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Mast. Would this be OK?

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  • 16 Oct 2025 17:16
    Reply # 13552951 on 13552160
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Here is Medina sail plan showing the geometric centre as designed, in case someone would like to help Andrew with a proposed junk sail with forward raking mast.


    If it were mine and if I were to chose SJR I think it would look like this

    This shows a SJR sail of approximately the same area as the original rig, with the geometric centre (CoE) aligned with the original centre. The centre line of the mast is shown.

    This sail area could be scaled up or down a little, depending on the hight of Andrew's new mast. (Note Andrew, the mast height must be at least as high as the top of the yard, and slightly more would be better. Also, the distance of the boom down to the deck, at the mast, needs to be at least 50% of the width of a panel (or slightly more would be better) in order for the spanned running parrel downhauls to function in the way Slieve specifies. The balance shown here is 33%. Mast rake on this rig  is not recommended.

    Note, as this is a smallish vessel, the helm balance can be fine tuned by crew shifting weight from the rear of the cockpit to the front, so there is a tiny amount of wriggle room as to where the mast is placed.

    ...............................................

    If Andrew decides to have a relatively high balanced contiguous sail, with some forward rake as suggested by David, there is possibly of even more wriggle room in mast placement, because the amount of forward rake can be varied a little at the design stage, and once that angle has been chosen and mast rake fixed, there is also the ability to move the sail forward or aft a little, to vary the balance a little if further adjustment is needed.

    (Neither of these adjustments (mast rake, and fore/aft slinging of the sail) are possible with SJR.)


    So there is something to think about.

    Hopefully someone else will chime in with a proposed contigous sail plan to suit this boat.

    Last modified: 17 Oct 2025 04:23 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 16 Oct 2025 10:42
    Reply # 13552838 on 13552498
    Anonymous wrote:
    Andrew wrote:

    The only thing that is putting me off is that I don't want to move the mast forward much, because there's a lovely hatch there so I'm hoping with a SJR and balance of 35% it'll be OK. I can't ask Slieve because he's away on holiday I believe.


    Is forward rake a possibility, if you need to shift the centre of area forward (whatever the type of JR that you would prefer)?
    What I could do is move the mast 6" forward, with a little forward rake. Maybe that would be enough. I don't know nearly enough to be able to judge.
  • 15 Oct 2025 14:52
    Reply # 13552498 on 13552444
    Andrew wrote:

    The only thing that is putting me off is that I don't want to move the mast forward much, because there's a lovely hatch there so I'm hoping with a SJR and balance of 35% it'll be OK. I can't ask Slieve because he's away on holiday I believe.


    Is forward rake a possibility, if you need to shift the centre of area forward (whatever the type of JR that you would prefer)?
  • 15 Oct 2025 12:12
    Reply # 13552444 on 13552287
    Anonymous wrote:

    If you really can order a bare tube without any cutouts, then you've hit paydirt! Are there any more such tubes available for other JRA members to buy, or is this a one-off opportunity?

    Weaverbird, a 23ft heavier, stiffer boat, has a 177mm dia x 3mm wall tapered tube from Nedal for a mast. This 165mm x 3mm tube from Norsk Hydro will be just fine for a 20ft boat.

    Yes indeed, I believe they are quite happy to supply without cutouts. Not a one-off. The delivery unfortunately is £150 but It's not the sort of thing you can pop in the back of the car!

    I've just had another email saying that Jes Bates used one on Mwera, with some pictures. It looks lovely.

    I've also been watching Jes's videos, which are very useful, as Mwera is about the same size as my Minxy.

    I could always drive to Bridgend with my boat trailer and pick one up, but Minxy comes out on the 28th so I'll have to make a quick decision!

    The only thing that is putting me off is that I don't want to move the mast forward much, because there's a lovely hatch there so I'm hoping with a SJR and balance of 35% it'll be OK. I can't ask Slieve because he's away on holiday I believe.


    Last modified: 15 Oct 2025 12:23 | Anonymous member
  • 14 Oct 2025 21:01
    Reply # 13552287 on 13552160

    If you really can order a bare tube without any cutouts, then you've hit paydirt! Are there any more such tubes available for other JRA members to buy, or is this a one-off opportunity?

    Weaverbird, a 23ft heavier, stiffer boat, has a 177mm dia x 3mm wall tapered tube from Nedal for a mast. This 165mm x 3mm tube from Norsk Hydro will be just fine for a 20ft boat.

  • 14 Oct 2025 19:14
    Reply # 13552250 on 13552215
    Anonymous wrote:

    This would be perfect - if it didn't have the 600mm cutout. Above and below that, there's plenty of usable length. So the question is: how do you make a strong joining piece? I think I'd try to work something out with a metre length of thick walled 6in tube, suitably padded out to fit into the 165mm tube.  

    Thank you David. I found out I can order it without the cutout. I was just a bit worried that it wouldn't be thick enough. I don't really understand why it would need a join, unless you're meaning because of the cutout. I think without the cutout, 8m is high enough with 1200 from the deck down to the base.
  • 14 Oct 2025 17:58
    Reply # 13552215 on 13552160

    This would be perfect - if it didn't have the 600mm cutout. Above and below that, there's plenty of usable length. So the question is: how do you make a strong joining piece? I think I'd try to work something out with a metre length of thick walled 6in tube, suitably padded out to fit into the 165mm tube.  

  • 14 Oct 2025 16:00
    Message # 13552160

    I found this aluminium lamp post, available from the depot in Wales for around £500.

    Would it be sturdy enough for my 20' Hunter Medina or is it altogether too flimsy?

    3.3mm wall thickness and tapered from 1800mm upwards.

    If not, how do I work out if something is strong enough? Is it just "suck it and see"?

    Thanks.

    1 file
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