Redwing

  • 16 Mar 2019 13:34
    Reply # 7227295 on 644008
    Anonymous

    Graham,

    How does that work, tying the seatbelt webbing with a constrictor knot? The knot is in the webbing itself? Or is a piece of somewhat light line tied in a constrictor knot to lash the webbing to the batten?

    On AUKLET, batten parrels are 1/4 inch braided line with spiral plastic electrical wrap  around it – the loose stuff that is worked around the line and then slides freely. I'm not sure how much difference it makes, but it has not been a problem. The line is tied to the battens using double constrictor knots – a variation on a regular constrictor. Gorilla tape is wrapped two layers thick around the batten itself, and has been working well as a stop.

    Shemaya

  • 16 Mar 2019 10:32
    Reply # 7227187 on 644008

    I tie the aft end of my batten parrels to the battens with something called a constrictor knot.  It is illustrated on page 21 of JRA magazine #77 - June 2018.  It is attached just aft of the batten fendering, which in itself will hinder the knot sliding forwards, but the knot is also very good at holding on its own.  I use 50mm black seatbelt webbing and have no issues with friction.  I did try rope with black rubber hose over, but not only did they bind, the hose left black marks on the mast.  I find the seatbelt webbing quite slippery.

  • 14 Mar 2019 23:35
    Reply # 7224731 on 7222527
    Anonymous wrote:
    Gary wrote:

    Okay a saddle but a loop around the batten. I’ve been using 50mm webbing parcels but I feel these have caused a bit too much friction. So I’m thinking 6mm braid inside 12mm low pressure black poly pipe.

    Gary, I used 25mm webbing that was quite flexible and found that worked well.  I don't recommend the lengths of pipe: they will snag together in ways that defy comprehension!
    Thanks Annie I just happen to have a roll of 25mm webbing. :)
  • 14 Mar 2019 19:57
    Reply # 7222527 on 7218281
    Gary wrote:

    Okay a saddle but a loop around the batten. I’ve been using 50mm webbing parcels but I feel these have caused a bit too much friction. So I’m thinking 6mm braid inside 12mm low pressure black poly pipe.

    Gary, I used 25mm webbing that was quite flexible and found that worked well.  I don't recommend the lengths of pipe: they will snag together in ways that defy comprehension!
  • 14 Mar 2019 06:51
    Reply # 7218281 on 644008

    Okay a saddle but a loop around the batten. I’ve been using 50mm webbing parcels but I feel these have caused a bit too much friction. So I’m thinking 6mm braid inside 12mm low pressure black poly pipe.

  • 14 Mar 2019 05:43
    Reply # 7218236 on 644008

    Hi Gary,

    Paul is right, just burn a hole with a hot knife or soldering iron. Regarding the parrell itself I always take the line around the back of the batten from below, come out above and loop it back behind the batten from above to below. Then I splice the end to the standing part if laid rope , or knot it to the standing part with a bowline. I then put a stop in front of the rear loop to stop it sliding along the batten. This can be just by a screw or one of the saddles that you already have. My advice is do not rely on the saddle alone to hold the parrell, make sure the parrell is wrapped around the batten.

    All the best, David.

  • 14 Mar 2019 04:49
    Reply # 7218154 on 7216547
    Anonymous wrote:

    Regarding the saddle the rub is that it would not fit though the pocket, at least I don't think it would. It would have to be removed first for the batten to be slid out. The reason I'm thinking of saddles is I have not allowed a gap in the pockets and I'm not sure how I would seal the cloth edges if I cut holes.

    Gary, you can just burn holes with a soldiering iron. It will seal the edges for you.
  • 13 Mar 2019 11:03
    Reply # 7216547 on 644008

    Hi David, I had webbing loops for the battens before but really wasn't very happy with them visually and how they affected the sail. The last pocket being towards the middle of the sail was hard work as the sail had to be rolled to fit through the throat of the sewing machine. I had real trouble with the thread either tangling and jambing or the thread chaffing in the needle. Mostly caused by friction as I tried to feed the sail through the machine. These are samples of the webbing loops compared to the batten pocket.

    Regarding the saddle the rub is that it would not fit though the pocket, at least I don't think it would. It would have to be removed first for the batten to be slid out. The reason I'm thinking of saddles is I have not allowed a gap in the pockets and I'm not sure how I would seal the cloth edges if I cut holes.



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    Last modified: 13 Mar 2019 11:09 | Anonymous member
  • 13 Mar 2019 09:55
    Reply # 7216472 on 644008

    Gary, did you try to add batten pockets to a pre-existing sail? That's always been a very hard thing to do on a sail of any size, well done for achieving it. It's a major part of the reason why we now make our sails in the sequence: add panel/add batten pocket/add panel/add batten pocket and so on. Then only one panel, at most, has to be rolled and passed through the machine.

    I've found that it's enough to screw on a small knob cut from plastic bar, to stop the batten parrels from sliding forwards. A saddle would have to pass through the batten pocket.

  • 13 Mar 2019 09:26
    Reply # 7216420 on 644008

    Finally finished the batten pockets on the sail. The last one was the hardest. I think the big problem was trying to feed the sail through the machine. Friction and weight made it very frustrating.

    I am almost convinced it was harder to fit the batten pockets than it was to make the sail.

    I've been thinking about how to attach the batten parrels aft of the mast and I'm thinking of using stainless steel saddles. Any opinions on that?


    Now for the new sail cover which should be an absolute doddle after that job.

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