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Ingeborg, Arne's Marieholm IF

  • 21 Jun 2016 23:58
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    Reply # 4090641 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Second sail in Ingeborg

    Today we had the second test sail of Ingeborg. In a stronger F3  -  F4 she performed fairly well, but not spectacularly so. She does need to be slipped and have her bottom repainted. In addition, I think she had a bit too much weather helm this time. Studying my photos of the sail, I see I can shift the sail quite a bit forward, at least 20cm without having to move batten parrels. I just need to replace the standing tack parrel, which was too short.

    We did a few gybes with full sail, and so far there has not been any sheet tangle. The sail itself sets well, after I adjusted the HK parrels of the two lowest panels. Still, there is a bit adjustment left to do with the sheetlets: I always tie them on with a bit too much rope, so I can shorten them until I am happy.

    I do feel I am getting better control now: A good indication is that I sailed Ingeborg right back into her berth, just as I use(d) to with the others.

    Arne

    (the album has been lost)

     

     

    Last modified: 06 Apr 2023 13:35 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 18 Jun 2016 10:24
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    Reply # 4082968 on 4082217
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Steve Liebig wrote:

    Masterfully done, Arne!


    Thanks Steve.

    This was actually the first sail I have made for myself which is based on one from my line of master sail designs   -  the one with AR=1.90. It is fairly low and broad, but I like it that way. There are not many rigs which spread 35sqm and still lets one pass under a 10m bridge  -  without setting a jib on a bowsprit.

    Last modified: 19 Jun 2016 07:51 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 18 Jun 2016 10:14
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    Reply # 4082959 on 4082233
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Phil Brown wrote:

    It must be so satisfying to get to this point.  Will you use a pair of rolling hitches with shoemaker splices to attach you lazy Jacks line to your topping lift? Also what knot(s) do use use to  attach the aft end of you batten and Hong Kong parrels to the battens.?

    Phil


    Phil,

    I will basically use the same style of sail catcher as used on Frøken Sørensen (that black bridle). That involves hoops tied to the topping lifts with rolling hitches and shoemaker's splices and also a hoop tied to the boom.  This is one reason why I like to use 3-strand rope when I can  -  so easy to splice one way or the other.

    The photo below shows how the HK parrel and batten parrel is tied on. This was an early version. I later cut the line for HK parrel longer to let me secure it with a trucker's knot. That gives a 3-part purchace and is easier to adjust with load on it. The main thing is the hose-clamp, which secures two hoops; one for the HK parrel and one for the batten parrel.
  • 18 Jun 2016 02:30
    Quote
    Reply # 4082233 on 3032430
    Deleted user

    It must be so satisfying to get to this point.  Will you use a pair of rolling hitches with shoemaker splices to attach you lazy Jacks line to your topping lift? Also what knot(s) do use use to  attach the aft end of you batten and Hong Kong parrels to the battens.?

    Phil
  • 18 Jun 2016 01:05
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    Reply # 4082217 on 3032430
    Anonymous

    Masterfully done, Arne!
  • 18 Jun 2016 00:01
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    Reply # 4082170 on 3032430
    Anonymous member
    Looks great, Arne.  Well done - she will be an absolute delight, I'm sure.
  • 17 Jun 2016 22:45
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    Reply # 4082105 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Tonight, after a long day of tying up the last batten parrels, HK parrels , THP, YHP, sheetlets and wotnot, I had the first little sail on the bay in perfect test condition (F1-F2).

     

    It looks very promising, so far (hardly enough wind to inflate the panels properly), and the balance was as perfect as one can dream up  -  a one-finger-light weather helm when fully close-hauled.

    Open photo below and step forward for three more.

     

     

    Cheers, Arne


    PS, 17.6. The use of 60mm ball-bearing blocks from Selden for all the halyard blocks has been a grand success. In combination with using only 8mm halyard (5-part) this makes hoisting the sail quite light. I also took care of aligning the blocks on the yard with those on the mast top. The low friction means that the sail comes down very quickly as well -  I must pass the halyard over the winch for braking to save the gloves...

    Last modified: 01 Aug 2016 16:55 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 08 Jun 2016 21:59
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    Reply # 4064532 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    One thing we do not have in Stavanger is high tidal differences, so scrubbing the bottom on low water is not an option. Luckily, my boat-club has recently placed a "service pontoon" next to out DIY workshop. Not having time for a proper slipping now, today I made use of the pontoon and favourable wind for scrubbing. It will have to do for a while. The yard was tied on today, using lashings only. To hedge my bet I fitted a couple of strips of non-slip tape on the yard.

    Arne
  • 20 Mar 2016 13:18
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    Reply # 3892027 on 3032430
    Deleted user

    Simple, clean and ingenious.

    In other words, typical Arne
  • 20 Mar 2016 12:45
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    Reply # 3892009 on 3032430
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Adding interior to Ingeborg, winter 2016

    Ingeborg has a very simple interior, more for camping than for cruising. The problem when wanting to improve things to her, is that everything looks so neat and well done, after the last owner refurbished her. Therefore I have been afraid of making a mess of it. All her panels are teak-faced, but I didn’t want to buy more teak for her. Finally, I decided to try to use “my standard plywood”; 15mm concrete mould plywood, of fir, and then stain it to look like teak. The result of my first attempt, the fold-down table, was so good that I was encouraged to do more. A tip if you are to stain fir, spruce or birch to teak colour: Start with a coat of varnish, then sand when dry to remove any raised grain. Then add the stain, and finally top it with two coats of varnish. I used 1-pot urethane (oil-based) floor varnish.

    Just open this photo and step your way forward (21 photos with captions).

    Arne

    PS: To have control of the position of the photos in the album, I made a “shadow album” in my computer and gave their filenames prefixes, z1000000 01, z1000000 02 etc. I could even press in one photo between 03 and 04 by calling it 03.5. This worked well.

     (Sorry, lost album)

    Last modified: 06 Apr 2023 13:33 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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