Maxi 77 junk rig conversion

  • 30 May 2024 22:25
    Reply # 13363824 on 13363422
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Graham wrote:Hey Paul, that is a beautifully-setting sail.  I'd be interested to know what your camber is.  I am interested in the relationship between camber and displacement, and what people like Arne, Paul Thompson etc, think is the ideal ratio.  I'm envious, looking at all these beautiful junk sails.  I'm looking for a cheap, suitable, fibreglass boat between 26-28' (8-9m), with moderate displacement, as I do not think my current boat is right for the project.


    Camber and sail area versus displacement.


    Graham, I cannot say that I have found that ideal general ratio between camber and displacement. I used to say that heavy displacement boats should have more camber than the others, but these days I am not so sure. Maybe on auxiliary rigs mainly meant for reaching and running...


    For my own boats I have settled on 8% (real, measured) camber, as this has proven to both be close-winded and easy to keep in that groove between luffing and stalling. In addition, this modest camber (compared to genoas with 12-15%) works well as the wind picks up. Remember, the camber in a junksail cannot be adjusted under way. What can be easily adjusted is the sail area, so I generally rig generously. This extra sail area gives a nice long luff (including the 60-70° head) for improved upwind performance, but also spreads out a big nice area for running before.
    Then, while the Bermudan sailors flatten their sails in rising winds, I drop a panel (..or three...).

    Paul S. has demonstrated this beyond any doubt with his generously rigged Maxi. That sail was originally meant for a much heavier boat.

    Soo, if I after all dare present a rig size and camber strategy, it may look about like this:

    ·         Decide how tall and heavy mast(s) the boat can carry in the conditions it is likely to meet. The answer depends on what material the mast is to be made of. This again depends on what is available at a tolerable cost. I try to keep the mast below 3% of the boat’s weight.

    ·         Then, rig as big a sail as possible.

    ·         As said, I stick with the 8% camber in the lower panels, as this is easy to make with the barrel cut method (plus Amateur Method B). The top panels are made progressively flatter, but never completely flat (..the top panel on Paul’s Maxi has a 44mm Round at both the yard and top batten...).

    I hope this makes some sense...

    Cheers,
    Arne


    Last modified: 31 May 2024 07:17 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 30 May 2024 09:25
    Reply # 13363436 on 13226713
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Graham, I too would like to learn what the camber is, although I guess I have a clue;  8% (+/- 1%).


    You see, that sail is a direct 1:1 copy of Ketil Greve’s sail on his Kelt 8.50, Boudicca.
    This sail was again a modified version of that on my Ingeborg, with the yard angle lowered from 70 to 60°. The four lower panels on Ingeborg and Boudicca are identical, with each panel cut with 250mm Round to achieve those 8% camber.


    I guess Paul S has made the forward batten pockets a bit longer than those on Boudicca, to let him further increase the mast balance.


    In my recently re-written version of Chapter 5 of TCPJR, there is a complete set of sailplans for Ingeborg, with all dimensions.

    Arne


    Last modified: 30 May 2024 09:29 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 30 May 2024 07:07
    Reply # 13363422 on 13363027
    Paul wrote:

    Ups, you are right! I just dully translated the german expression "Backbordbug" to "port tack", but it is the other way round. Thanks for clearification, I corrected my post below!


    The foto shows the position of sail I mean.


    Hey Paul, that is a beautifully-setting sail.  I'd be interested to know what your camber is.  I am interested in the relationship between camber and displacement, and what people like Arne, Paul Thompson etc, think is the ideal ratio.  I'm envious, looking at all these beautiful junk sails.  I'm looking for a cheap, suitable, fibreglass boat between 26-28' (8-9m), with moderate displacement, as I do not think my current boat is right for the project.
  • 29 May 2024 17:40
    Reply # 13363188 on 13362263
    Paul wrote:

    and some more.

    Ilvy overtook all boats on those fotos that day. All of them, close hauled, beam reach, broad reach, running! Though I am more of a cruiser than a racer, that was just amazing. It was a steady slaughter, with a cup of coffee in my hand and many dropped jaws left behind.

    Hi Paul,

    Your rig looks great! Tacking back and forth using only one hand on the tiller is one of my personal favorite features of the junk rig. Maybe giant deck-sweeping genoas are fun for racers, but not for me.

