Split junk rig construction details

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  • 16 Dec 2016 09:42
    Reply # 4463023 on 4449841

    Hi Scott,

    Yes, on each batten the aft end of the jib pocket is lashed to the fore end of the main pocket and could be adjusted, but I have never found any need after initial setting up. I use 3mm line for everything, and use about 3 turns.

    I make the sails in sections, with the jibs being one section, the mains being another and the full length top panels being another section. This way the split is adjustable (if needed) at any point.

    It is easiest to make the split panels all parallel as if they are tapered as with a top panel then the split has to be a fixed width to make sure the jib luff, the main luff and the main leech are all tensioned at the same time. This was one of my many reasons to be reluctant to split the top panel.

    Hope this helps,

    Cheers, Slieve.


  • 15 Dec 2016 17:05
    Reply # 4461666 on 4451209
    Deleted user
    Slieve McGalliard wrote:

    Hi David,

     

    Are the jib and main panels sewn to each other via a full length batten pocket or tied to each other or is the main luff tied to the forward end of the batten leaving the jib leech batten pocket loose?........ No, the batten pockets are separate, and the gap adjustable.

     

     

     

    I'm assuming that the jib and main are connected via some sort of lashing?  Does anybody have a picture of a technique that worked?

    Also:  the uppermost split panel's top is connected to a full length panel.  How does the split there get adjusted?  Or is that the one spot where the split is set without potential for later tweaking?

    Last modified: 15 Dec 2016 17:06 | Deleted user
  • 12 Dec 2016 19:49
    Reply # 4455570 on 4449841

    Thank you, Edward and Slieve for your replies.  Making the model rig should keep me gainfully occupied for a while.  And thanks for the offer of further help if/when further need arises.  

    Cheers, Dave

  • 10 Dec 2016 11:02
    Reply # 4451209 on 4449841

    Hi David,

    Please see comments below in Italics.

    Hi, everyone.

    I've been following the various threads about the Split Junk Rig since I joined the JRA and having recently acquired a cheap Wayfarer dinghy hull on which to experiment rather than maybe wreck my slightly better condition one, I've started to modify it to fit an unstayed mast to........

    But the weather is turning too cold to do much outside, so I've being making a model split junk sail using Slieve's 45 degree shelf foot method......You should find it a worthwhile exercise. That has gone quite well, the camber has turned out very nicely and I've learned a bit more about sewing machines and tensions and the importance of being precise about setting up everything before engaging the "sew" button and also that there is a fair bit more to know about putting the whole sail together, which I didn't know until I started to do some sewing......'The truth of the pudding is in the eating!'.

    Such as.......

    Is the split between jib and main located aft of the mast or in front or split between? or does it make a difference ?.......Some photos seem to have it in front and others to the rear.......The luff of the main sail panels is supposed to line up with the centreline of the mast. The combined downhaul/ batten parrels should pull the rig to this position. Some earlier photos were a little loose.

    I've made up 3, ¼ scale jib panels, and am about to make up 3, ¼ scale main panels, again using the 45 degree shelf method , but I presume this time I don't use any sheeting angle so as to bring the leech of the main panels into the battens at the rear...... The main panels are simple cambered panels, tight at the luff and leech and baggy in the middle.

    But how are the jib and main panels attached to each other?.......The batten ends should be flush with the leech of the main panels. The luff end of the main batten pockets are tied off to the leech end of the jib batten pockets with the designed split set, and the luff end of the jib batten pockets should be tensioned to the front of the battens.

    I know the jib leech itself is free to fly loose due to the sheeting angle incorporated in the drafting method, but is the leech end of the jib batten pocket also loose or is it attached to the main luff batten pocket?........ The jib batten pockets are tubular, and a tight fit on the battens over their full length, as are the main batten pockets. The batten pockets are attached to each other, but with the preset gap.

    Are the jib and main panels sewn to each other via a full length batten pocket or tied to each other or is the main luff tied to the forward end of the batten leaving the jib leech batten pocket loose?........ No, the batten pockets are separate, and the gap adjustable.

