Pondering Seablossom's rig

  • 17 Dec 2012 19:56
    Reply # 1161832 on 726309
    Hi Jeff, it's really great that you are able to work again. I was worried that things may have come to a sad and premature end. So I hope that next summer it will be launch day for you and Seablossom.

    Annie's comments about encapsulation are spot on and the way to go. Also, remember, if it's too hot, you can start on the sail (if you have not already) as I assume your home is well shaded/air conditioned. As always, feel free to contact me if theres anything I can help with.
  • 17 Dec 2012 18:41
    Reply # 1161779 on 726309
    Good on you, Jeff.  Great to fix a bodged job - you do feel better for it.

    If you encapsulate your beams in WEST system epoxy, you should have no problems with rot.  Or Everdur, which is easier to mix without pumps.

    Great that you are recovered sufficiently to get back to work on the boat.  Though no doubt it will soon be too cold ;-]
  • 17 Dec 2012 17:56
    Reply # 1161729 on 726309
    Deleted user
    Not even a year has gone by and here I am again. :-/ Shortly after the last post I was found to be ill, and it has taken most of the time since, but I appear to be largely functional again. Adding to that, most of our summer stayed above 100 F. (38 C) and I'm kind of a wuss when it comes to working in that kind of heat, especially belowdecks. During the interim, I bought a custom extrusion from a flagpole manufacturer. It is 41 feet long, 1/4 inch wall, 6063-T6 aluminum. The lower 8'6" is 10" OD untapered, and from there it tapers to 6" OD. This will be my mast. Last week I cut a hole in the foredeck for partners per Paul's design (Thank you so much, Paul). I've been paralyzed for weeks trying to decide how big a hole to cut, and finally settled in 12", one foot. This will leave, as roughed in at least, an inch (about 2.5 cm) all the way around, which is quite a bit of space, but I intend to reinforce the deck all the way around the hole wiith a few layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy. The deck as made is FRP with an end-grain balsa core, so I think it needs some beefing up. I've made two crossbeams out of common.US 2x4 lumber, maybe Douglas fir or some similar white softwood. It's not durable in water so I hope I can keep them dry. After I put the crossbeams in I will put one running forward. Seablossom has a very stout Samson post made of 2 of some sort of durable 2x4 that is rooted at the forefoot and runs up through the deck; I will brace the partner beams against that. I had to cut some more out of her interior to provide space for the crossbeams. Another cabinet. OK, locker. :-) I haven't made a lot of progress on the diesel either. I paid somebody to look at it last summer - some of you may remember - and they ran new wiring from the alternator, key switch, and starter. And boy did they do a crummy job. As I looked in through the engine room hatch the wire sagged down from the deck above, all the way through my work space, hung down into the bilge about a foot, then wound its sloppy way over to the side of the compartment and finally vanished back into the jumble. As a sign of my lack of proper commitment to the boat and this project, I've been working around this messy obstacle, all the while muttering imprecations at the slob who charged me $300.00 US for this hassle. Finally this week I admitted to myself that he wasn't going to come fix it, and I could either live with it forever or fix it myself. So I fixed it, and am feeling.considerably better for the job. So that's the tale so far.
  • 18 Jan 2012 08:10
    Reply # 801530 on 801082
    Jeff McFadden wrote: - 'course, it's been said that I was a bit  of a rake in my younger years, anyway!
    And why am I not surprised by this comment?  Even the grey hairs and the dark glasses don't hide a wicked twinkle in the eyes!!
  • 17 Jan 2012 19:29
    Reply # 801082 on 801052
    Jeff McFadden wrote:
    Annie Hill wrote:
    Jeff McFadden wrote: I can drop a plumb bob down through the center of it and center the mast step under it.


    Ah but, honey chile, if you have a rake to the mast, as IMHO you should, the plumb bob plumb don't work.

    Sure it does, darlin'.  It gives me a place to measure from. ;-)  That's a good point about a bit of rake, though - 'course, it's been said that I was a bit  of a rake in my younger years, anyway!
    Even the two degrees of forward rake that I have is worthwhile (though it's not as rakish as Annie's six degrees). That's an easy one to lay out – five feet down the plumb line, and then two inches aft, is very close to two degrees.
  • 17 Jan 2012 18:59
    Reply # 801052 on 800788
    Deleted user
    Annie Hill wrote:
    Jeff McFadden wrote: I can drop a plumb bob down through the center of it and center the mast step under it.


    Ah but, honey chile, if you have a rake to the mast, as IMHO you should, the plumb bob plumb don't work.

    Sure it does, darlin'.  It gives me a place to measure from. ;-)  That's a good point about a bit of rake, though - 'course, it's been said that I was a bit  of a rake in my younger years, anyway!
  • 17 Jan 2012 15:19
    Reply # 800919 on 800706
    Deleted user
    Paul Thompson wrote:Jeff, the Fein is as you say a truly marvellous tool I also have an original. Use the Bosch blades when you can. They fit and are considerably cheaper.

    I couldn't find a lower cost blade that fit.  Thanks for the hint!
  • 17 Jan 2012 14:53
    Reply # 800901 on 800601
    Deleted user
    Annie Hill wroteAh but, honey chile, if you have a rake to the mast, as IMHO you should, the plumb bob plumb don't work.
    Well, with a slightly less radical mast rake, like mine, the aft edge of the partners are directly above the forward edge of the mast step. So the plumb bob works ok. I think my foremast is about 4˚ rake.
    Last modified: 17 Jan 2012 15:09 | Deleted user
  • 17 Jan 2012 12:14
    Reply # 800827 on 726309

    Or rake the boat by the same amount as the proposed mast rake until the mast step is made ... ?  Then the plumb bob would be useful for postion of the centre and for the plane of the top of the mast step.  Or would this be too complicated, whereas "By guess and by God" would probably do?  jds

  • 17 Jan 2012 08:15
    Reply # 800788 on 800601
    Jeff McFadden wrote: I can drop a plumb bob down through the center of it and center the mast step under it.


    Ah but, honey chile, if you have a rake to the mast, as IMHO you should, the plumb bob plumb don't work.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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