation by a traditional canvas boot.  There's lots of lanolin under that too.

    It will be interesting to have a technical report on Lexia's dismasting.  Bad luck for Jonathon but an opportunity for the community to learn something.  Blondie Hasler was fond of saying that going to sea and breaking things was vital to learning what the gear could take.  There is only so much one can learn from engineer's tables.  Blondie would have been proud of the fact that Lexia lined up for the OSTAR, and even prouder that Jonathon got himself home as well.
  • 31 May 2013 08:49
    Reply # 1306080 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    On 31/05/13 Gary King wrote:

    Well, dont think anyone can talk in absolutes, only relatives. Steel (Chrome Molybdenum alloy - much stronger than mild steel) bike frames would crack just as much as aluminium, mainly because the walls were so thin to make them light enough. So steel has to be designed around too. Heavy alu frames would last forever..

    I happen to have a spreadsheet of tube strengths too, the 162dia/6mm wall tube is around 28% stronger than standard 150mm Dia/5mm tube. The most risk of course is the foremast, it gets thrown around the most in a pitching sea. Being shorter and carrying less sail helps.
  • 31 May 2013 08:45
    Reply # 1306079 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    On 31/05/13 Gary King wrote:

    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Just on a hunch I went and checked Gary's profile. I had assumed he was building a Badger but thats not the case. It's a stretched "Baby Badger". Gary did you just stretch her or did your add to the beam proportionately?


    Stretched 10%, no change in beam, beefed up chine log (3 laminations instead of 2) and beefier sheer clamp.
  • 31 May 2013 08:38
    Reply # 1306078 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    On 31/05/13 Paul Thompson wrote:

    Arne Kverneland wrote:
    PPS: By inserting Paul's suggested dimensions, 200mm diameter and 6mm walls and still hoping for a Sigma of 240MPa, the breaking moment seems to end on 4212kpm. This will probably be higher than the righting moment of the boat, at least
    .

    Just on a hunch I went and checked Gary's profile. I had assumed he was building a Badger but thats not the case. It's a stretched "Baby Badger". Gary did you just stretch her or did your add to the beam proportionately?

    So the 200mm is rather too conservative. 180mm would probably be a better match however I'm just guessing as I do not have all the data. I do still think 162mm is cutting it rather fine however I seem to recall that Gary did not have much choice in diameter versus wall thickness.

    What you do want to remember is that while righting moment is a good guide, the highest mast loadings are when running, not when beating as many assume. Hence the saying that the boat can handle more than the crew upwind but the crew more than the boat down wind. Then theres the stresses from knockdowns and (hopefully never happens) an inversion. The above being the case, I like to be very conservative in my calculations.
    Last modified: 31 May 2013 08:39 | Deleted user
  • 31 May 2013 08:31
    Reply # 1306072 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    On 30/05/13 Arne Kverneland wrote:

    Stavanger, Thursday

    Gary

    I am afraid it is not enough to hope and cross fingers. I’ve earlier done some strength calculations on wooden mast sections. Now that I am to install an aluminium-wood hybrid mast on my new boat, I have spent some time on cracking the strength code for aluminium tubes.

    My new mast is 100mm with 4mm walls and the 6082-T6 has a Sigma of 240MPa (240N/sqmm). By crunching these numbers I get a breaking moment (yield strength) of 681kpm. The maximum righting moment of the boat is 322kpm (plus maybe another 100 with people on board.), so I guess I am safe.

    When putting the mast dimensions of your Benford dory into the same formula and guessing on the same Sigma of 240MPa, I get a breaking/yield moment of 2706kpm. I don’t know the beam and displacement of your boat so have no idea of her righting moment.

    I am unsure of how strong the masts should be compared to the boats’ righting moment. Using 2 masts makes it even more interesting. Still I am pretty sure that the masts strength must be fairly closely related to the boat’s beam and displacement - and of course the intended kind of sailing one has in mind..

    Cheers, Arne

    PS: (I actually glued the upper and lower section of my mast together today)

    PPS: By inserting Paul's suggested dimensions, 200mm diameter and 6mm walls and still hoping for a Sigma of 240MPa, the breaking moment seems to end on 4212kpm. This will probably be higher than the righting moment of the boat, at least.
    Last modified: 31 May 2013 08:34 | Deleted user
  • 31 May 2013 08:22
    Reply # 1306066 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    On 30/05/13 Paul Thompson wrote:

    Gary's post is spot on regarding the problems with aluminium. As he points out, if you take care you can design around them but you do need to know that there are issues. You also need to know that all aluminium masts have a finite life span due to fatigue issues. An aluminium mast can only withstand a certain number of stress cycles (bending cycles) and then it work hardens to the point that it will crack and eventually fail. You can get around the issue by going over size as Graham has done but you then throw away some of the advantages of aluminium, namely weight reduction.

