Part 4
The hull (bottom and bow) is plywood planked in four pieces, two each side of the strong-back. This is unconventional, but easy to do, and being curved, its strong and rigid when finished.
Some fairing/bevelling of the cleats, near the forefoot and “stem” – and on the fore part of the chines, is now done with a chisel and plane. A straight-edge between stem and chines is used for a guide (see straight lines drawn on photograph below.) This is the only bevelling or even slightly challenging joinery in the build.
Explanation: this wrapped-around surface, which is marked with straight lines, is part of a cone. (In a larger vessel this section could be cross-planked with planks which are tapered and not bent at all). The rest is flat. (at the bow) or a simple roll (aft).
Laying the plywood over this simple shape is hard to explain but believe me, its easy to do.
![](/resources/MemberAlbums/38026503/JRA%20Design%20Competition/preview/entry%207.jpg)
However, that bow/bottom panel is not straight forward to loft. These days people seem to do it with computer software. Otherwise, a cardboard mock-up of the bow/bottom piece may be cut and fitted, to ascertain the correct shape The ply is now cut, glued and fastened to the bevelled cleats. (If the ply is difficult to wrap around the curve, the surface can be score-cut with a sharp knife, through the outer layer of the plywood, along the lines shown in the above photograph. These cuts should be on the outside of the hull, they will open somewhat when the ply bends, and can be filled with thickened epoxy later.)
The more simple, rectangular aft bottoms are cut and fitted, its a simple and easy roll and no bevels are required here. The two bow/bottom and aft/bottom panel pairs are joined with a simple butt strap join, from plywood offcuts.
After the bottom/bow is completed, the chines can be dressed with epoxy and fibre-glass bandage, the outside of the hull painted and the hull turned right way up.
The outside part of the off-centreboard case needs its own panel, so a compete case is fastened to the vertical side on the inside of the hull. The slot for the off-centreboard is now cut.
Now the sheer line can be cut, further timber strips placed where necessary: gunnels, belting, thwarts, breast hook or fore-deck, lands for buoyancy tanks etc.
The off-centreboard can be permanently installed, with a hardwood pin glued in, so it can't leak, and provision made for a “push rod" for raising and lowering the board, before the case is capped. A swing up rudder must be made and fitted with suitable hinge detail: gudgeons or Wharram-type lashing.
If the hull is over-length, 100mm can be trimmed off the bow with a vertical cut, and a simple transom fitted in this place, as shown here. Buoyancy tanks may be fitted if desired, joinery will be simple and mostly square.
Finally the rig – I think the sail plan designed by Arne is the obvious choice – and as this design competition is, in my opinion, all about finding a suitable, simple junk rig (not the hull, of which there are plenty of choices and which is therefore a mere detail) I believe Arne should be declared the winner of the competition.
This is just a frivolous entry. I don't think I am going to build it though I have had discussions about the idea with Marcus, from time to time - it would go well in davits, with Havoc. Marcus thinks he might eventually build a bigger one as a load-carrying tender for Havoc - its length would match Havoc's beam (which is of course, being a NZscow, is the width of the transom)- bigger than would fit within the parameters of the dinghy design competition.