Split Junk, Cambered panel or hinged batten sail. Which to choose?

  • 15 Nov 2011 10:26
    Reply # 750378 on 746824
    Deleted user
    I don't think that the performance (of my wingsail) is very much better than the big single sail, fanned and cambered, that I was using before. The chief reason for changing was that I didn't feel the big single sail was entirely suitable for ocean cruising, though it was enjoyable to use for coastal cruising.

    David, you made this comment in an earlier posting and as I have a big single sail, fanned and cambered in the lower panels which you very kindly made for me several years ago for my boat Malliemac, I wondered if you could clarify your comment that this type of sail is not entirely suitable for ocean cruising. I can understand that this sail may not be suitable for southern ocean sailing but apart from that why do you express concerns about its suitability for cruising other oceans of the world. I am hoping to sail at least the Atlantic in due course and maybe venture into the Pacific if time and health permits. I would be helpful to know what aspects need careful attention.
    Last modified: 15 Nov 2011 10:27 | Deleted user
  • 15 Nov 2011 09:54
    Reply # 750368 on 746824
    Deleted user
    David,
    I was intending to make our sails with a horizontal cut, each panel is one sheet, cut like the Tom Thumb drawing you have, somewhere (I've downloaded it anyway), since the Odyssey I've ordered comes wide enough. But I noticed all the shelf footed sails you've been designing have been vertically cut.
    Seems like a lot more sewing for an amatuer sailmaker, is it necessary?
    Last modified: 15 Nov 2011 09:57 | Deleted user
  • 14 Nov 2011 23:21
    Reply # 750005 on 746824

    Hi Edward

    Every rig demands a number of compromises for a number of reasons, be they practical, financial or whatever. I feel it is better to initially work without compromises and only bring them in at a late stage in the process. I fully understand the desire to use the Bermudan mast position, but the thought of setting that parameter first could make life very difficult. An artist cannot make strong flowing brush strokes with his hands tied. Experience to date shows that 33.3% sail area in front of the mast is stable when the gap between the jib and the mast is small. Until someone builds a rig with more then we won’t know, and it could be an expensive gamble to step much beyond this figure. When I started drawing split rigs I was aware that thick aerofoils/ hydrofoils tend to balance at 24 to 25% chord, so to advance to 30% for Poppy was a big step of faith. Since then Roger Stollery has convinced me that 33% area is fine in the model world but has advised against going beyond that. Apparently the sheet loads drop off very quickly as this figure is approached. I still advocate, design the rig with the mast position and slide the drawing over the hull drawing to find the mast position. If I had time I would take the drawing of Poppy’s rig and calculate the 33% area line with a narrow split and draw the mast centre line at the luff of the main panels. Then align the centre of area over the centre of area of the Bermudan rig on a hull diagram to the same scale and then you’ll know where the mast will go.

    Remember that the large Genoas and aft mast positions on some Bermudan designs were an attempt to beat the handicap system rather than an attempt to build a good fast practical boat. They didn’t always work.

    It is a fascinating problem.

    Cheers, Slieve.

    Last modified: 20 Feb 2014 05:09 | Anonymous member
  • 14 Nov 2011 22:22
    Reply # 749962 on 746824
    Deleted user
    I have been following this topic with great interest as I believe it is possible to put a competitive junk rig on the right hull, have a lot of fun and  generate dome interesting publicity for the Junk rig.
    Please correct me if I am wrong but does the split junk rig concept allow the mast to be kept in the original 'Bermudan' position, and adjust the balance of the sail itself to achieve the desired balance in the boat.
    Slieve, you have said that you feel the 'jiblets' are doing the majority of the work and help considerably with the power of your rig.  Would the rig become unstable if the balance went up to as much as 35%, or even 40% forward of the mast?
  • 14 Nov 2011 21:02
    Reply # 749887 on 746824

    Unfortunately David did not get a sail in Poppy last autumn when he was in the UK so he has no live experience of the advantages or disadvantages of the Split Rig. Please don't condem any rig on hearsay. David's comments are based on my reports of the early mark 1 rig. Things have moved on, all be it slowly. I would never push anyone in any particular direction, but I feel it is misleading to stress something that may not be justified. I'm now happy that the earlier percieved weaknesses in the rig have been sorted to the stage that I am happy to continue with a write up on it and offer it for public consumption.