    I suspect the Needlespar masts use some type high tensile aluminium that enables them to use the skinny sections that there masts so often have. However doing so must inevitably lead to a shorter life as the mast will be more highly stressed.

    I used steel for La Chica's mast as it is a cost efficient (for me) and highly fatigue resistant material. The masts are hot dipped galvanized (that means galvanised inside and out) and epoxy coated so corrosion should not be a problem for a long time.

    I used PJR's formula to design the masts. I first obtained the section sizes for a hollow wooden section and then calculated the steel equivalent. The masts came out lighter than solid wood but of cause heavier than any of the other popular materials. However not much heavier. The main mast dressed and ready for installation was just under 200kg and the foremast 97kg, these being the weights reported by the crane operator when the masts were stepped.

    With regards to PJR's formula for mast diameters be aware that for medium to heavy boats it is pretty much correct but it does tend to give results on the heavy side for light boats. Arne has written quite a bit about this and if you go to his page, you'll find his writings on the subject (and much other useful information).


    La Chica's Mast Specs

    Main mast: Dia at partners: 235mm, Dia at masthead 100mm, LAP 11 500mm, bury 2 250mm, weight 200Kg, material is steel, wall thickness 3mm.

    Foremast: Dia at partners: 195mm, Dia at masthead 80mm, LAP 8 700mm, bury 1 500mm, weight 97Kg, material is steel, wall thickness 3mm.

    PS. Gary, your masts do sound light to me (I mean strength wise not weight) did you do the sums? I would have thought 200mm with a 6mm wall would be as light as one would want to go.
    Last modified: 31 May 2013 08:25 | Deleted user
  • 31 May 2013 07:53
    Reply # 1306062 on 1306051
    Deleted user
    On 30/05/13 Gary King wrote:

    Graham Cox wrote:
    .. I think it might be a mistake though to think that aluminium masts can be lighter or much smaller in section that wooden ones. My mast is only 10% smaller in section than PJR's recommended solid timber mast.


    Well alu is 4 or 5 time denser than, say, Douglas Fir, so its not going to be much lighter anyway. Yours definitely has lots of safety margin built in compared to mine which are 162m diameter and 6mm thickness but only 7.8m and 8.4m (fore & main) above deck. (They are composites, top portions are doug fir)

    What Paul wrote in the other thread about holes drilled into aluminium is on the money. I know from my days working with a bicycle manufacturer and observing failures of alu MTB frames, Alu is susceptible to stress fractures radiating from either weld points or holes (even holes drilled for bottle cages). So I could say alu is not suitable for bike frames but they solved the problem by oversizing the tubing, larger diameter but thinner walls to keep weight down. This way the flex is reduced so chance of fatigue was reduced too. Glued frames were no problem either, well the alu tubes didnt break, the glued joints might separate though... What I'm saying is, its all in the construction & any defects in material can be taken care of.

    Back to my skinnier masts, the way I figured it aluminium can stand a huge amount of abuse if there are no stress points introduced (holes & welds). So I resisted the temptation to drill holes to mount blocks on the foremast and opted for a wood pedestal on deck to direct halyard & control lines up from the foredeck. That would have meant holes close to the maximum bending force region at the partners, which is more a risk on mine than yours. Your 220mm dia mast probably doesn't flex at all so not an issue.

    So though 6 1/2 inches isnt a huge diameter, no holes and T6 treated should, fingers crossed, be enough.
    FWIW, my two composite masts, now finished, have top 1/3 and 1/2 made of doug fir, weigh 72kg and 82kg.
    Last modified: 31 May 2013 08:27 | Deleted user
  • 31 May 2013 07:29
    Message # 1306051
    Deleted user
    [Web team edit: this thread has been transferred from the JRA website forum.]

    On 30/05/13 Graham Cox wrote:

    Rather than go off topic on Lexia's OSTAR page, I thought I'd record a comment on a new thread. I I don't know anything about Needlespars masts, though I have noted that some alloy masts seem alarmingly slender. Arion's aluminium mast is 10.5m overall, with a dia at base of 200mm and is 110 at the truck. It is spun tapered with a wall thickness of 5mm from heel to truck, is not anodised and weights 200 kg. I don't know what grade alloy it is, another important consideration. It is not a marine section, being the bottom section of a very large flagpole. It was made in France. I did record the details of the manufacturer in an earlier post in 2011 but don't have the details available at the moment. Arion has not yet covered as many miles at sea as Lexia so we will see. My mast is similar to Tystie's in specs, which has stood up well. I think it might be a mistake though to think that aluminium masts can be lighter or much smaller in section that wooden ones. My mast is only 10% smaller in section than PJR's recommended solid timber mast.

    Last modified: 31 May 2013 08:26 | Deleted user
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