Forgot password

Ingeborg, Arne's Marieholm IF

  • 05 Aug 2018 22:45
    Quote
    Reply # 6414743 on 6414646
    Anonymous member
    Frank Schapitz wrote:I was against screwing direct into the mast step because of water soaking in and letting the wood rot away from inside. But after I saw a picture how they build the mast step on the newbridge coromandels I'm not that afraid anymore ....
    If you follow this method, I don't think you'll have any issues of water penetrating the wood.
  • 05 Aug 2018 20:34
    Quote
    Reply # 6414646 on 3032430
    Anonymous member

    Arne,

    thank you for your answer. I'm curious to see a picture. I was against screwing direct into the mast step because of water soaking in and letting the wood rot away from inside. But after I saw a picture how they build the mast step on the newbridge coromandels I'm not that afraid anymore ....

    Last modified: 05 Aug 2018 20:35 | Anonymous member
  • 28 Jul 2018 19:09
    Quote
    Reply # 6402551 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Frank,

    yes, I drilled an 8-10mm hole right through the mast tube, about 150mm above the mast step. Through this hole I put a 250mm long rod. Then I screwed on two steel hoops to the plywood maststep and finally made a Dyneema lashing between the rod and the hoops. That mast will never jump out of that step!

    Arne

    I'll take a photo next time I'm on board.

    Last modified: 28 Jul 2018 19:10 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 28 Jul 2018 16:40
    Quote
    Reply # 6402434 on 3661481
    Anonymous member
    Anonymous wrote:
    The mast sole is just a flat plate, firmly attached to the hull. It slopes very gently aft to aid draining. The mast step collar, being a little smaller than the sole, is then trial-fastened with two screws, and the mast is then stepped. If the mast rake is correct, I just add more screws (and/or epoxy) to secure the collar and seal any screw holes.  

    Hi Arne,

    do you use an additional holding-down bolt or wedges to secure the mast inside the collar? We build our mast step in a similar way to yours. I'm scratching my head for days how to secure the mast without screwing metal into the mast step/ plywood to avoid possible rot.
  • 01 May 2018 00:23
    Quote
    Reply # 6127130 on 3032430
    Anonymous member

    Lovely photos Arne.  That sail looks quite big enough to me!  I went sailing aboard a bermudian-rigged IF the other day (exactly the same as yours but built here).  The winds were light and we only had the working jib bent on, but the boat slipped along so sweetly, with just the slightest touch of weather helm (I was holding the tiller with two fingers).  I've always loved these boats and that sail increased my affection.  I might not be able to live permanently on one though, unless I had a storage shed ashore!
  • 30 Apr 2018 21:42
    Quote
    Reply # 6126913 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Thanks, Annie.
    Luckily, I found that I could throttle down the Tohatsu quite a lot before the speed dropped to 5.0kts, so it must be that the speed-drag curve is rapidly getting steeper over 5kts (theoretical hull speed is 6.0kts). 

    I guess 5kts will be the cruising speed under motor  -  that is after all a decent sailing speed for such a small craft.

    Arne.
  • 30 Apr 2018 21:34
    Quote
    Reply # 6126906 on 6125906
    Anonymous member
    Arne Kverneland wrote:At 6.05m it only lets her go at 5.5kts with the 6hp Tohatsu, compared to 6.3kts when my Johanna (wl=6.8m plus overhang) was pushed by a 9.9hp Yamaha.
    Arne, I have never, in my life, owned a boat that would motor faster than 5 kt.  I find it reassuring that your Ingeborg will motor at 5.5 kt with the same engine that I'm fitting to SibLim.  She'll probably end up faster than Fantail with her 10hp diesel engine!!
  • 30 Apr 2018 10:04
    Quote
    Reply # 6125906 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    A chilly April outing in Ingeborg.

    Yesterday a friend, Erik, sailing a big ‘Storm 19’ dinghy from Swallow Boats, called me and wanted to meet on the fjord for a little photo session. That suited me fine as I was on my way to the harbour.  Hopefully, this link to this Google photo folder lets you see the result.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/WDNAXke4NV2nxMLJ6


    The wind was 10-12 knots, I guess, just below needing the first reef. On the photo below we were making 6.2kts. It is amazing how my boats have (had) different characters. While the ballast-less  Frøken Sørensen would have been nervous, but fast in the conditions, Ingeborg  just leans over and romps along. Her 50 kg mast and around 40kg sail seem to be no problem, as she attains just below 5 kts when close-hauled. Her short waterline length with no overhangs puts limits on the top speed, though. At 6.05m it only lets her go at 5.5kts with the 6hp Tohatsu, compared to 6.3kts when my Johanna (wl=6.8m plus overhang) was pushed by a 9.9hp Yamaha.

    Still, Ingeborg is a lovely boat, and probably beats every boat I have had when close-hauled in some wind. I sometimes wish I had given her a 40sqm sail for the light summer winds. Compared to when sailing Malena (wl 6.00m, 1400kg, 32sqm), it feels like sailing with one reef...

    A final thing: The FUP line now works fine without getting jammed as the sail is furled. Still, on a sail with heavier battens, I can see Graham’s point in having a two-part FUP, to minimise friction.

    Arne

     



    Last modified: 14 May 2018 12:27 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 18 Apr 2018 01:28
    Quote
    Reply # 6108346 on 3032430
    Anonymous member

    Hi Arne.  Your drawing looks intriguing and I will have to think about that.  I was intending to take the upper FUP straight from A to C, then forward to D like the lower FUP.  You may be right that the small saddles were the cause of the problem.  It was easy to take up the slack for the lower two panels, but after that the line seemed to get trapped by the nested battens, which fall randomly, one this side, one that side etc.  I think the FUP has a lot of potential though and is worth sorting out.  You can stop fan ups when doing intentional gybes, by hauling in the sheet and doing a controlled gybe, but that still leaves accidental gybes in rough conditions, which are not uncommon when rolling heavily under self steering in rough seas, or in sudden wind shifts..  Besides, it will be nice to gybe with a slack sheet when you wish to.
  • 17 Apr 2018 16:21
    Quote
    Reply # 6107499 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Graham,

    Is this what you have in mind, or was the upper FUP also meant to be passed over blocks C and D (instead of B and F)? I think the way I have drawn it, will give the best guarantee against friction traps. Anyway, I think the main friction problem stemmed from you using those small steel saddles.

    For my own part, I will try out my modified, single FUP system. If I still get friction problems, I will change it to your version.

     

    Arne
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software