Split Cruising Rig- Pearson 10M refit

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  • 05 May 2016 18:03
    Reply # 4004772 on 4004261

    I'd expect such a boat to need only two reefs in F5, so the next two split panels should still be working well.

    Yes, it does make sense to put just a little rounding on the top and bottom edges of the top two panels, if only to keep the luff and leech tight. As to how much - I don't know, I'll leave that to those with direct experience of the split rig.

    Last modified: 05 May 2016 18:05 | Anonymous member
  • 05 May 2016 17:45
    Reply # 4004710 on 4004261
    Deleted user

    Thank you for the posting tip, David.  I edited it, and it works much better. 

    Do you think that it makes sense to have some camber in the highest panels?  I'd still like the option to make some windward progress even in F5.

    Last modified: 06 May 2016 20:05 | Deleted user
  • 05 May 2016 16:08
    Reply # 4004374 on 4004261
    Scott Dufour wrote:

    http://www.junkrigassociation.org/resources/MemberAlbums/
    32459316/Mudita%20-%20Pearson%2010M/Pearson%2010M%20
    with%20New%20
    Poppy%20~56%20sq%20m.jpg

    http://www.junkrigassociation.org/resources/MemberAlbums/
    32459316/Mudita%20-%20Pearson%2010M/Pearson%2010M%2
    0Isometric.jpg

    Hi Junkies,

    First, I'd like to thank you all for the generosity you share on this site.  I'm impressed by the civility, camaraderie, and general tone of everything on here.  And then there's the quality and humility of knowledge - which is even more impressive.

    Camber-wise:  does it make sense to make the bottom two panes at something like 10%, then panels 3 & 4 maybe 6%, and go flat-ish for the last 3?  I want plenty of windward drive in light airs, but oodles of control when reefed way down.

    I attempted to attach some links to images above - I hope it worked. 

     

    Hi Scott,

    When you want to give the full link, it's best to put in some shift/returns, as I've done above - then the rest of the text doesn't bleed out of the frame. Better still, when you make a link, put some short descriptive text in the Link text box, and the link itself in the Website URL box, like this: Pearson 10M with split rig

    I have little experience of split rigs, but my experience with other junk rigs leads me to agree with decreasing the camber as you go up the sail, for offshore use. However, I think you can make the first three panels at full camber.

  • 05 May 2016 15:19
    Message # 4004261
    Deleted user

    Pearson 10M with 55sq m of Poppy's Rig

    Pearson 10M General Plan and Layout

     

    Hi Junkies,

    First, I'd like to thank you all for the generosity you share on this site.  I'm impressed by the civility, camaraderie, and general tone of everything on here.  And then there's the quality and humility of knowledge - which is even more impressive.

    I'm currently beginning a refit of a 1979 Pearson 10M - she will be a full-time cruiser starting in the northeast USA and leading anywhere she feels like going.  Offshore work will be in the offing.  Oh - and my sailing experience to date is really a couple hundred hours of sheltered water in a CS17 (http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/core-sound-17/)  I built in my basement.  So... I ain't all salty or nuthin'.

    The standing rigging is ready for replacement, so now's the time to Junk it.

    Slieve generously sent me drawings of Poppy's planned new rig and some suggestions. Following his lead, I scaled and slapped them over the Pearson 10M plan.  55 sq. m, single rig, 7 panel.

    The bottom 4, maybe 5 panels are split, top 2 (maybe 3) panels are full. 

    Camber-wise:  does it make sense to make the bottom two panes at something like 10%, then panels 3 & 4 maybe 6%, and go flat-ish for the last 3?  I want plenty of windward drive in light airs, but oodles of control when reefed way down.

    I attempted to attach some links to images above - I hope it worked. 

     

    Last modified: 05 May 2016 17:43 | Deleted user
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