On 30/05/13 Gary King wrote:
Graham Cox wrote:
.. I think it might be a mistake though to think that aluminium masts can be lighter or much smaller in section that wooden ones. My mast is only 10% smaller in section than PJR's recommended solid timber mast.
Well alu is 4 or 5 time denser than, say, Douglas Fir, so its not going to be much lighter anyway. Yours definitely has lots of safety margin built in compared to mine which are 162m diameter and 6mm thickness but only 7.8m and 8.4m (fore & main) above deck. (They are composites, top portions are doug fir)
What Paul wrote in the other thread about holes drilled into aluminium is on the money. I know from my days working with a bicycle manufacturer and observing failures of alu MTB frames, Alu is susceptible to stress fractures radiating from either weld points or holes (even holes drilled for bottle cages). So I could say alu is not suitable for bike frames but they solved the problem by oversizing the tubing, larger diameter but thinner walls to keep weight down. This way the flex is reduced so chance of fatigue was reduced too. Glued frames were no problem either, well the alu tubes didnt break, the glued joints might separate though... What I'm saying is, its all in the construction & any defects in material can be taken care of.
Back to my skinnier masts, the way I figured it aluminium can stand a huge amount of abuse if there are no stress points introduced (holes & welds). So I resisted the temptation to drill holes to mount blocks on the foremast and opted for a wood pedestal on deck to direct halyard & control lines up from the foredeck. That would have meant holes close to the maximum bending force region at the partners, which is more a risk on mine than yours. Your 220mm dia mast probably doesn't flex at all so not an issue.
So though 6 1/2 inches isnt a huge diameter, no holes and T6 treated should, fingers crossed, be enough.
FWIW, my two composite masts, now finished, have top 1/3 and 1/2 made of doug fir, weigh 72kg and 82kg.