    Also, I was thinking of using webbing as the reinforcing method on the jib luff and main luff and leech.....What have other people people done to reinforce these areas?.... I prefer to use a bolt rope within the tabling so that the sail can rotate around the taut bolt rope when changing from tack to tack..I presume that the jib leech is reinforced by using (not too heavy) tabling.........I prefer simple tabling, but with the edges not parallel with the thread line of the material. I always place the thread line parallel to the leech as in normal sail-makers practice.

    My knowledge of sewing and sailmaking has been zero up to this and what I know about sailmaking has basically been derived from the website, especially Slieve's and Arne's files, and also Emiliano Marino's "Sailmaker's Apprentice", which I can highly recommend....... Good luck with your experiments. You should fined it an interesting exercise.

    Thanks for any replies which people might give.......

    Regards, Dave.....

    Cheers, Slieve

    PS. Hi Edward, your posting appeared as I was writing my reply. I wouldn't rust to say too much about the jib mini battens (yet) as it may cause confusion, and may only be a 'racing' idea. By the way I have some mini batten material to discuss with you.

    Cheers, Slieve.

    PPS. I'm off to the grandchildren shortly so know your problems Edward. Cheers, S


    Last modified: 10 Dec 2016 11:16 | Anonymous member
  • 10 Dec 2016 10:38
    Reply # 4451196 on 4449841
    Deleted user

    Hi David,

    Welcome to the Split-junk sub-world  

    I will have trouble replying to all your questions as surrounded by grand children, and rest of family about to descend on us    So in haste:-


    1.  I have the main luff as close as possible to the mast  

    IMHO the split must be ahead of the mast, to take the mast itself

    and the bump in the main, out of the equation  

    2.  The whole sail, jib and main panels must be properly tensionned along each batten  

    The way i did this is to attach the jib leech to the main luff along each batten  

    One lesson we learnt is the sail sets so much better using  batten pockets rather than sail ties  

    We are also experimenting with little very flexible battens in the midle of each jib panel  

    And attaching these to the luff of the corresponding main panel  

    A bit fiddly, but it seems to steady the leech, and create a slightly better profile in the jib  


    For better explanation, please come for a sail if that is possible  

    Amiina is in the marina all winter and raring to go any time after 15/01/17  

    Good luck and please ask Slieve or  myself anything else we can help you with  

    Cheers

    Edward


    Last modified: 11 Dec 2016 12:37 | Deleted user
  • 09 Dec 2016 15:14
    Message # 4449841

    Hi, everyone.

    I've been following the various threads about the Split Junk Rig since I joined the JRA and having recently acquired a cheap Wayfarer dinghy hull on which to experiment rather than maybe wreck my slightly better condition one, I've started to modify it to fit an unstayed mast to........

    But the weather is turning too cold to do much outside, so I've being making a model split junk sail using Slieve's 45 degree shelf foot method....... That has gone quite well, the camber has turned out very nicely and I've learned a bit more about sewing machines and tensions and the importance of being precise about setting up everything before engaging the "sew" button and also that there is a fair bit more to know about putting the whole sail together, which I didn't know until I started to do some sewing.......

    Such as.......

    Is the split between jib and main located aft of the mast or in front or split between? or does it make a difference ?.......Some photos seem to have it in front and others to the rear.......

    I've made up 3, ¼ scale jib panels, and am about to make up 3, ¼ scale main panels, again using the 45 degree shelf method , but I presume this time I don't use any sheeting angle so as to bring the leech of the main panels into the battens at the rear......

    But how are the jib and main panels attached to each other?.......

     I know the jib leech itself is free to fly loose due to the sheeting angle incorporated in the drafting method, but is the leech end of the jib batten pocket also loose or is it attached to the main luff batten pocket?........

    Are the jib and main panels sewn to each other via a full length batten pocket or tied to each other or is the main luff tied to the forward end of the batten leaving the jib leech batten pocket loose?........

    Also, I was thinking of using webbing as the reinforcing method on the jib luff and main luff and leech.....What have other people people done to reinforce these areas?......I presume that the jib leech is reinforced by using (not too heavy) tabling.........

    My knowledge of sewing and sailmaking has been zero up to this and what I know about sailmaking has basically been derived from the website, especially Slieve's and Arne's files, and also Emiliano Marino's "Sailmaker's Apprentice", which I can highly recommend.......

    Thanks for any replies which people might give.......

    Regards, Dave......


    Last modified: 09 Dec 2016 15:23 | Anonymous member
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