  • 29 May 2024 15:36
    Reply # 13363139 on 13226713
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Paul, as for getting the pointing angles symmetric or not, there are two more noise factors plying in:

    1.     If the batten parrels are slack (worst with wooden masts with some taper.), the sail will ‘believe’ it has been sheeted in more on sb. tack.

    2.     The sheeting point should be asymmetric to make the sail swing symmetrically back and forth when tacking. How much?
    Excactly...

    ..good luck with that...

    Arne


    Last modified: 29 May 2024 15:37 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 29 May 2024 10:51
    Reply # 13363027 on 13226713

    Ups, you are right! I just dully translated the german expression "Backbordbug" to "port tack", but it is the other way round. Thanks for clearification, I corrected my post below!


    The foto shows the position of sail I mean.


    1 file
    Last modified: 29 May 2024 10:54 | Anonymous member
  • 29 May 2024 09:57
    Reply # 13363023 on 13226713
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Paul,

    I am confused.
    If the sail rides at the port side of the mast, then sailing on the port tack means that the mast is on the leeside of the sail, right?

    Arne

  • 29 May 2024 09:16
    Reply # 13363016 on 13226713

    Thanks, Annie and Arne, for your kind words and suggestions.

    Yesterday we crossed Hanö bay, dead running for hours at and above hull speed with 6.5 - 7 kn. Now we officially reached the swedish scaers.

    Annie: I'll try out in the next days.

    Arne: The measurements I will take on the next miles. I will try to increase the mast balance even more, as Ilvy shows a bit of weather helm (only slightly). Without a wind angle sensor I can only guess on the good or bad tack, as 10° off cannot be told for sure with just a windex. I almost don't dare to tell, as it could be really a wrong observation: I think we are pointing a bit higher on starboard tack (mast windward of the sail), and are a bit faster at that tack. However, this is merely a rough guess, really!


    Last modified: 29 May 2024 10:55 | Anonymous member
  • 28 May 2024 20:13
    Reply # 13362764 on 13226713
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Paul, I’m very happy on your behalf!

    It is quite a relief to see when a sail design turns out to work well. In this case, it was not a big surprise, since it is a 1:1 copy of Boudicca’s sail. However, Ilvy’s sail seems to be set with more mast balance.


    I have a few questions for you, so I can ‘finalise’ the design of that rig:

    ·        Could you measure the horizontal distance from the luff of the sail at work to the middle of the mast section? In other words  -  what is the current mast balance?

    ·        Have you found a considerable difference in pointing angle on port or sb. tack?

    ·        Could you measure the actual max camber in one of the lower panels?

    I hope to get rid of the last traces of fear for big mast balance, by busting the myth of the bad tack, even with rather high values of that balance...

    Anyway, keep up the great journey!

    Arne

    http://goo.gl/khii3l


    Last modified: 28 May 2024 20:14 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 28 May 2024 06:22
    Reply # 13362448 on 13226713

    Raising and lowering sail in a chop is alway a bit fraught.  There is, of course, no reason to ease the sheet to reef.  Instead of being directly head to wind, I usually have the wind about 45 degrees off the bow which means the sail hangs out more to one side.  When making sail, don't let the sheet off completely, just give it enough slack that you can haul up the sail without too much energy being wasted.  Ease it out again at each batten, or in between, as it suits you.  When you are raising the sail, you can haul in the YHP every now and then to stop the yard thrashing about.  I suspect your tolerance levels for all this behaviour will increase as you get used to the rig.

    In these conditions, it's sometimes worth reefing incrementally, and adjusting the sheet fairly often rather than dropping the sail all at one time, if you are intending to motor with the sail down.  I would be inclined to keep up the top two or three panels all the time, in a seaway, to keep things steadier.

    I don't have a boom gallows either and think it would be impossible to fit one on the extreme camber of  FanShi's deck.  However, I have two lengths of Dyneema fitted with small carabiners that clip to the end of the boom and the deck stanchions.  These steady the sail surprisingly well and are especially appreciated in the summer with all the power boat wakes!

    I love the colour of your sail, by the way!

    Last modified: 28 May 2024 06:23 | Anonymous member
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