    Cheers,  Slieve.

  • 14 Nov 2011 19:52
    Reply # 749810 on 749075
    Deleted user
    Barry & Meps / Stellrecht & Schulte wrote:
    Rodney Whitworth wrote:

    Hello,

    You seem to be suggesting I put a split junk sail on my foremast and a non spilt one on my mizzen(aft) mast. As david Tyler has suggested  the problem is going to be the distance between the two masts forcing one into a high aspect ratio sail. It is becoming quite an interesting combination of compromises!

    I'm suggesting that it is worth consideration, but I'm hedging my bets a little.

    I do agree that two-masted boats like these pretty much force fairly high aspect ratio sails.

    I cannot see a reason to put a split junk sail on any mast except the front one, so that part of the recommendation is firm too.

    Until I do some sailing on my rig, I'll hold back from giving too strong a recommendation for the split rig in a two-masted boat. 

    Barry


    Now that David Tyler has listed some of the disadvantages of the split junk(flappy jiblets) I think I am going to go in Jonathan Snodgrass's direction for my first effort into JR and try to keep it simple. I will watch carefully for your postings after you have got to sea with your new canvas. Best of luck!

    Rodney W

     

  • 13 Nov 2011 23:48
    Reply # 749075 on 748635
    Deleted user
    Rodney Whitworth wrote:

    Hello,

    You seem to be suggesting I put a split junk sail on my foremast and a non spilt one on my mizzen(aft) mast. As david Tyler has suggested  the problem is going to be the distance between the two masts forcing one into a high aspect ratio sail. It is becoming quite an interesting combination of compromises!

    I'm suggesting that it is worth consideration, but I'm hedging my bets a little.

    I do agree that two-masted boats like these pretty much force fairly high aspect ratio sails.

    I cannot see a reason to put a split junk sail on any mast except the front one, so that part of the recommendation is firm too.

    Until I do some sailing on my rig, I'll hold back from giving too strong a recommendation for the split rig in a two-masted boat. 

    Barry
  • 13 Nov 2011 00:29
    Reply # 748635 on 747847
    Deleted user
    Barry & Meps / Stellrecht & Schulte wrote:Rodney,

    Flutterby is a Freedom 33 (in the US aka 35 in the UK/Europe), and I expect to have the sails I designed for her up in a few weeks, and be able to report more about them.

    I sewed cambered sails, but did make my main sail more like Slieve's split rig. I believe there are reasons to use one on my forward-most sail:
    1. Slieve believes that having a "jib" like sail which has a clean leading edge out fully in front of the mast has aerodynamic benefits.
    2. When making cambered sails, either sewn or hinged battens, there are practical disadvantages to putting more than ~5% balance forward of the mast. When I drew up a rig using my existing masts, more balance on the main (~15%) seemed like a good idea to make the overall sailplan balance the boat better. A split sail behaves well with at least this much balance.
    The first point would apply to any multi-masted rig. The second is specific to the Freedom 33. The main/mizzen balance and underbody are different enough between the other Freedom cat ketches that I won't speak to them. 

    Some Freedom 33's also have a "tall rig" with a bigger main mast than mine, and that would change things too....although several junk sailors feel that Freedom made cat ketch masts which are taller than is needed for a properly sized junk rig. I designed mine use pretty much the full hoist of the masts, giving me pretty generous sail area.

    Look for much better answers as to how my ideas worked out after some test sailing.

    Barry


    Hello,

    You seem to be suggesting I put a split junk sail on my foremast and a non spilt one on my mizzen(aft) mast. As david Tyler has suggested  the problem is going to be the distance between the two masts forcing one into a high aspect ratio sail. It is becoming quite an interesting combination of compromises!

  • 12 Nov 2011 23:50
    Reply # 748627 on 746824

    Hi guys

    I’ve been following this thread with a bit of concern as I feel a number of the points being made are not necessarily accurate. I am currently continuing the write up on the split junk rig, and am trying to put detailed information of a wide range of subjects into it.

