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DIY Stanchions

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  • 08 Jun 2013 00:03
    Quote
    Reply # 1312074 on 1264310
    Deleted user
    Kurt Jon Ulmer wrote:
    On mehitabel, stanchions and lifelines made no sense, so she has none anymore. The only places where work ever has to be done between the cockpit and the bow pulpit, are on the trunk cabin and pilothouse top, well above the top wire.

    I'm not suggesting that everyone rip out their stanchions, but that everyone should take a look at what security they actually offer. Going forward on our boat, we feel safe harnessed up, clipped to the inboard jacklines, and holding on.

    Cheers,
    Kurt

    I agree with this approach. 

    Our first boat "Sheila", a beautiful 6m Herreschoff, never had guard rails which was a good thing because they would have disfigured her. Our second, "China Girl", was a 23' Newbridge Virgo Voyager (still coming up second in a Google search for "China Girl junk" I'm pleased to see). She had very narrow decks alongside the coach roof which, with the toe rails, were too narrow for the width of my foot. On her I felt that the low guard rails were more of a trip hazard than a safety feature and certainly wouldn't stop me if I fell so I took them off and fitted lifelines instead. "Ivory Gull" has comfortable, safe and roomy decks and hand rails at a convenient height so although she has perhaps the least need for guard rails of all our boats she has the most room for them. And if there's room for them then guard rails do offer some positive advantage, if only because they are a convenient place to hang the fenders.

    A more important safety feature is that hand that you keep for yourself while the other is occupied with the boat. I certainly wouldn't advocate leaving it behind in the lay apart store.
    Last modified: 08 Jun 2013 00:11 | Deleted user
  • 07 Jun 2013 20:14
    Quote
    Reply # 1311935 on 1258449
    Anonymous member
    I am intending to fit rope guard rails and can get new stanchions made to fit the existing bases.  The line I have is Liros 16 plait and is 8mm, which is the smallest size my supplier had.  I am keen to have a reasonably neat end product, so bulky knots and trailing ends of spare rope are to be avoided, I hope.  What concerns me is the method of attachment at each end - if I splice an eye at each end the lines will not be able to be withdrawn through the stanchions.  I could have a spliced eye at the stern to allow tensioning using lashings of smaller string, and use a scaffold knot at the bows to allow removal, although this will become hard to undo after being under load.  I am also unsure about the detail of attachments to pelican hooks, etc. at the gate (starboard side only).  Any advice on these would be greatly appreciated, preferably with photos of details as mentioned above.
  • 09 Apr 2013 19:50
    Quote
    Reply # 1264310 on 1258449
    Anonymous member
    On mehitabel, stanchions and lifelines made no sense, so she has none anymore. The only places where work ever has to be done between the cockpit and the bow pulpit, are on the trunk cabin and pilothouse top, well above the top wire.

    I'm not suggesting that everyone rip out their stanchions, but that everyone should take a look at what security they actually offer. Going forward on our boat, we feel safe harnessed up, clipped to the inboard jacklines, and holding on.

    Cheers,
    Kurt

  • 05 Apr 2013 17:29
    Quote
    Reply # 1260760 on 1260349
    Deleted user
    Gary King wrote:
    Daniel Collins wrote:I use Spectra (aka Dyneema aka SK75 aka UHMWPE) for my lifelines, and have made my own stanchions as well.

    What size Spectra did you use Daniel?

    I use a cordless drill on the tube, the secret is to use a cutting compound. Any lube will do, a spray can of Inox (WD40 substitute) in my case. Works wonders.

    I believe it's 5 or 6 mm.  I used simple eyes at the forward end, looped through the pulpit, and deadeyes+lashings at the aft end to tension.  Pelican hooks allow me to retain the use of the gates and to de-tension the lines for boarding the dinghy, as Annie mentioned.

    I won't go back to steel ever.
  • 05 Apr 2013 07:58
    Quote
    Reply # 1260382 on 1258449
    Anonymous member
    If I have lifelines/guard rails, I do expect them to keep me on board: otherwise, they are a snare and a delusion.

    We had (Marlow) rope ones on Badger: 8 mm above, 6 mm [sorry, that should have read 4mm] below.  They were splendid.  I put some polythene tubing though the hole in the upper (important) ones and we never had any chafe.  If the hole isn't quite large enough, I suggest putting on a whipping where the rope passes through the stanchion.  It may not solve the chafe issue, but at least you will see it happening and be able to replace the whipping before the rope starts chafing.

    I intend to replace Fantail's stainless steel wire with rope.  I bought some (relatively) inexpensive pelican hooks to tension it, because to get my dinghy on board, I drop the guardrails and pull her over the rail.
    Last modified: 10 Apr 2013 00:56 | Anonymous member
  • 05 Apr 2013 04:56
    Quote
    Reply # 1260349 on 1260330
    Deleted user
    Daniel Collins wrote:I use Spectra (aka Dyneema aka SK75 aka UHMWPE) for my lifelines, and have made my own stanchions as well.

    What size Spectra did you use Daniel?

    I use a cordless drill on the tube, the secret is to use a cutting compound. Any lube will do, a spray can of Inox (WD40 substitute) in my case. Works wonders.
    Last modified: 05 Apr 2013 05:00 | Deleted user
  • 05 Apr 2013 04:23
    Quote
    Reply # 1260330 on 1258449
    Deleted user
    I use Spectra (aka Dyneema aka SK75 aka UHMWPE) for my lifelines, and have made my own stanchions as well.

    I drilled them with a standard drill press and/or hand drill (which can be a ROYAL pain...) and then filed the edges with a dremel or equivalent and a grinding burr then a polishing burr.  So far I have had zero problems and no visible chafe and that's after about 3000 sea miles and 4 years of use and abuse around the docks.

    I do prefer using pre-made pipe caps for the top end, but that's mostly for looks.  The middle hole is where the drilling/polishing comes in.

    For what it's worth.
  • 04 Apr 2013 21:35
    Quote
    Reply # 1260067 on 1258989
    Anonymous member
    Gary King wrote:
    Gary Pick wrote:For your stanchion bases you are using the rectangular ones and not the triangular ones aren't you? I bought the triangular bases to cut costs and there are a bit flimsy.
    Yep, triangles..  they are a bit flimsy, had them on our last boat, but when all the lifelines are rigged that keeps them in one piece. Dont expect lifelines to actually keep you on board do you?

    LOL. No, Kerry insisted we have them. It's more the psychological effect of having something between you and the water.
  • 04 Apr 2013 02:19
    Quote
    Reply # 1259051 on 1258449
    Deleted user
    My stanchions are square aluminum tubing bolted to the side of the cabin and bulwarks instead of the deck with four side plates and matching backing plates on the interior. Very strong connection and leverage does not work them at all. Loops are welded to the outside and top of the tube to give two lines. We used poly rope for a couple of years then changed that out to braided for increased strength. Working well so far. There is a good picture in my photos with details.
    Last modified: 04 Apr 2013 02:21 | Deleted user
  • 04 Apr 2013 00:41
    Quote
    Reply # 1258989 on 1258834
    Deleted user
    Gary Pick wrote:For your stanchion bases you are using the rectangular ones and not the triangular ones aren't you? I bought the triangular bases to cut costs and there are a bit flimsy.
    Yep, triangles..  they are a bit flimsy, had them on our last boat, but when all the lifelines are rigged that keeps them in one piece. Dont expect lifelines to actually keep you on board do you?
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