Another way of assembling sail panels and pockets - like Arne's method, this can be done in a small room, but with a much better result.

I have read variations of this proverb, many times:

If it looks good, it is good.

This was often said in connection with the Spitfire WW2 fighter, in contrast to the more angular Hurricane. However, the sweet lines of the Spit came at a price: It was terribly difficult to mass-produce, much unlike the Hurricane.

I guess I am in the Hurricane league (with an uprated engine, please). Simplicity of construction and servicing is important to me, as well as performance.

Back to junk sails:
It appears that David Tyler and I disagree about two main points; the planform and the way the batten panels should be sewn together.

I simply think my version of the H-M planform, with its 3-panel top section, is great. It gives the longest luff length for a given mast height, and it reefs well. I have no structural problems with it, and will stick to it.

As for my preferred way of sewing the panels to each other (Amateur Method B, see Chapter 5), I have mostly argued for it because it is so simple to make, but there is more to it than that:

·         This method does away with the need for a big space for sewing it. If the sail were to be put together the ‘proper’, sailmaker’s way, one would need at least one batten length table (or floor) space on each side of the sewing machine. In practice, this means that many people would have to move outside or rent/borrow a bigger place for the job.

·         The Amateur Method B hides the panel joining seam from sunlight and chafe, so this will not fail, as long as a proper boltrope is fitted around the sail.

·         If a batten pocket is to be replaced for some reason, this can be done by simply ripping the single (zigzag) batten pocket seam, and a new pocket can be fitted. This can again be done without having to roll up half the sail to let it pass under the arm of the sewing machine: Only the new batten pocket is passed under the sewing machine.

Simple to make, simple to maintain, simple as that.
However, that would not have been good enough, even for me, if the Amateur Method B had resulted in a weak sail or a sail that didn’t perform. My experience is that the sail keeps together very well  -  and performance-wise I and Ingeborg touch our forelock to no one.

It is a fact, though, that the sail may look bad along the battens, at times. It is worst when spotting the sail in light winds, when on the port tack, and looking on its port side (photo below, left). It is the way it is. It doesn’t do any harm to the all-important cambered panels, but it may make some eyes sore. If that look is unbearable to a wannabe amateur sailmaker, then he or she should consider switching to some sailmaker’s method instead. Maybe I should put a warning about it in Chapter 5?

Conclusion:
I stand by my claim that my sails are good, since they both perform well and last well  -  even if some details look very untidy, at times.

Arne

(Photo 3 in photo section 5 in my member's album)

David,

well, that was quite a broadside. I guess you and I disagree on what is good and what is not good when it comes to junksails.

First the yard:
A longer yard, as Hasler and McLeod landed on, and which I basically use, can easily be made strong enough, it is a simple question of engineering. The funny thing is that the top three panels hold up very well, both with full sail set, and when deeply reefed. I have indeed very few structural problems in my last few rigs. Besides, the top section has proved to be so effective that I refuse to trade it away for a flatter, shorter yard.

Now, there are a number of people who has built sails to my designs. Some of them have even assembled them using my methods.

If they return here with reports that they have run into trouble, performance-wise, handling-wise or with respect to structural problems, because of my advices, then I may have to reconsider my work.

I will anyway keep on sailing my own Ingeborg as she is, because she performs so well, and is so fun to sail.

Arne

After the 2018 Tallship event

In recent years I have from time to time been told that my way of making sails is not so good, last time now in the  Ardinamir micro-junket  posting today.

Until recently, I had almost bought the idea that my sails are second-best  -  that is, until a sail I had a couple of weeks ago. My experience from that trip triggered me to produce this write-up. I have sent it for proof-reading and comments to Slieve McGalliard, but he is on holiday, so in the meantime I let you have the draft.

NOTE: If I were a salesman, making sails for a living, or if I were a JR-missionary, I too would be keen to please the eyes of the spectators. However, I am neither of these and my priorities are therefore:

1.      Maximum ease of designing and making. I am strictly a DIY-er

2.      Maximum speed and handling performance for minimum cost in money or labour.

3.      Longivity

‘Pleasing to the eye’ is not even on my list. Junkrigs will always look weird to eyes calibrated to like Bermuda rigs. Junkrigs is a sort of acquired taste.

Much as I defend other peoples’ right to express different views than mine, I defend my own right to do things my way. I do not buy armchair wisdom.

Arne

Arne Kverneland wrote:

A  ribbon type, DIY-friendly wind indicator 

Yesterday I test-sailed a new wind-indicator I made. It was so good that I produced a little photo write-up on it  -  you know me…

I have sent it for proof-reading, so in a few days I will upload a better version. That one will anyway be found under this link.

Arne

Edit at 20180521: The hopefully final version has now been up-loaded.

Arne, a wee improvement to your great idea: instead of using ribbon, which has a limited life expectancy, I recommend using a strip of mesh, such as is used for making pockets in bathing trunks and sports clothes.  I always put a length of this on the fly of my burgees (colour co-ordinated, of course) and it stops them flogging themselves to bits.  You can easily buy some from a shop that sells dress fabric.  In fact, you need so little that they will probably give it to you!

A super-simple, more temporary wind indicator, hoisted like a burgee, can be made with a length of bamboo, a screw, two washers and a length of mesh, which has a hole burnt into one end with a soldering iron.  Put washer on screw; poke screw though hole in mesh; put second washer on screw; fasten screw into the end of the bamboo.  Raise wind indicator using spare halyard block (you only need about 4mm rope), with a clove hitch about 40% of the way up the bamboo and a second one near the bottom.  The knuckles of the bamboo provide extra security.  Because the mesh flies horizontally rather than vertically it seems to be much less inclined to snag on things.