     

    The more I learn the more I realise that there is a lot of information and ideas that should be put into print, but unfortunately there are only a few hours in the day to devote to boats. For example the shelf foot sail as being offered commercially has excess material in it and will never look good in light conditions if built with a reasonable amount of camber. Unfortunately Chris Scanes did not listen to the detail when I told him how I developed the idea and used it in the jibs for Poppy. Shelf foot is not necessarily the easiest way to build a cambered rig, but it is the easiest to understand. In the split rig write up I plan to expand on these points and plan to cover building information on a range of methods. I also plan to expand on the available information on achieving efficient camber shapes. I suggested the arc of a circle forward and straight line aft shape to a couple of enquirers over two years ago but don’t know how they worked out. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to give more detail and suggested it as a close approximation.

     

    I find the idea of having a mobile sewing machine and stationary material quite scary. How would you sew a straight line and then sew a curved line? I wrote an article in one of the Newsletters on making sails at home and have added information to it in the SJ write up. It was easy enough to build a big sail in the garden room working on the carpeted floor without any outside help. There was no problem having a stationary machine and steering a double rolled sail with one hand while the other pressed the foot pedal. Big sails are built of numerous small panels. It’s the finishing off that takes time, but most of that is round the edges which are easier to work at.

     

    Incidentally, I am happy with the way to draw up the jib shapes now for the SJ, and to reinforce them against flogging. They are much better than Bermudan headsails when it comes to flogging. These were the points that discouraged me from doing the write up on the rig earlier, but now I feel I have acceptable answers.

     

    Once again it's bed time,

    Good night,  Slieve

     

    Last modified: 12 Nov 2011 23:52 | Anonymous member
  • 12 Nov 2011 21:23
    Reply # 748549 on 748519
    David Tyler wrote:
    Jonathan Snodgrass wrote:Could I please ask David:  After years with junk rigged boats your latest modification of Tystie was to a wing sail yawl.  However, it is not something that I have seen you recommend to anyone else.  In the case of Rodney, you perhaps haven't considered it as an option because he specifically asked for advice about junk rig sails.  However, he did include ocean robustness as one of his factors for consideration.  Would you care to comment?  jds
    I do think that my wingsail ketch rig gives better performance, and more driving force for a heavy boat,  than I could have got with a more conventional junk rig in ketch format - the only two masted option open to me. I don't think that the performance is very much better than the big single sail, fanned and cambered, that I was using before. The chief reason for changing was that I didn't feel the big single sail was entirely suitable for ocean cruising, though it was enjoyable to use for coastal cruising.
    Having said that, it is difficult to put a two-masted rig on to a boat of less than 30ft, and starting from scratch with a boat of 28ft, I would undoubtedly build a single sail similar to Fantail's.

      I hesitate to recommend the wingsail to others for several reasons:

    1. It requires rather more engineering skill than does junk rig, to make up the wishbone battens. I would like to be able to assure myself by direct contact that anyone taking on the job has a suitable workshop and sufficient levels of skill. I used Paul Thompson's workshop to make my latest set of battens, and I had the opportunity to see Paul at work; I know that he can do the job, and can complete the wingsail rig for La Chica.

    2. What I call the "80:20 rule" applies: it takes 20 units of effort to get 80% of the available performance; it takes another 80 units of effort to get the remaining 20% of available performance. Or call it cost/benefit analysis if you like. Either way, I feel that most people will get the most bangs for their buck by making one of the single-skinned junk rig variants. Leave the wingsails to we techies who just have to keep on designing and building things, because that's what keeps us amused and out of more serious mischief.

    3. I'm still struggling with ensuring the longevity of some of the batten components. I can't yet give out a recipe for a wingsail such that I can guarantee long term reliability.
     I broke several components during the Tasman Sea crossing (they were some of the original plastic parts that had become UV-degraded), and any such breakages are harder to deal with, being inside the sail.

    4. The sail is simple to make, but is 1 1/2 or 2 times the area of a single-skinned sail. More work, more weight, more expense.

    I'm still happy to talk to anyone who wants to build a wingsail - but they've got to want to build a wingsail, for the engineering challenge of it. There are other, simpler, less expensive ways to get a good rig.

    Thank you.  Horses for Courses.  Simple rigs for simple people.  That's me!  jds
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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